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Huffy + Campagnolo Super Record = The Ultimate C&V Sacrilege build

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Huffy + Campagnolo Super Record = The Ultimate C&V Sacrilege build

Old 03-23-23, 07:06 AM
  #451  
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Originally Posted by AdventureManCO View Post
F



WOW! Throw-back mid-80s PC art. Color me impressed!
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Old 03-23-23, 09:07 AM
  #452  
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Originally Posted by nlerner View Post
Clearly you could solve this problem with a Campy rear coaster brake.
Maybe a Nuovo Departure-o piece would work.
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Old 03-23-23, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Mad Honk View Post
Well I went to my Co-op tonight to find a "sacrificial" Huffy frame to destroy for my brake project, but found nothing. So back to the drawing board... I have a vision of the brake caliper drop part that will allow for a few different lengths of drop based on the the position of the attaching bolt. Since a bit of material will be shaved off of the bottom of the brake bridge there are a couple of grams to lose on the frame, but there will be some weight added for the drop part. By carefully calculating the position of the drop part it could be either braced against the lip of the existing bridge on the top or by judicious cutting on the bottom of the bride it will stabilize the drop from movement between the rear stays. Here is the mock up of the drop part as a universal length extender:

When I know the exact amount of length it needs to extend the drop part can be shaved to length and finished as is appropriate for a Campy part.
This is gonna be fun. Smiles, MH
I predict a screeching like you've never heard. It will need to braced somehow by the stays. Of course, you could also treat it as a feature--use the front brake only except for emergencies, then add the rear for both extra braking (ignoring Sheldon) AND a loud audio warning.
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Old 03-23-23, 11:14 PM
  #454  
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Originally Posted by AdventureManCO View Post



So thhhhatts why my ride was always trying to buck me off. Either this bike was secretly painted red and used in the Breaking Away crash scene, or someone just didn't give a crap when it was put together. I refuse to believe the latter, so it must be the former!

Hopefully this will be rectified w/out killing the fork.
In the original Huffy Throw Rules was this gem:
"Bicycle must be completely operational, or as close to operational as the manufacturer originally intended."

Embracing this philosophy will be freeing and will simplify your task exponentially. That fork is perfect, as is.
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Old 03-25-23, 11:55 AM
  #455  
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-- Your participation will be sorely missed, but I'm glad to know I can still keep up w/ you and you can still be involved in whatever degree you dare choose! --


Today is a good day. Breathe deep and feel the lovely cool air in your lungs. Be glad you are alive, and that you have more important things to do than waste time on the Le Grande. I'm here for your weekly ego boost

Since today is National Huffy Day (not really), we will actually attempt to make some progress today. The issue is not with motivation. To be truthful, I've been more motivated on this project than on just about any other one. I did get a fabulous contribution from the godfather several weeks back for the IM, and that bike, before the Huffy, was really nice to get together. But the Huffy is a harsh mistress, and has been very demanding of all my 'bike' time. I haven't so much as sat on another bike since the Le Grande. Time is the main issue. With work, family, house stuff, and keeping everything in balance, every little bit of time I can get for the Le Grande I take.

I was 'out' for a couple days with a bad tweak in the neck. My wife, who has a background in Sports and Exercise Science, just sort of looked at me and said "Well yeah, with your arm up in the air, doing all that filing for hours on end"

So I suppose I got some punishment from the Le Grande for the pantograph. I think the bike must be in the 'anger' phase of the stages of grief. We are still working through the issues. I think the 'bargaining' stage will happen as soon as the Campy stuff starts getting attached...which might start happening today.

Today, we attempt to make some shims, mount either the shifter, the lower cable guide, the front derailleur, all or none.

I will be breaking out my secret weapon today, but the reveal won't happen yet - only when the time is right. To this date, I have never seen it on a bike. I know that it exists somewhere on a bike, but surprisingly, I have not yet seen a photo of it ever on a bike.

If I can get a small special part of the bike done today or tomorrow, then I will reveal this weekend. We'll see how it goes. It is snowy out, so there is no temptation to ride the bike. I mean, the bike is just a frame, but that is neither here nor there.

Some pictures to come soon!
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Old 03-25-23, 02:19 PM
  #456  
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I wonder how this bike will feel and handle when it's finished....
Don't modify any Campy parts to make them fit, just in case you want to go back.
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Old 03-25-23, 04:36 PM
  #457  
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Update: The secret weapon worked.


