capnjonny 

Hey gang,
The old Cap'n could use a little help/ advice here reguarding my latest build, a 1985 Pinarello Montello.

As you can see from the photos I finally finished the paint - 2 part primer over chrome frame plus automotive primer followed by Rustoleum Sunrise Red acrylic enamel, decals, and 2 part poly clear.

Now for the fun part. Ihis is a high end bike and I was hoping to kit it out with all campy hardware. I installed Campy dual pivot brakes, tripple crank, and "Racing Tripple Rear derailleur.

Now for the problems. I have a set of Campy Aero levers with white hoods but the hoods are cracked . I have another pair of hoods but they are a different stile and don't fit so I changed the brakes to the ones pictured, so no longer all Campy.

Next, I swapped the standard campy front derailleur I originally planed to use with a Campy double, which didn't work with the bottom bracket spindle, for a Shimano 105 unit designed for the tripple crank I fitted instead.

The rear dropouts are spaced at 135 mm so I figured I would use a 9 speed Shimano hyperglide 11-25 cassette ( I also have a 12-28 tooth cassette I can use) mounted on a pair of Velocity wheels and a pair of new Sun Race 9 speed bar end shifters we had in the shop.

After assembling everything I discovered that the indixing was no good at all. A little research revealed that the "Racing Triple " rear derailleur is 8 speed.

Oh, one more thing, The velocity wheels are built for 130 mm dropouts. When in the dropouts there is about a 4 mm gap. If I tighten the Skewer to pull in the chain stays the wheel with a 9 speed cassette seems to work, no binding and it centers in the frame. The same issue is at the front. 4 mm gap which I can take out by tightening the skewer. Is this a bad idea?

What to do?
1 keep the bar end shifters and tripple crank and find a 9 speed replacement for the rear Derailleur, probably a long cage to avoid chain wrap problems and hope the indexing works.
2 keep the 8 speed rear derailleur and look for indexing 8 speed downtube shifters or bar end shifters
3 Give up on the Campy drivetrain and go Shimano everything. hopefully including a pair of 9 speed brifters.
4 Get another set of wheels that fit in the 135 mm dropouts with a 10 speed cassette, and mix and match components with 10 speed Brifters and a double chain ring
5 change the cassette to an 8 speed, ditch the SR bar ends for shimano or Suntour friction bar ends or friction downtube shifters.

Talk to me!

P.S. the frame is 53 cm. should I be using a longer Stem. In the photos both stem and seat post are set to max height.

icemilkcoffee 

The Racing-T Campy RD won't work with the Shimano compatible bar-ends. You need a Shimano SIS/brifter-compatible 7-10 sp RD.

noobinsf 

Nice job on the paint!

If it were me, I would get a long cage 9-speed era 105 or Ultegra to match with those bar ends. I prefer bar ends to brifters because you don't have to worry about indexing the front shifts. I don't know anything about mix and match shimergo drivetrains, but there are plenty of folks on the forums who do that and can advise what do/don't play nice together.

SJX426 

Pinarello Montello component morphing - Bike Forums

GrayJay

135mm dropout spacing is not typical for vintage road bikes, usually only used on MTB hubs. A 1984 frame would have originally been 6/7speed 126mm width so your frame may have been previously accidentally damaged or intentionally cold set to the wider MTB spacing. You might want to check to verify if that the dropout are both still aligned to the frame, or if one side has been cold set out of alignment. Using the skewer to squeeze the frame to 130mm width hub will work, just more of a hassle to get the wheel in/out of the frame. You could cold set the frame to 130mm to better fit road hub width.
Or, if the dropouts are in alignment and you only ever intend to use that rear wheel in that frame, you could add 5mm of spacers to the axle width which might work better with a triple chainline. Adding all 5mm of spacers to the NDS of the axle will help to even out the the wheels NDS spoke tension asymmetry if you re-dish the wheel afterwards.

P!N20

1. See 2.
2. Do this. 8 Speed Ergo levers are also an option. You'll need an 8 speed Campy hub/cassette.
3. Don't do this.
4. I hate to say this after you've done such a great job with the repaint, but It looks to me like the NDS chain stay has a kink in it, either due to a poor cold setting job or it has copped a knock - see image below. Spacing should be 130mm if you're in 8/9 speed territory.
5. See 2.

Interested in what happened to the seat tube bottle cage mounts. Did you fill them in or does the decal cover them?

GrayJay

Shimano ratio shifters are just not going to play well with your campy derailleur.

Have a look at shifter & derailleur combo into at;
https://www.cyclinguk.org/cyclists-l...gears/shimergo

Your 1.4 ratio old campy 8-speed derailleur could be used together with a shimano 9-speed cassette if you use together with newer (post 2001) 9-speed campy shifter to compensate for the mismatch of derailleur ratio and cassette that would happen if you were to try to use your current RD and a shimano 9-speed cassette together with a early (pre-2002) 9 speed campy shifters. Even if your RD is "8-speed", it should work fine used as an early campy 9-speed, same actuation ratio for both.

Andy_K 

I was just going to say the same thing. I've got a couple of bikes set up this way and they index great. If it were me, I'd keep the 9-speed Shimano-compatible cassette and look for some 9-speed second generation Campy ergo shifters. The main problem with this is that most professional mechanics would tell you that it isn't supposed to work and so once you start down this route you're on your own for maintenance.

The same trick works with 10-speed, BTW -- 10-speed Campy shifters + 8-speed Campy RD + 10 speed Shimano-compatible cassette.

BTW, Racing T rear derailleurs came in both 8-speed and 9/10 speed varieties. The one you have there looks like it's 8-speed based on the script Campy logo. Later models would have block lettering in a black bar. The function distinction between them can be found by looking for the B-screw. The derailleurs with the older pull ratio had the B-screw next to the mounting bolt like Shimano rear derailleurs do. The derailleurs with the new pull ratio have a screw (I don't think they call it a B-screw, but it does the same thing) next to the upper pulley.

The paint looks great, BTW. Very nice work! I'd love to hear a report on the durability of the 2-part clear coat in a year or so.

Andy_K 

Also forgot to mention that you can get 9- or 10-speed Campy bar end shifters. I think the 10-speed are more common. Both are pretty expensive. They'd work with the trick above to mate this rear derailleur with a Shimano-compatible cassette.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/195399801060

If you're patient you can get them for less than half of what this seller is asking. I've seen them sell for under $100 but that's rare if they're in good condition.

capnjonny 

After writing the above post I went back to the garage for another look at the rear drop outs and discovered that the non drive side drop out has been tweeked. I am going to pick up a drop out alignment tool at the shop Saturday and correct the alignment . That should bring the spacing back to 130 mm. Then I am going to change out the derailleur for a Shimano 9 speed unit and see how it works.