Is painting a frame worth it?
05-27-23, 04:29 PM
#26
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That's exactly the way I'd view it. There are essentially five cost levels here:
1. Wash, polish, and lube everything
2. Wash, polish, and lube everything, plus replace worn out cables, tires, and chain
3. Strip it down and spray paint it yourself
4. Strip it down and send it out for powder coating
5. Strip it down and send it out for professional re-painting
If you intend to resell the bike, level 1 on this list is the only one that's going to add more value than it costs, and even that would be debatable on a more collectible bike. If the bike is the right size for you, I'd recommend going with number 2 and then ride it at least a few hundred miles to decide if you want to throw more money into it. Cost level 3 (spray paint) might sound like it's cheaper than number 4 (powder coat), but by the time you've bought paint, primer, drop cloths, sandpaper, cleaning supplies, etc.., it's really not much more to go with a simple, one- color powder coat. There is a lot more satisfaction in painting it yourself if it comes out looking good, but spray paint will never be anywhere near as durable and the first few times you do it won't look as good as powder coating. Professional paint is really expensive, and should be reserved for bikes that you really love.
Because we like pics here, I'm going to share one each from my collection to compare and contrast, spray paint, powder, and pro paint. I think this really highlights the value of powder coating.
Rust-Oleum spray paint with cheap (diylettering.com) decals:
Very good powder coating (Groody Bros) with replacement decals
Top-notch professional paint (Jeff Bock) with replacement decals
Up close and in person, there's no question about the relative quality of these. The pro paint is simply fantastic. It also cost three times as much as the powder coating. I paid $350 for the powder coating, including decal application and hand-paint fill of the fork crown. You can get a simple powder coat for less than half of that. The spray paint looks pretty good from 10 feet away, but it has some texture, and within 100 miles it was starting to chip.
My recommendations:
Beater bike -- wash (optional) and ride
Beater bike with paint and/or rust so nasty that it makes you not want to ride it -- spray paint if you want the experience of painting a bike, otherwise recycle and find something else
Daily rider that you really like with paint that can't be touched up -- powder coat
Show piece or the pride of your bike collection -- professional paint
1. Wash, polish, and lube everything
2. Wash, polish, and lube everything, plus replace worn out cables, tires, and chain
3. Strip it down and spray paint it yourself
4. Strip it down and send it out for powder coating
5. Strip it down and send it out for professional re-painting
If you intend to resell the bike, level 1 on this list is the only one that's going to add more value than it costs, and even that would be debatable on a more collectible bike. If the bike is the right size for you, I'd recommend going with number 2 and then ride it at least a few hundred miles to decide if you want to throw more money into it. Cost level 3 (spray paint) might sound like it's cheaper than number 4 (powder coat), but by the time you've bought paint, primer, drop cloths, sandpaper, cleaning supplies, etc.., it's really not much more to go with a simple, one- color powder coat. There is a lot more satisfaction in painting it yourself if it comes out looking good, but spray paint will never be anywhere near as durable and the first few times you do it won't look as good as powder coating. Professional paint is really expensive, and should be reserved for bikes that you really love.
Because we like pics here, I'm going to share one each from my collection to compare and contrast, spray paint, powder, and pro paint. I think this really highlights the value of powder coating.
Rust-Oleum spray paint with cheap (diylettering.com) decals:
Very good powder coating (Groody Bros) with replacement decals
Top-notch professional paint (Jeff Bock) with replacement decals
Up close and in person, there's no question about the relative quality of these. The pro paint is simply fantastic. It also cost three times as much as the powder coating. I paid $350 for the powder coating, including decal application and hand-paint fill of the fork crown. You can get a simple powder coat for less than half of that. The spray paint looks pretty good from 10 feet away, but it has some texture, and within 100 miles it was starting to chip.