Photos to come...
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Old 03-25-23, 05:05 PM
  #458  
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@AdventureManCO

I was talking with MadHonk one day and his idea is really good, but if other options are needed, I tried to explain a few of my ideas. The bottom is the kickstand plate.

Use or let loose!


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Old 03-25-23, 05:42 PM
  #459  
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The Secret Weapon revealed...

I will respond to all messages and posts.

But first, the reveal...the secret weapon -






If you know what it is, you know what it can do. Don't underestimate it. You will soon see what it is capable of!
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Old 03-25-23, 05:46 PM
  #460  
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Originally Posted by AdventureManCO View Post
I will respond to all messages and posts.

But first, the reveal...the secret weapon -






If you know what it is, you know what it can do. Don't underestimate it. You will soon see what it is capable of!
Am unfamiliar with such great machinist machines, but it looks like a finger breaker...
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Old 03-25-23, 09:12 PM
  #461  
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Originally Posted by AdventureManCO View Post
If you know what it is, you know what it can do. Don't underestimate it. You will soon see what it is capable of!
Ooh, ooh, can it engrave "Colnago" into the Huffy's chainstay?

-Kurt
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Old 03-25-23, 09:27 PM
  #462  
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Originally Posted by cudak888 View Post
Ooh, ooh, can it engrave "Colnago" into the Huffy's chainstay?

-Kurt
Stop giving me ideas!!!!
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Old 03-25-23, 09:43 PM
  #463  
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Originally Posted by sbarner View Post
I predict a screeching like you've never heard.
I dunno, I've heard some screeching in my day.
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Old 03-25-23, 09:53 PM
  #464  
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The secret weapon's prowess.


1st attempt (ever):



Good, but not quite there.



Second attempt:







Now we're getting there.



3rd attempt:





:
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Old 03-25-23, 10:00 PM
  #465  
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thumpism









Last edited by AdventureManCO; 03-25-23 at 10:14 PM.
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Old 03-25-23, 10:06 PM
  #466  
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Some quick things learned:

The evenness of the face of the Craytex matters. Using the right kind and amount of lubrication on the material matters. Pressure matters, as it splays the Craytex out. The surface preparation before you begin matters and will affect the final outcome. Having a holder for the Crayex is ideal, as opposed to just chucking it in the drill by itself. The 2nd bb adapter plate turned out better (deeper, more precise) but just by happenstance the first ring I did was the drive side, so it will mainly be hidden by the chainrings and crank. Plus, it was my learning experience, so I'm going to leave it since it is a part of the story.

LOTS more planned with this. Bling my Huffy.

Last edited by AdventureManCO; 03-26-23 at 12:21 AM.
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Old 03-26-23, 12:01 AM
  #467  
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Mad Honk and jdawginsc

Wanted y'all to see these pictures, just in case it helps in the thought process of a rear brake extender.

Bout .86 c-to-c on the bolt drop.






Also in this last picture, it shows the bottom of the brake bridge (along with the lovely gloopy paint) - it is bent down 90 degrees on the backside to give it rigidity. I'm not sure a 'slide in' type of device would work here, since it would have to clear this mess.

Let me know your thoughts. Also that was some sweet drawing earlier. Thanks guys!
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Old 03-26-23, 12:17 AM
  #468  
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Calling all framebuilders and jankifiedness-correctors! gugie bulgie scarlson cudak888


I found another dilemma and problem that I can just add to the litany of issues w/ this dumb bike.

Just even eyeing the BB it looked off, so I just grabbed the nearest straightest long thing, which happened to be a dowel about 20in long or so, and slapped it up against the BB shell on both sides and here is what I saw:








Yes, I know...


Not precise by any means, but very repeatable. The end of the dowl is about 4" from the seat cluster, and on the NDS the gap is about .991 at the top of the dowel from the surface of the seat tube. On the DS it is about .64 from the same location. You could tell 'Ol' Blind Alfred' put this one together the day he left his glasses at home.

I took a measurement across the width of the BB shell, and it was a consistent 2.26" around the shell, so I don't think it has to do with the BB shell edge, I think it is truly 'off',or up a creek.


