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3-spd Raleigh Super Course build Lauterwasser Edition

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3-spd Raleigh Super Course build Lauterwasser Edition

Old 04-17-24, 04:45 PM
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The Soma site has some good photos illustrating the shape of the bars. I'm gonna see if the shop has an 18t cog tomorrow. For the headlight, I'm thinking of the Foxeye StVZO.
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Old 04-18-24, 07:29 AM
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Oh man, just looking at the photos of these Super Course bikes makes my mouth water.
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Old 05-03-24, 07:35 AM
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Little setback. On two occasions now, the SRF hub has made an unsettling crunching sound, then the rear wheel has slipped in the dropouts. The first time was not good. The second time, last night, didn't lead to any elevated heart rate, but it did mean I had to nurse the bike back home. A quick search turned up others with a similar issue. I think the net result is that the hub is no good. Luckily, I have a second. I suppose this will be plenty of inspiration to buy a CR18 rim and lace up the spare hub.

I removed the dynamo front wheel. I've got a set of Knog lights that do plenty of what I need at a fraction of the weight and don't have wires to worry about routing/wrapping/taping over. I may revisit the dynamo option later on, but for my purposes (which include carrying the bike up and down four stories) it, at the moment, seems unnecessary.
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Old 05-03-24, 07:29 PM
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bulgie , in that picture of your Super Course Sturmey Archer bike, it has a traditional front fender rain flap. Cen you please measure the dimensions or the flap and print them? I’d like to make a few for my couple of fendered bikes. I like them because they are wide enough to give good coverage and flexible enough to not transfer tearing stresses to the actual mudguard.
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Old 05-03-24, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Road Fan
bulgie , in that picture of your Super Course Sturmey Archer bike, it has a traditional front fender rain flap. Cen you please measure the dimensions or the flap and print them?
Sorry, no, I'm not going to do that. The flap is integral to the fender, riveted in place, so I'd need to drill out the rivets to get the flap out. Anyway it's not a great shape, should be longer to come closer to the ground, and tapered so it's full width at the bottom but narrower as you go up.

Just make a shape that does the job and looks nice; you don't need it to match anyone else's, right? Unless you're trying to pass them off as vintage Bluemels flaps, in which case you'll need to get one free of the fender to lay it flat and trace it.
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Old 05-03-24, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by bulgie
Sorry, no, I'm not going to do that. The flap is integral to the fender, riveted in place, so I'd need to drill out the rivets to get the flap out. Anyway it's not a great shape, should be longer to come closer to the ground, and tapered so it's full width at the bottom but narrower as you go up.

Just make a shape that does the job and looks nice; you don't need it to match anyone else's, right? Unless you're trying to pass them off as vintage Bluemels flaps, in which case you'll need to get one free of the fender to lay it flat and trace it.
How about just the height of the bottom above ground?
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