Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

1986 Nashbar Race SIS - just bought please advise

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

1986 Nashbar Race SIS - just bought please advise

Old 01-07-24, 07:03 AM
  #51  
Senior Member
 
Classtime's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 4,689

Bikes: 82 Medici, 2011 Richard Sachs, 2011 Milwaukee Road

Mentioned: 55 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1943 Post(s)
Liked 1,988 Times in 1,101 Posts
Nowadays and for all days, a can of Mastic will last a long time, is less expensive than tape, and makes repairs a breeze.
__________________
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
Classtime is offline  
Likes For Classtime:
Old 01-07-24, 07:24 AM
  #52  
Full Member
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Mason Ohio
Posts: 236

Bikes: '85 Schwinn Madison, '46 Higgins Ultralite, 1950s Wally Green, '85 Trek 660, '82 3Rensho Export, '90 Trek 970, '91 Schwinn Paramount, '78 Dawes, '78 Trek 730

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 76 Post(s)
Liked 248 Times in 103 Posts
as others have said
1. remove and sell the saddle to fund your upgrades or at least preserve it.
2. go thru the bike and regrease the various bearings, maybe switch to sealed BB, may need to recable it as well, have the wheels trued. check if brake pads are stopping well or are dried out and hard.
3. put a new set of tubulars on (or watch for a set of 6 speed 700C clinchers to buy), make sure they have the same hub width, and a 6 speed freewheel fits your derailleur capability.
4. don't repaint it, just clean it up as a very nice rider. Clean off the frame, give it a good coating of car wax. It doesn't have much restoration value, actually more parted out value then value as a complete bike.

Last edited by brewerkz; 01-07-24 at 07:25 AM. Reason: grammer
brewerkz is offline  
Likes For brewerkz:
Old 01-07-24, 09:24 PM
  #53  
Time Traveler
Thread Starter
 
BikePower's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Florida, USA
Posts: 326

Bikes: 1983 Ross Paragon

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 204 Post(s)
Liked 98 Times in 51 Posts
Originally Posted by blamester
It's a good bike and might do you well. .....Looks big for 5/11 but you have to ride it to see. ....
​​​​​​
When i first put my hands on the bike it seemed very small and i was dissapointed that i wouldn't be able to ride it.

I measured the seat tube from the center of the crank to the top of the tube and it is exactly 23" (58.42cm). I checked the chart and things were looking up.

Then i pumped up the tires and stood over it and i could comfortably stand flat footed but it is touching with virtually no space between me and the top tube.

With the saddle in the lowest position I can touch the ground with both feet on my tip toes. Any higher than a half inch or so and I wouldn't be able to.

I'm just wondering because in all the photos of road bikes I see, the seat is always up several inches but mine is all the way down.

I'm thinking you might be right and I need a 22" frame instead.

I also tested my wingspan to height ratio and it is 1.06.

I read that if it is greater than 1, then a bigger frame than is indicated in the chart can be used.

What do you think?

Last edited by BikePower; 01-07-24 at 09:44 PM.
BikePower is offline  
Old 01-07-24, 10:52 PM
  #54  
Full Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SF Peninsula
Posts: 414

Bikes: 1986 Centurion Ironman, 1997 Trek 2120, Trek T1000

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 137 Post(s)
Liked 203 Times in 116 Posts
Originally Posted by BikePower
​​​​
With the saddle in the lowest position I can touch the ground with both feet on my tip toes. Any higher than a half inch or so and I wouldn't be able to.

I'm just wondering because in all the photos of road bikes I see, the seat is always up several inches but mine is all the way down.
There is no need to touch the ground with your bum on the saddle. As you slow down, stand on the pedals and get yourself ahead of the saddle, so that you can put one foot at pedal-bottom to hold your weight while your hips lower and the other foot reaches down to the ground.
tgot is offline  
Likes For tgot:
Old 01-08-24, 06:40 AM
  #55  
...
 
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Whitestone and Rensselaerville, New York
Posts: 1,485

Bikes: Bicycles? Yup.

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 475 Post(s)
Liked 1,508 Times in 721 Posts
Originally Posted by BikePower
What do you think?
I can't put both feet down on tiptoe from the saddle, just one foot plus a bit of tipping. I think you're good.
BTinNYC is offline  
Old 01-08-24, 07:16 AM
  #56  
I don't know.
 
