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Huffy + Campagnolo Super Record = The Ultimate C&V Sacrilege build

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Huffy + Campagnolo Super Record = The Ultimate C&V Sacrilege build

Old 03-26-23, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by AdventureManCO
Mad Honk and jdawginsc

Wanted y'all to see these pictures, just in case it helps in the thought process of a rear brake extender.

Bout .86 c-to-c on the bolt drop.






Also in this last picture, it shows the bottom of the brake bridge (along with the lovely gloopy paint) - it is bent down 90 degrees on the backside to give it rigidity. I'm not sure a 'slide in' type of device would work here, since it would have to clear this mess.

Let me know your thoughts. Also that was some sweet drawing earlier. Thanks guys!
If the drop adapter had a lip along the top edge to sit on the brake bridge and was recessed for the area around the bolt hole it should be adequately stabilized laterally.
Having seen that you do possess a modicum of skill wielding a metalcrafting hand tool utilized by artisans that created true works of art . . . . .
How about if you drilled a series of shallow overlapping holes parallel to the end and as wide as the bridge then took an appropriate size file to remove material to the depth of say 1/8” to form a trough and countersink for the area around the bolt?

Last edited by stoneageyosh; 03-26-23 at 07:23 PM.
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Old 03-26-23, 01:01 PM
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New idea

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Old 03-26-23, 09:51 PM
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Given that drop bolts have been done in the past with a single bolt, that might just be a bit over the top, don't you think? There's not really that much side-to-side force on a sidepull brake, so long as they're centered.

I wish I still had that drop bolt; it would do exactly what [MENTION=133054]AdventureManCO[/MENTION] needs.

-Kurt
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Old 03-26-23, 10:35 PM
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Isn’t this whole exercise supposed to be over the top to start with? Just trying to maintain the (pick your own description) standard set so far which is outlandish by design, yes?
Besides aluminum is a lot easier to butcher than steel, even such as it is in a Huffy.
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Old 03-26-23, 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by stoneageyosh
Isn’t this whole exercise supposed to be over the top to start with? Just trying to maintain the (pick your own description) standard set so far which is outlandish by design, yes?
Besides aluminum is a lot easier to butcher than steel, even such as it is in a Huffy.
Agreed. Paint it with a coat of mediocre white paint, and it will blend right in.
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Old 03-27-23, 01:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Eric F
Agreed. Paint it with a coat of mediocre white paint, and it will blend right in.
I like the "new idea" design.

Alternately, and perhaps easier, might a normal "Silver and Deming" size range (1/2" plus) twist drill possibly work for creating a simple, conical relief recess on the back side of the extender?
This would allow for a more subtly-sized extender, although your design would be stiffer in resisting bending due to it's wider purchase against the lower edge of the existing bridge and up to your drilled pair holes.

Last edited by dddd; 03-27-23 at 01:48 AM.
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Old 03-27-23, 02:27 AM
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Originally Posted by cudak888
Given that drop bolts have been done in the past with a single bolt, that might just be a bit over the top, don't you think? There's not really that much side-to-side force on a sidepull brake, so long as they're centered.

I wish I still had that drop bolt; it would do exactly what [MENTION=133054]AdventureManCO[/MENTION] needs.

-Kurt
I was thinking that the drop bolt would not drop it enough, thus the adapter.
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Old 03-27-23, 06:19 AM
  #483  
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nuthin' better'n startin' your Monday mornin' at work off with this thread. yep.
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Old 03-27-23, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by jdawginsc
I was thinking that the drop bolt would not drop it enough, thus the adapter.
That wild one I posted a photo of above was very likely long enough to do the job. IIRC, the brake pads in AdventureManCO's picture weren't at the bottom of the slot either.

-Kurt
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Old 03-27-23, 10:08 AM
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Trickle down effect

It seems obvious that this endeavor has affected the prices on used Huffys. Only $295, but sadly, not my size.





https://toledo.craigslist.org/bik/d/...603598323.html
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Old 03-27-23, 10:49 AM
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Look at that gap between seat tube and tire. A frame clearly designed for coast-to-coast tours. Candidate for full Dura Ace triple???

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Old 03-27-23, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Iowa10Speed
Look at that gap between seat tube and tire. A frame clearly designed for coast-to-coast tours. Candidate for full Dura Ace triple???
Now we know where Rivendell got the inspiration for the “Hillibike” geometry:

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Old 03-27-23, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by sd5782
It seems obvious that this endeavor has affected the prices on used Huffys. Only $295, but sadly, not my size.





https://toledo.craigslist.org/bik/d/...603598323.html
that’s mine… this entire thread is just a pump n dump scheme to finance my new Alabama mansion from the pile of used Huffys I found in Vermont!

in other news, we’re 12 posts away from 500 posts devoid of any meaningful content whatsoever, and of course no Campy parts permanently attached to the bike. My mind is on cudak888 (and his sanity) who was concerned about this very same issue nearly 300 posts ago

Now, before any ‘retroconnoiseurs’ get too ‘huffy’ about the Huffy, this whole thing would have been moving more quickly (but not by much) had I not found that the frame and fork have been tweaked into a pretzel, likely by the factory workers (aka sabotage). To wring every bit of performance out of this championship-winning replica, we do need to correct the frame alignment issues, mainly so the bike doesn’t spit me out into traffic. What’s that saying, ‘go slow, save a life?’ That’s the thought here.