My recommendations:
Beater bike -- wash (optional) and ride
Beater bike with paint and/or rust so nasty that it makes you not want to ride it -- spray paint if you want the experience of painting a bike, otherwise recycle and find something else
Daily rider that you really like with paint that can't be touched up -- powder coat
Show piece or the pride of your bike collection -- professional paint
05-27-23, 08:16 PM
#27
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I have completely stripped and painted one steel frame and touched up another. The one I touched up was a metallic charcoal color (like every SUV out there) so I took the stripped frame to a local auto parts and matched to the cap color in the sun. The rattle paint was for mag wheels and matched almost perfect. I got new decals from Velocals (no longer in business) masked off and painted only the top and down tube. This paint was great to work with, dried fast and hard. Then I saturated rags with rubbing compound or plastic polish and buffed and blended like a shoe shine. I was pretty happy and was able to keep half of the original paint. Bike is a Viner.
The second was a Benotto 3000 that someone had rattle canned poorly over the existing. This is a nice frame so I got stripper, sand paper, wire wheel and 3 cans of paint and primer and went to town. the job turned out good but the paint is not very chemical resistant. After all the expense and trashing my garage with overspray I whish I had it powdercoated. They do all the prep. I did like getting the Benotto to bare metal because you could see the main lugged joints were silverbrazed. Also the original chrome fork was painted over. I ended up finding a NOS one so it really does look good. I have obtained yet another set of decals so if the paint really fails, I can powdercoat. This Benotto ended up having a lot of money added to the original $170 frame, but the ride is pretty darn good.
For your bike, I would try to obtain replacement decals, disassemble and try the shoe shine rubbing compound. You can remove the old decals with an old credit card. You will be suprised how well it may turn out. You really need a bike stand to do this so you can start spending a fair amount of money yourself now.
The second was a Benotto 3000 that someone had rattle canned poorly over the existing. This is a nice frame so I got stripper, sand paper, wire wheel and 3 cans of paint and primer and went to town. the job turned out good but the paint is not very chemical resistant. After all the expense and trashing my garage with overspray I whish I had it powdercoated. They do all the prep. I did like getting the Benotto to bare metal because you could see the main lugged joints were silverbrazed. Also the original chrome fork was painted over. I ended up finding a NOS one so it really does look good. I have obtained yet another set of decals so if the paint really fails, I can powdercoat. This Benotto ended up having a lot of money added to the original $170 frame, but the ride is pretty darn good.
For your bike, I would try to obtain replacement decals, disassemble and try the shoe shine rubbing compound. You can remove the old decals with an old credit card. You will be suprised how well it may turn out. You really need a bike stand to do this so you can start spending a fair amount of money yourself now.
Last edited by socalife; 06-12-23 at 04:40 PM. Reason: added photos
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06-11-23, 10:32 PM
#29
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I would definately recomend a good clean and wax first before stripping and painting.
I do both frequently and the cleaning is a lot easier and less chance if a botched job.
My process is
Strip all hardware off frame and fork,
Wipe down with paint thinner to remove caked on grease
Wash with Dawn dish soap and water
Paint all rusty bits with Naval Jelly(my experience is that it doesn't damage paint and will remove rust spots embeded in the paint). Rinse thouroughly in water.
If large areas of bare rusted metal are showing I scrape the rusted metal with a disposavle box cutter khife , or other blade, to remove scaly rust
Rub out paint with white polishing compound and if necessary, rubbing compound. the goal is to remove the surface of the paint just enough to remove any contaminants in it without rubbing through the paint.
wash frame with clean wash cloth and Dawn dish soap
rinse
Wax
If you want to clear coat don't wax.
Assemble a rotissery set up on a work table (see photo) to hold bike I have used a seat post or a wood dowel to hold the bike.
purchase 1 spray can rustoleum automotive clear
Heat the can under hot tap water till the paint is warmer than blod temp.
Agitate well.
Spray the frame starting with the seat stays, chain stays, seat tube, down tube, top tube and head tube in that order rotating the bike constantly as you spray to keep the paint from running.
Idealy you want a wet coat but better to put paint on too light rather than to heavy till you are comfortable with how it is laying down and you can avoid runs.
With a clear coat if you don't get completely even coverage it probably won't show.
