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1972 Schwinn Paramount - eBay clunker to RESTORED

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1972 Schwinn Paramount - eBay clunker to RESTORED

Old 12-29-23, 11:13 AM
  #26  
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Oh, you mean the pivot. I was confused, I have the red button quick release levers on my black crusty bike.
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Old 12-29-23, 11:59 AM
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+1 on Rustoluem orange. Last summer I painted a Windsor Super Carrera, my first rattle-can job. I don't remember what my first choice of paint was, but the orange just did not pop. I painted right over it with Rustoleum and got a nice bright finish.
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Old 12-30-23, 10:17 AM
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Your work, both the Paramount and the photography, made my week. Very well thought out build choices and component selection that mirror my own methods. +3 on the Rustoleum spray enamel paint, Iím using their Sunshine yellow over red primer (to mimic Schwinnís paint work I guess,) on my Super Sport project, not as bright as the Schwinn Kool Lemon, but as on your orange work, shiny and smooth.

Very well done, another bicycle saved and being put to proper use.

Bill

Last edited by qcpmsame; 12-30-23 at 10:21 AM.
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Old 12-30-23, 02:02 PM
  #29  
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Love it… So classic…
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Old 12-30-23, 04:58 PM
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Hi friends,

I am pleased to report my 12 mile test ride went SUPERB! (Those 23cm tires roll FAST!)
Shifting and overall feel was the nicest of all my Schwinns (of course).

Regarding the photo work, I like the outdoors a bit better, yet that's even harder to setup. (a slight breeze blows it all away!)

I need to make diffuser(s) for the overhead lighting to make it not as harsh.

These are simply the 4' Harbor Freight LED lighting I use in my workshop. Works fine. I could probably use one more (with white diffuser) right over it.

Posterboard reflectors help. I positioned them closer with a tripod when I did detail shots.

I did use my pro Canon EOS R5 (mirrorless) with a Canon 24-105L lens. (My son's iPhone 15ProMax would probably look better HA!)

Settings: 1/125 sec shutter, f-4.5 lens, ISO 2000, no polarizer. I used JPEG, not RAW.

Editing: I use Adobe Camera Raw software (not Lightroom) to enhance my images. I made the darks darker, the brights and colors moreso. It 'Pops'. Resize to 4:3 aspect ratio (4000x3000)

(I just added THIS newly restored bike into my online Gallery. What a dream to ride. I like the larger more cushioned 27x1-1/4" wheels. for everyday use and urban roads.)




Indoor photo area

I purchased this funky axle-mounting three piece side-stand on eBay. I used it on the front and rear wheels to keep it hidden and upright. The small donut with tang tightens behind the axle and you slip the tubing on to the protruding tang. A horrible idea for a sidestand but just right for this use!

Axle mounted sidestand

You may find this useful.

Last edited by SharpByCoop; 12-30-23 at 05:10 PM.
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Old 12-30-23, 05:06 PM
  #31  
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Here is the OTHER side of my shop:


My HAPPY PLACE!
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Old 01-01-24, 11:51 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by SharpByCoop
Got it. I was unsure about that. However when I placed the clamp above this boss, it seemed too high compared to others, and the levers were very close to the lugs.

I like how the points align even if wrong. It's tight. I will leave it. Good eye, though! Thank you. Next one I'll do this!
Originally Posted by SharpByCoop
Got it. I was unsure about that. However when I placed the clamp above this boss, it seemed too high compared to others, and the levers were very close to the lugs.

I like how the points align even if wrong. It's tight. I will leave it. Good eye, though! Thank you. Next one I'll do this!
The shifter stop is not original to the frame, so it is possible that it was put on too high. Since Campy shifter bands have decorative points, some builders used a V-shaped stop, while others just put the stop on the bottom of the tube. It has been my observation that the levers were mounted a little lower on the tube in the 1970s, moving up near the end of the decade. I have Italian bikes that tuck the levers up just behind the head lug, though this may have been a little different on larger frame sizes. You're pretty much stuck with wherever the factory placed them, as the clamps always seem to distort the paint. I have an original '72 P13 and the clamp is just above the Paramount decal, quite a ways below the head lug.

I have also always wondered about the apparent lack of design sense that forced you to put a bottle cage clamp over the downtube decal. Since it was almost standard to put a Silca pump on the seat tube (with an umbrella clip in 1972), the downtube was where the bottle cage would be mounted, once handlebar mounts went out of vogue. On the other hand, the Raleigh Pros had the same issue with the brake cable housing clamps over the gold Professional script on the top tube, so this wasn't an issue unique to Schwinn.

Just keep an eye on those shifters until you're sure they are staying put. They will make a mess of the paint if they start working their way down the tube. Don't ask me how I know.
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Old 01-01-24, 12:02 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by SharpByCoop
Hi friends,

I am pleased to report my 12 mile test ride went SUPERB! (Those 23cm tires roll FAST!)
Shifting and overall feel was the nicest of all my Schwinns (of course).