Now, if any of you dare to sully your name and reputation by being associated with this thread and abomination of a bicycle (Kurt is excused, since his good name has been tainted pages ago), I'd be interested in your thoughts. I do have a stable bench and vise that I can clamp the bb shell in, but before I try yank on it, I figured I'd ask - is that a dumb thing to try? Is that the standard 'fix' to such a thing? I would probably put the steel BB bearing cups back in the BB and brace the edges of the shell before trying anything. I'd be happy to hear your thoughts. Yes, I'm crazy and I know it, and acknowledging that does help, or at least gets it out of the way. If the bike breaks in half during the process, rest assured it will get repaired no matter what. It's the bicycle equivalent of owning Enron stock - I've spent too much time investing in it now to get rid of itor sell at a huge loss (in this case = dumpster)...maybe it'll go back up!!!
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Old 03-26-23, 12:35 AM
  #469  
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Originally Posted by CroMo Mike View Post
I wonder how this bike will feel and handle when it's finished....
If it doesn't crack in half when I bend the fork (and now the frame ##@*@&*!@%!# !!!) it's gonna ride frickin' sweet.

Originally Posted by CroMo Mike View Post
Don't modify any Campy parts to make them fit, just in case you want to go back.
Yeah... I think we crossed that line...

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Old 03-26-23, 12:43 AM
  #470  
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And you wondered why or how it tried to toss you off?
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Old 03-26-23, 06:52 AM
  #471  
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Originally Posted by AdventureManCO View Post
Calling all framebuilders and jankifiedness-correctors! gugie bulgie scarlson cudak888


I found another dilemma and problem that I can just add to the litany of issues w/ this dumb bike.

Just even eyeing the BB it looked off, so I just grabbed the nearest straightest long thing, which happened to be a dowel about 20in long or so, and slapped it up against the BB shell on both sides and here is what I saw:








Yes, I know...


Not precise by any means, but very repeatable. The end of the dowl is about 4" from the seat cluster, and on the NDS the gap is about .991 at the top of the dowel from the surface of the seat tube. On the DS it is about .64 from the same location. You could tell 'Ol' Blind Alfred' put this one together the day he left his glasses at home.

I took a measurement across the width of the BB shell, and it was a consistent 2.26" around the shell, so I don't think it has to do with the BB shell edge, I think it is truly 'off',or up a creek.


Now, if any of you dare to sully your name and reputation by being associated with this thread and abomination of a bicycle (Kurt is excused, since his good name has been tainted pages ago), I'd be interested in your thoughts. I do have a stable bench and vise that I can clamp the bb shell in, but before I try yank on it, I figured I'd ask - is that a dumb thing to try? Is that the standard 'fix' to such a thing? I would probably put the steel BB bearing cups back in the BB and brace the edges of the shell before trying anything. I'd be happy to hear your thoughts. Yes, I'm crazy and I know it, and acknowledging that does help, or at least gets it out of the way. If the bike breaks in half during the process, rest assured it will get repaired no matter what. It's the bicycle equivalent of owning Enron stock - I've spent too much time investing in it now to get rid of itor sell at a huge loss (in this case = dumpster)...maybe it'll go back up!!!
Could it be that the tubes are aligned, but they are attached off center to the bottom bracket as well...maybe get a level (36" type) to repeat the dowel exercise and see if they measure the same top and bottom. If it slopes in on both sides, that would be interesting, but it might give you a better idea of the extent of the yanking...wait that doesn't sound right...re-aligning.

As for the brake bridge, I was thinking the plate was mounted on the other side of the stays...back to the drawing board. You could file off the bottom tab, and if it fits flush against the top tab, there is a hole for a bolt into the top of MHs or the one I drew above? Keep it from torquing right and left.
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Old 03-26-23, 08:27 AM
  #472  
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Id think the soft steel of that Huffy would be very yankable to re-align; heck, @cudak888 could probably do it over the Internet!
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Old 03-26-23, 08:51 AM
  #473  
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I keep viewing the post count rising.
much ado about nothing.
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Old 03-26-23, 09:11 AM
  #474  
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Originally Posted by repechage View Post
I keep viewing the post count rising.
much ado about nothing.
Is someone on your lawn again?
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Old 03-26-23, 09:17 AM
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I think that bb shell might work for my twist-lock barbell set, that I use for coldseting the front triangle.
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