RB1-luvr's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: South Meriden, CT
Posts: 2,000

Bikes: '90 B'stone RB-1, '92 B'stone RB-2, '89 SuperGo Access Comp, '03 Access 69er, '23 Trek 520, '14 Ritchey Road Logic, '09 Kestrel Evoke, '08 Windsor Tourist, '17 Surly Wednesday, '89 Centurion Accordo, '15 CruX, '17 Ridley X-Night, '89 Marinoni

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 312 Post(s)
Liked 848 Times in 443 Posts
that's a sweet bike. I would service it and keep it mostly original.
RB1-luvr is offline  
Likes For RB1-luvr:
Old 01-08-24, 08:02 AM
  #57  
^ * * ^ * * ^
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: FL USA
Posts: 164

Bikes: 1977 Tom Kellogg Nr. 27 - 1984 Bob Jackson - 1987 Alpineer - 1999 Bianchi - 2002 LeMond Buenos Aries- 2007 Specialized Tarmac Pro - 2017 Mongoose Argus Comp FatBike - 2024 Gravity 29er 1-Speed Monstercross

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 67 Post(s)
Liked 284 Times in 93 Posts
That sticker with the 'Lot' number may indicate it was sold at an auction at some point. Cool, quality bike. I'd leave it as is, original and do the minimum to get it to nice riding condition. Not much value except to someone who had one in the day and is trying to find another.
cegerer is offline  
Likes For cegerer:
Old 01-08-24, 01:42 PM
  #58  
Klaatu..Verata..Necktie?
 
genejockey's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 17,895

Bikes: Litespeed Ultimate, Ultegra; Canyon Endurace, 105; Battaglin MAX, Chorus; Bianchi 928 Veloce; Ritchey Road Logic, Dura Ace; Cannondale R500 RX100; Schwinn Circuit, Sante; Lotus Supreme, Dura Ace

Mentioned: 41 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10389 Post(s)
Liked 11,839 Times in 6,059 Posts
Originally Posted by BikePower
When i first put my hands on the bike it seemed very small and i was dissapointed that i wouldn't be able to ride it.

I measured the seat tube from the center of the crank to the top of the tube and it is exactly 23" (58.42cm). I checked the chart and things were looking up.

Then i pumped up the tires and stood over it and i could comfortably stand flat footed but it is touching with virtually no space between me and the top tube.

With the saddle in the lowest position I can touch the ground with both feet on my tip toes. Any higher than a half inch or so and I wouldn't be able to.

I'm just wondering because in all the photos of road bikes I see, the seat is always up several inches but mine is all the way down.

I'm thinking you might be right and I need a 22" frame instead.

I also tested my wingspan to height ratio and it is 1.06.

I read that if it is greater than 1, then a bigger frame than is indicated in the chart can be used.

What do you think?
As others have said, you don't need both feet to touch the ground from the saddle. If you set your saddle height that way, your saddle will be MUCH too low! You should never be on the saddle when you come to a stop.

A good rule of thumb for saddle height is this: sitting on the saddle where you'd normally sit, set the height so you can JUST put your heel on the pedal with the pedal as far away as possible, and your leg straight. That way, with your foot on the pedal so that the ball of your foot is directly over the spindle, your leg will be slightly bent.

Once you've done that, if the saddle STILL seems too low (i.e. slammed down onto the top tube, then, yeah, the bike is too large for you.

Regarding that chart - it's really just guidelines. The length of your legs relative to your overall height is the key.
__________________
"Don't take life so serious-it ain't nohow permanent."

"Everybody's gotta be somewhere." - Eccles
genejockey is offline  
Likes For genejockey:
Old 01-10-24, 02:50 AM
  #59  
Time Traveler
Thread Starter
 
BikePower's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Florida, USA
Posts: 326

Bikes: 1983 Ross Paragon

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 204 Post(s)
Liked 98 Times in 51 Posts
Originally Posted by SurferRosa
I was referring to your comment about painting it. Why the hell would you paint it? Have you ever painted a bike?
Ive painted cars, so I should be able to prep and paint a little bike. But, now that ive had time to think things through and spend time with her, theres no way I would paint it. Shes so gorgeous, Im loving this color now. and that 80s thing.. I cant deny that.