The clear can dramatically improve the appearence of the finish
I do both frequently and the cleaning is a lot easier and less chance if a botched job.
My process is
Strip all hardware off frame and fork,
Wipe down with paint thinner to remove caked on grease
Wash with Dawn dish soap and water
Paint all rusty bits with Naval Jelly(my experience is that it doesn't damage paint and will remove rust spots embeded in the paint). Rinse thouroughly in water.
If large areas of bare rusted metal are showing I scrape the rusted metal with a disposavle box cutter khife , or other blade, to remove scaly rust
Rub out paint with white polishing compound and if necessary, rubbing compound. the goal is to remove the surface of the paint just enough to remove any contaminants in it without rubbing through the paint.
wash frame with clean wash cloth and Dawn dish soap
rinse
Wax
If you want to clear coat don't wax.
Assemble a rotissery set up on a work table (see photo) to hold bike I have used a seat post or a wood dowel to hold the bike.
purchase 1 spray can rustoleum automotive clear
Heat the can under hot tap water till the paint is warmer than blod temp.
Agitate well.
Spray the frame starting with the seat stays, chain stays, seat tube, down tube, top tube and head tube in that order rotating the bike constantly as you spray to keep the paint from running.
Idealy you want a wet coat but better to put paint on too light rather than to heavy till you are comfortable with how it is laying down and you can avoid runs.
With a clear coat if you don't get completely even coverage it probably won't show.
The clear can dramatically improve the appearence of the finish
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06-11-23, 11:53 PM
#30
Senior Member
I've seen worse paint brought back to life, the paint on your Bianchi is far from gone. A thorough washing and degreasing, followed by some automotive rubbing compound and elbow grease, and then some cleaner wax and it'll shine up nicely. Be careful around the decals.
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06-12-23, 01:10 AM
#31
Newbie
Painting is always worth it if you really want it and you are willing to pay a sum for a job well done. It is always a matter how badly you want it and how much are you willing to spend for it.
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06-12-23, 05:57 AM
#32
Senior Member
Brush painting a frame is a great option. 1/2" art brush and a 1/2pint of gloss oil paint. On this Peugeot I worked around the original decals.
On your Bianchi I would be tempted to go the classic Bianchi Celeste green. Just sand the frame a bit, wipe it clean, and apply paint in a few thin coats. Gloss oil will naturaly flow out and dry smooth. Literally its about an hour per coat. Let dry overnight. Pretty relaxing work actually. I hang my frame from the basement ceiling. Twirl it around to get access to all the tubes.
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06-12-23, 07:01 AM
#33
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If not happy with results just cleaning the bike and polishing, paint/powdercoat could be your Plan B, and...
[QUOTE=big chainring;22920743] On your Bianchi I would be tempted to go the classic Bianchi Celeste green. /QUOTE]
... my thoughts exactly -- you then have an opportunity to Celeste-ify the bike.
[QUOTE=big chainring;22920743] On your Bianchi I would be tempted to go the classic Bianchi Celeste green. /QUOTE]
... my thoughts exactly -- you then have an opportunity to Celeste-ify the bike.
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06-12-23, 08:19 AM
#34
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As I approach being able to paint my frame, I really appreciate all the tips here. The frame is an old steel Raleigh, with quite a few rusty patches. I have applied a rust-converting compound (like rustoleum) but for some of the larger patches the surface is quite bumpy.
In the thread above, I see advice to scrape it back with a box cutter or to sand. Is one method preferable, or is it simply a matter of choice?
The frame has a large sticker on the down tube and some pretty beat up decals. I plan to mask the sticker and the decals, rather than attempt to replace. Do I need to use a rattle can for a primer, even if I do not remove all the old paint? The final coat will be rattle-can automotive matte black.
In the thread above, I see advice to scrape it back with a box cutter or to sand. Is one method preferable, or is it simply a matter of choice?
The frame has a large sticker on the down tube and some pretty beat up decals. I plan to mask the sticker and the decals, rather than attempt to replace. Do I need to use a rattle can for a primer, even if I do not remove all the old paint? The final coat will be rattle-can automotive matte black.
