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Need Help: Looking for Garmin Gravel Worlds Vintage bike/frame

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Need Help: Looking for Garmin Gravel Worlds Vintage bike/frame

Old 11-25-23, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Sedgemop
Did you need to file the brakes on either bike?
I did have to file the front brake a little bit on the Raleigh but I did not need to file the brakes on the Moto GR.
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Old 11-25-23, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by bikemig
I did have to file the front brake a little bit on the Raleigh but I did not need to file the brakes on the Moto GR.
Good to know. I've been wanting to make a gravel bike out of a Moto GR for a while. This might be the winter.
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Old 11-25-23, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Classtime
Here is a start. Some one knows if there is room for 35s. I’ve never had one.
https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/b...684303729.html

Originally Posted by X3speed
that’s really a good deal. Will it fit 35”s? If so I’ll get it.
...that's the best deal on a large steel frame I saw on a quick look at the Chicago CL. I had one of those in a smaller size, and it has enough clearance for fenders and 27" wheels, IIRC. If you're fitting it with 700c wheels, and no fenders, you should be good to go,

Those were relatively high quality frames, made in Asia by Panasonic (I think), the three mains are butted, and the rest of the tubing is unnamed. I enjoyed riding this one around for years, until I sold it on to someone.

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Old 11-25-23, 11:40 AM
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I'd inquire about tire clearance on this one too.

FS: 1979 Mercian Campionissimo (24 inch, fully restored)


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Old 11-25-23, 11:51 AM
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Patience and sanding

Originally Posted by bikemig
I think that particular Schwinn takes an oddball stem (21.15). If it does, you're unlikely to find a replacement if you need a different length.
If that is the case, adapting a more typical 22 stem just involves gripping the insert portion of the stem in sandpaper and twirling until you sand it down to the proper diameter. This has been done for years to deal with the French stem conundrum.
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Old 11-25-23, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Sactown_Albert
If that is the case, adapting a more typical 22 stem just involves gripping the insert portion of the stem in sandpaper and twirling until you sand it down to the proper diameter. This has been done for years to deal with the French stem conundrum.
I'd be concerned about taking that much material from a stem (22.2 to 21.15); with a French stem you are simply taking it down from 22.2 to 22.0.
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Old 11-25-23, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Sedgemop
I'd inquire about tire clearance on this one too.

FS: 1979 Mercian Campionissimo (24 inch, fully restored)


those are 27”. Exchange for 700c or tubulars and more room.
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Old 11-25-23, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by iab
Pinky is too small. 32s pictured, easily take 38s.


Umberto Dei 01 by iabisdb, on Flickr
‘that bike is just a terrific fusion of eras. No buyer yet?
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Old 11-25-23, 12:56 PM
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.
...on the Voyageur frames, they definitely do not have a short top tube. That's why you see most of them with relatively short stems, which is how they were sold.
Regardless. I have a long torso, relative to my overall height and inseam length. The cycle shown in my photo fit me very well, even with that shorter stem.

But if you're dead set on a frame with a shorter top tube, that's not the frame you want to buy. But it does meet all your other requirements, at a bargain price. As you can see, for a while I had it set up with 27" wheels and 32mm Schwalbe tires. I can't recall exactly, but I think it might be fully chromed under that black paint.
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Old 11-25-23, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by repechage
‘that bike is just a terrific fusion of eras. No buyer yet?
I'm taking it to the Madison swap. I'm too lazy for any other transaction.
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Old 11-25-23, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by repechage
those are 27”. Exchange for 700c or tubulars and more room.
think 700x35 would fit?
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Old 11-25-23, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by X3speed
think 700x35 would fit?

the radius of a 700c is 4mm smaller, looking at the brakes the pads are not crammed up, so that clearance should be

OK, the chainstays will be the limiting factor, I do not know if they are indented or round oval round. Sliding the axle back will assist also.