Last edited by BikePower; 01-10-24 at 02:58 AM.
BikePower is offline  
Old 01-10-24, 02:54 AM
  #60  
Time Traveler
Thread Starter
 
BikePower's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Florida, USA
Posts: 326

Bikes: 1983 Ross Paragon

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 204 Post(s)
Liked 98 Times in 51 Posts
Originally Posted by genejockey
As others have said, you don't need both feet to touch the ground from the saddle. If you set your saddle height that way, your saddle will be MUCH too low! You should never be on the saddle when you come to a stop.

A good rule of thumb for saddle height is this: sitting on the saddle where you'd normally sit, set the height so you can JUST put your heel on the pedal with the pedal as far away as possible, and your leg straight. That way, with your foot on the pedal so that the ball of your foot is directly over the spindle, your leg will be slightly bent.

Once you've done that, if the saddle STILL seems too low (i.e. slammed down onto the top tube, then, yeah, the bike is too large for you.

Regarding that chart - it's really just guidelines. The length of your legs relative to your overall height is the key.
Ok, I have the seat adjusted now and this is definitely the right size bike for me. I followed your instructions and all is well. Thank you.

Now its time to dial in my stem reach and rise. According to the one picture Ive seen from the catalog, the Cinelli stem and bars that's on there is not original. Neither are the bars. From what I gather the original stem is a 120 Nitto Pearl, black. I dont know what bars it came with originally but I would like to know. If anyone has a 1986, 1987 Nashbar catalog with that bikes specs in it, that would be incredible. The date on the bike is December 1986 so it may be built with 1986 or 1987 specs. Anyone know where I could see a catalog? Much appreciated.

Im working my way around the bike in my free time making a list of everything I need for the restoration. I am embarrassed to remember that I once considered stripping and painting this bike. I now realize the absurdity of that thought. The more time I spend with her, the more I love the color and 80s awesomeness.

This week Im ordering new tubies in blackwall, tire glue going with the Mastic because I understand that it can be moved if I need to unmount the tire and replace it while on the road.. Thats crucial.

I will post up progress pictures as I go along in case anyone is interested.
BikePower is offline  
Likes For BikePower:
Old 01-10-24, 08:18 AM
  #61  
Senior Member
 
shoota's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Stillwater, OK
Posts: 7,827
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1872 Post(s)
Liked 692 Times in 468 Posts
Cool bike! I'm with the others, don't repaint it. I can never understand why folks want to immediately paint their new-to-them bike. The other day a friend asked if I had a bike to sell for her son going to college. Sure enough, I did. A nice little Specialized Hard Rock, the ones known for their cool paint jobs. He comes over, looks at it, barely takes it down the driveway, pays, and then says "I can't wait to paint it orange."
__________________
2014 Cannondale SuperSix EVO 2
2019 Salsa Warbird
shoota is offline  
Likes For shoota:
Old 01-11-24, 09:15 AM
  #62  
Time Traveler
Thread Starter
 
BikePower's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Florida, USA
Posts: 326

Bikes: 1983 Ross Paragon

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 204 Post(s)
Liked 98 Times in 51 Posts
Originally Posted by brewerkz
as others have said
1. remove and sell the saddle to fund your upgrades or at least preserve it.....
I removed the saddle to preserve it as you advised. Its very comfortable and doesnt hurt at all, but if its that valuable I dont want to diminish it for someone who really wants that specific saddle. Now Im on the hunt for a black leather saddle that fits my pelvis properly and doesnt put pressure on the perineum.
BikePower is offline  
Old 01-12-24, 08:36 AM
  #63  
Edumacator
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Goose Creek, SC
Posts: 6,720

Bikes: '87 Crestdale, '87 Basso Gap, '92 Rossin Performance EL-OS, 1990 VanTuyl, 1980s Losa, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 1987 PX10, etc...

Mentioned: 58 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2416 Post(s)
Liked 3,046 Times in 1,928 Posts
Originally Posted by BikePower
I removed the saddle to preserve it as you advised. Its very comfortable and doesnt hurt at all, but if its that valuable I dont want to diminish it for someone who really wants that specific saddle. Now Im on the hunt for a black leather saddle that fits my pelvis properly and doesnt put pressure on the perineum.
Selle Italia SLR Max Gel is one of the most comfortable I have used. Have several of them on bikes and in the stash. https://www.ebay.com/itm/18622398917...Bk9SR9SpneGfYw


Also, some of the men's Terrys.