06-12-23, 08:52 AM
#35
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for large rusted areas I scrape with a box cutter then sand the bare metal areas with 320 grit wet/ dry then apply the naval jelly . You can do multiple coats of naval jelly , rinsing between to determine how much rust is left.
06-12-23, 09:12 AM
#36
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Ah, OK, So it is a rust converter. But you say to remove the rust, then apply the naval jelly. If you have removed the rust, what is the point of the rust converter?
Last edited by JeremyCherfas; 06-12-23 at 09:14 AM. Reason: Un lazified
06-12-23, 09:20 AM
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Its a rust remover, metal etcher (if left on long enough). very caustic and works great. Wear gloves. Rinse well after using.
As an 8-year old, I thought it came from belly-buttons. I was wrong.
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06-12-23, 10:04 AM
#39
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What Is Naval Jelly?
[img]data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACAAAAAgCAYAAABzenr0AAACDUlEQVR4AWIgFqxQyNAA9F4PsJZDURSGx7Zt2wrGi Dm2bdu2bdu2bRvh2Maef/iapu/gqskXFXu1PUQnrMIVvMC3v57hHBagHhJoHmdcNBJq4RTEwgfMQDp/ihfCGYgf3qHdigzNrYu3wCdIgCxBNNPi/SBBsAqRdMWbQQycwRh0wyBswDuIRj9V8QIGn/0eyoRzfxIsgCh8QT7v1q5v6Y+QRvUFV6Vr/utZ0yAKW7wCVINoVDFsQ7HwBKKQzX3TCYjCMcteNAei0MM9wolGG8sAfSAKm5wXd4Jo5LIMMAWicMF58RqIwjdEsSheBq8gCpecN 1yDaGzCBAxCD3RAq786oB/m4BLEwDZngFeQEGvnDPANEkLXEMsZ4AskRE4gjbvRPIME0RfsQw1E8mq1FyAa9zADy7AJe3AIx3Dir0PYgRWYgHaogHi6brMMorE rQrCOv0nFQIFgBcgCMXBoOf8wAPWiIZZ+MvI2zOfC6Zv9qtMEL/AO+ZwBakAMDUEky7dO4THkN3EvSM5BDB1CqfUZOugKZ8MIvIG4FHJfXMyHQekapqGLY14YgmW4BfGCA6syNfNM3AkSZK+QzXtNl6 XtrxCjIEHyDuXU/y1T018hugRhjniAIjYttxSuBGgumIIEvgwaUdAAFyCWnmESsvg9Ws7P0OBXmDzohnW4hlf49tcr3MAWDEI5073gT3LTdow5dfghA AAAAElFTkSuQmCC[/img]eHow
https://www.ehow.com › ... › Squeaky Clean
Naval jelly is basically a gel solution that has been infused with phosphoric acid. The gel form makes it functional for removing set-in rust stains, ...
Many here use evaporust. The difference is that with naval jelly you brush it on then hose it off. With evaporust you have to submerge the part in it, something more difficult with a large part like a frame or wheel. Naval jelly directions say to avoid getting it on your skin. My experience is that it is not strong enough to burn you but suggest wearing rubber gloves and safety glasses as a precaution. The reason to scrape, sand, then apply naval jelly is because it is best to remove as much rust as possible by other means and use Naval jelly as the fiinal process. Crusted rust will not be removed by an application of Naval jelly . That is why it is best to use other methods first , like crumpled up tin foil or 0000 steel wool rubbed lightly over rusted area. You can also use brass cleaning brushes to get into corners .
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06-12-23, 11:23 AM
#40
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I’d say yes, especially if a pro or extremely talented amateur does the job. However, the term worth it, can vary greatly on a personal level. Below is my Bianchi that I received as a badly abused, crashed frame, I had it straightened and repainted, original fork was totaled.
Tim
Tim
Last edited by tkamd73; 06-12-23 at 11:31 AM.