But take heart! I mean, I wanted to face all the surfaces on the bike before progressing, and it was only through a difficult, arduous mental battle that I finally decide to compromise and let the build continue without it (really everyone just laughed at me so there’s that). So, we are foregoing some of
the critical precision steps but it’s is for the good of all. The Huffy is a bike of the people.

While Saturday was a day of extravagant details, Sunday was a little more pragmatic. I decide to try to touch up some of the paintwork. The paint is actually in really good shape, but I needed to touch up the panto, and the nds chainstay had some marring from where folks would generally aim their foot to go for the kickstand (and somehow miss??)

I first tried some basic white paint I had in the garage for years, but when I opened it up it just looked like yellow goop - so I decided to use it. I stirred and stirred and finally found some globs of white paint at the bottom of the can. Perfect.

Now before any of you think that I maybe should have gotten new paint, I wasn’t about to spend any more money on this silly dumb project if it didn’t have the word ‘CAMPAGNOLO’ emblazoned across it. Sometimes, you rock what you got.

my first thought was, ‘well I don’t care if it really matches or not, look at those gigantic paint runs going down the undersides of the seatstays’.

But then I painted it, and it just looked wrong, and it turns out I actually did care, unfortunately. So I mixed some paint together and got it relatively close. Remember, this build is all about surface-level vanity.







wow…look how off that fender mount is lol


Yesterday I got a epiphany on the shims for the Campy clamps, so the clamps will be up
next, as well as a special little touch for that bottom bracket.

more to come!

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Old 03-27-23, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Iowa10Speed
Look at that gap between seat tube and tire. A frame clearly designed for coast-to-coast tours. Candidate for full Dura Ace triple???

Dura Ace! Good idea.


I’ve got an ‘83 Trek 600…beautiful deep red
and silver and…can’t compare to the Le Grande!
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Old 03-27-23, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by AdventureManCO
...my first thought was, ‘well I don’t care if it really matches or not, look at those gigantic paint runs going down the undersides of the seatstays’...


Were those paint runs? I thought maybe they were a weld seam(???).
On second thought, while I don't know why they look so jagged, it seems like the paint process thoughtfully oriented the drip line along the hidden side of the tubes, perhaps with the bike leaning just enough so that the drips didn't land on the chainstays.
Or who knows, maybe the painting fixtures had strategic drip channels under the seatstays, IHNI.

Now I'm starting to dread that my own chromed Huffy frameset might similarly be out of alignment, though hopefully not beyond what my tradition of heaving of the dropouts to whichever side that they need to be moved to can deal with.

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Old 03-27-23, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by AdventureManCO
I wasn't paying attention (shocker) when I saw this picture on my phone and thought it was the kickstand mount and you were doing something cheeky like mounting the brake by the BB like some direct mount brakes.
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Old 03-27-23, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by OldForerunner
I wasn't paying attention (shocker) when I saw this picture on my phone and thought it was the kickstand mount and you were doing something cheeky like mounting the brake by the BB like some direct mount brakes.
plenty of cheeky/cheesy/ghetto/janky in the mess of a thread, but this isn’t one of them. This shows the underside of the brake bridge, and the larger bent flange goes toward the rear wheel.
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Old 03-27-23, 03:54 PM
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Whooohooo got my ultralight compressionless cable housing today. And red to match the bike.



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Old 03-27-23, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by dddd
Were those paint runs? I thought maybe they were a weld seam(???).
On second thought, while I don't know why they look so jagged, it seems like the paint process thoughtfully oriented the drip line along the hidden side of the tubes, perhaps with the bike leaning just enough so that the drips didn't land on the chainstays.
Or who knows, maybe the painting fixtures had strategic drip channels under the seatstays, IHNI.

Now I'm starting to dread that my own chromed Huffy frameset might similarly be out of alignment, though hopefully not beyond what my tradition of heaving of the dropouts to whichever side that they need to be moved to can deal with.
It sort of looks like either paint runs or where something reacted. It’s kinda shriveled up. On the underside, so not really noticeable. I think I’m just gonna leave them for now. Got some more painting ahead of me today, and received a good tip on how to apply.
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Old 03-27-23, 04:48 PM
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Nevermind the lumpy white touch up paint around the 'H', that will be wet-sanded smooth after it's had more time to cure. The build MUST CONTINUE



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Old 03-27-23, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by AdventureManCO
Nevermind the lumpy white touch up paint around the 'H', that will be wet-sanded smooth after it's had more time to cure. The build MUST CONTINUE



That's classy AF.
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Old 03-27-23, 05:07 PM
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Holy hell. Somehow I have only just discovered this...madness.
And it is madness of the highest order. I salute you sir.

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Old 03-27-23, 05:33 PM
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You say “wet sand”? The only wet sand that a Huffy would be subjected to would be at a beach!
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Old 03-27-23, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Fahrenheit531
Holy hell. Somehow I have only just discovered this...madness.
And it is madness of the highest order. I salute you sir.


Welcome.

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Old 03-27-23, 07:09 PM
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Real quick, Le Grande fam:

What kind of tolerances should I be seeing between a bare head tube and a headset cup? Should the headtube be smaller by a few thou? Right now I've got a difference of .02 (two hundreds) and my aching hands are wondering if that is gtg.

This is seamed tubing so I don't really want to split anything!

Thanks all!
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