Inquire as to the chainstay metalwork about the current tire.
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Old 11-25-23, 02:18 PM
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if I was looking for a gravel bike for myself, I would focus on 60's/early 70's frames when center pull brakes were popular (in other words before Campy regular reach 47/57mm brakes came on the market around 1970). Centerpull brakes had a longer distance between the attaching bolt and the brake shoes. This makes more room for fatter tires. Sometime in the late 70's, Campy started making shorter reach brakes and so did the Japanese. These were often 39 to 49mm (Campy short reach being a bit more). Frames designed for these brakes are what I would avoid. This group is going to be the big majority of what's available. Now it has become popular to use fatter tries necessitating longer reach brakes again. One thing to realize is that builders design a frame for the brake shoe to be either at the top, middle or bottom of the brake slot. That of course affects the available space to fit a tire. My solution would be to take a small 6" ruler with me to measure what space is available.
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Old 11-25-23, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by X3speed
think 700x35 would fit?
Bike is being sold here on the site. Better off asking the seller about clearance. He can tell you for sure rather than us guessing.
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Old 11-25-23, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Sedgemop
Bike is being sold here on the site. Better off asking the seller about clearance. He can tell you for sure rather than us guessing.
haven’t heard back yet
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Old 11-25-23, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Sedgemop
I'd inquire about tire clearance on this one too.

FS: 1979 Mercian Campionissimo (24 inch, fully restored)


this bike is nuts!

Last edited by X3speed; 11-25-23 at 07:20 PM.
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Old 11-25-23, 05:14 PM
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High trail is preferred for gravel, right? I imagine just about any 80s touring bike would work great. Japanese touring bikes often were shorter along the top.
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Old 11-25-23, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Doug Fattic
What combination of top tube length and stem length were you thinking that would fit your needs?
ideally 58tt, 63st, short stem.
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Old 11-25-23, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by X3speed
haven’t heard back yet
Big travel holiday weekend…
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Old 11-25-23, 11:55 PM
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My starting point was from a French stem

Originally Posted by bikemig
I'd be concerned about taking that much material from a stem (22.2 to 21.15); with a French stem you are simply taking it down from 22.2 to 22.0.
Should have been more explicit that my suggestion was to start with a French stem which is significantly more available than the proprietary 21.15 stem used by Schwinn.
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Old 11-26-23, 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Sactown_Albert
Should have been more explicit that my suggestion was to start with a French stem which is significantly more available than the proprietary 21.15 stem used by Schwinn.
Removing that much material from a quill stem, besides being a PITA, would scare the heck out of me. YMMV, though.
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Old 11-26-23, 06:07 AM
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Originally Posted by X3speed
ideally 58tt, 63st, short stem.
You might be better off looking for a bike with a 58 cm top tube (which will quite possibly also have a 58/60 cm seat tube). You can get the height you need with the seatpost (there are plenty of tall seatposts out there) and you can get the handlebars up with a nitto technomic or a quill threadless adapter.

Too expensive at $365 (but prices will trend down during the winter) but this 60cm '73 Raleigh Super Course is in nice shape and has lots of clearance for fat tires,
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...9-8acfdcef4eca

I linked to this earlier but my vote would go to this 70s era Fuji S12s:
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...e-e42d9526a0e4

Vintage Fujis are very well made bikes and this will make an excellent platform for a gravel mutt. One potential downside to the Fuji, though, is that you may have to do a 650b conversion to get the tire size you want.

Here is a piece from Sheldon Brown talking about why top tube length matters more than seat tube length. I think he's right:

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-sizing.html

Last edited by bikemig; 11-26-23 at 07:07 AM.
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Old 11-26-23, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Piff
High trail is preferred for gravel, right? I imagine just about any 80s touring bike would work great. Japanese touring bikes often were shorter along the top.
If the intended use is to race on gravel, shorter chain stays are preferred. What is our budget?
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Old 11-26-23, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Classtime
If the intended use is to race on gravel, shorter chain stays are preferred.
Just wondering, why does that matter one iota at all? Greater races with greater racers have been done with long chain stays. They had long chain stays when roads were were pretty much mostly gravel, why were they wrong then?
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Old 11-26-23, 08:01 AM
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If you're allowed to run non-original wheel size, I personally would be looking to do a 27 to 700c or 26 to 700c conversion. This is my 84 850 converted from 26" to 700c that I use as a gravel bike:



It's setup with barcons mounted on Paul thumbies seem to be legal as well?







1983 Trek 520 converted from 27" also clears the same 700x38c GravelKing Slick without any trouble.

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