Regarding the photo work, I like the outdoors a bit better, yet that's even harder to setup. (a slight breeze blows it all away!)

I need to make diffuser(s) for the overhead lighting to make it not as harsh.

These are simply the 4' Harbor Freight LED lighting I use in my workshop. Works fine. I could probably use one more (with white diffuser) right over it.

Posterboard reflectors help. I positioned them closer with a tripod when I did detail shots.

I did use my pro Canon EOS R5 (mirrorless) with a Canon 24-105L lens. (My son's iPhone 15ProMax would probably look better HA!)

Settings: 1/125 sec shutter, f-4.5 lens, ISO 2000, no polarizer. I used JPEG, not RAW.

Editing: I use Adobe Camera Raw software (not Lightroom) to enhance my images. I made the darks darker, the brights and colors moreso. It 'Pops'. Resize to 4:3 aspect ratio (4000x3000)

(I just added THIS newly restored bike into my online Gallery. What a dream to ride. I like the larger more cushioned 27x1-1/4" wheels. for everyday use and urban roads.)




Indoor photo area
.
That Superior looks so much like my '77 P15 it made me do a double-take. From a distance, the chrome lugs and socks on my bike are the visible differences. I have a Sports Tourer and the story at the time was that Schwinn had a bunch of the ST frames left over and these Superiors were released as a way to use them up. I don't know how much truth there was in that yarn, but I was working at a Schwinn dealer at the time and that's what we were told. The ST had cable stops on the downtube, so thy must have removed them before painting the frames. I'm running barcons on my ST.
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Old 01-01-24, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by SharpByCoop
Here is the OTHER side of my shop:


My HAPPY PLACE!
That is an interesting vise! Donít think Iíve seen one like that before. Nice shop!
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Old 01-01-24, 01:03 PM
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I really like the way this came out. The color is excellent and all your hard work shows well . I will send a message with my address where to send the bike! seriously though, good job. Joe
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Old 01-02-24, 09:36 AM
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ACHiPo Kabuki12 Thank you both.

That vise came from a woodshop equipment buyout. It opens wide or narrow when you push the handle back, and then you position it to the width of what you are working on.

Then the handle acts like a CAM and it tightens hard. Very quick to get to size and if you use your body you can hold the part, hold the handle and then clamp it quickly. Yes, it is a great vise I would never have purchased alone.

Working on a Velosolex Etoile next. It never ends....
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Old 01-02-24, 09:42 AM
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sbarner Thanks for those tips above. Duly noted. I only had ONE ride so far and no probs, yet I'd best give that shifter clamp another squeeze!

That Superior is my newest FAVORITE ride. It is SO quiet and smooth. I do a lot of riding around town in a fairly urban area, so I am going to (Oh, the horror!) put some Weinmann assisted levers on it for my personal safety.

That was an incredible $100 facebook Marketplace deal. It needed hours of TLC, but what a core project.

Full photo review here:
https://www.knifegallery.com/Vintage...ior/index.html
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Old 01-03-24, 02:22 PM
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A+ work
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Old 01-03-24, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by SharpByCoop
sbarner Thanks for those tips above. Duly noted. I only had ONE ride so far and no probs, yet I'd best give that shifter clamp another squeeze!

That Superior is my newest FAVORITE ride. It is SO quiet and smooth. I do a lot of riding around town in a fairly urban area, so I am going to (Oh, the horror!) put some Weinmann assisted levers on it for my personal safety.

That was an incredible $100 facebook Marketplace deal. It needed hours of TLC, but what a core project.

Full photo review here:
https://www.knifegallery.com/Vintage...ior/index.html
So long as you have the brakes adjusted properly snug, they should work ok, also encourage you to use Koolstops as well and looks like you're already there.

I also used some long thick heat shrink from HD on them for covers that seemed to make them a lot more palatable IMO.

Ran it from the flat part near the pivot to the ball on the end leaving the ball exposed.
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Old 01-03-24, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by SharpByCoop
sbarner Thanks for those tips above. Duly noted. I only had ONE ride so far and no probs, yet I'd best give that shifter clamp another squeeze!

That Superior is my newest FAVORITE ride. It is SO quiet and smooth. I do a lot of riding around town in a fairly urban area, so I am going to (Oh, the horror!) put some Weinmann assisted levers on it for my personal safety.

That was an incredible $100 facebook Marketplace deal. It needed hours of TLC, but what a core project.

Full photo review here:
https://www.knifegallery.com/Vintage...ior/index.html
My 58 came to me with later levers including the turkey's, and bars.

It also came with the original brakes, levers and Major Taylor stem, could not get them swapped out fast enough.

1958 Schwinn Paramount P-12
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