​​​​​​
__________________
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super












jdawginsc is offline  
Old 01-12-24, 01:44 PM
  #64  
Time Traveler
Thread Starter
 
BikePower's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Florida, USA
Posts: 326

Bikes: 1983 Ross Paragon

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 204 Post(s)
Liked 98 Times in 51 Posts
Originally Posted by jdawginsc
Selle Italia SLR Max Gel is one of the most comfortable I have used. Have several of them on bikes and in the stash.



​​​​​​
Thanks Jdawg! Its on the way!!
BikePower is offline  
Old 01-12-24, 02:31 PM
  #65  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Madison, WI USA
Posts: 6,140
Mentioned: 50 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2356 Post(s)
Liked 1,742 Times in 1,186 Posts
Originally Posted by shoota
The other day a friend asked if I had a bike to sell for her son going to college. Sure enough, I did. A nice little Specialized Hard Rock, the ones known for their cool paint jobs. He comes over, looks at it, barely takes it down the driveway, pays, and then says "I can't wait to paint it orange."
🎶I see a Hard Rock and I want to paint it orange. I have no taste in bikes, I want it to turn orange....🎶
madpogue is offline  
Likes For madpogue:
Old 01-12-24, 02:34 PM
  #66  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Madison, WI USA
Posts: 6,140
Mentioned: 50 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2356 Post(s)
Liked 1,742 Times in 1,186 Posts
If you're in/near Collier or Lee county RUN, don't walk and grab that Sirrus listed above. Granted, it's not the bargain you got, but as said, if it has clinchers, then you have two bikes between which you can swap wheels.

I don't remember the exact details, but don't try to put any other brand of handlebar, especially a flat bar, on that Cinelli stem. It's a slightly different clamp diameter, and the stem won't ever clamp down tightly on another bar, and you can damage the stem trying to get it to do so (not that I would know first-hand or anything....cough....cough....). In fact, if you're really fixed on switching to a flat bar, I would remove the bar/stem together, with the brake levers and cables in place, so you can sell that as an assembly. You would need flat-bar brake levers anyway.

That said, I would seriously think twice about running a flat bar with downtube shifters. My wife tried that for a while, and didn't like that reach. She went back to drop bars. That Sirrus in Ft Myers is set up that way; if you buy it, you could use that as your "test dummy" for such a setup.

And joining the chorus - don't repaint it.
madpogue is offline  
Old 01-12-24, 05:52 PM
  #67  
Time Traveler
Thread Starter
 
BikePower's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Florida, USA
Posts: 326

Bikes: 1983 Ross Paragon

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 204 Post(s)
Liked 98 Times in 51 Posts
Originally Posted by madpogue
.....
That said, I would seriously think twice about running a flat bar with downtube shifters. My wife tried that for a while, and didn't like that reach. She went back to drop bars......

...And joining the chorus - don't repaint it.
I thought about the downtube shifter thing also, definitely will take practice. I was thinking bullhorn, moustache, or albatross bars in that order.

And once again for the record i have no intention of painting the bike. For a moment it crossed my mind when i first saw it but now i realize it would be blasphemy and a crime against the c and v community. Its a gorgeous color and styling, the epitome of the 80s.
BikePower is offline  
Old 01-23-24, 01:49 PM
  #68  
Time Traveler
Thread Starter
 
BikePower's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Florida, USA
Posts: 326

Bikes: 1983 Ross Paragon

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 204 Post(s)
Liked 98 Times in 51 Posts
Originally Posted by Classtime
Your bike is made for 700c wheels so not 27 X anything.
1.25 is 32mm and many 80s race bikes were made for 23s or 25s will take 25s and maybe 28s.
well i bought tires for it but they seem small? Is this the right size?
BikePower is offline  
Old 01-23-24, 02:27 PM
  #69  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 5,731

Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa

Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3478 Post(s)
Liked 2,895 Times in 1,760 Posts
Originally Posted by BikePower
Then i pumped up the tires and stood over it and i could comfortably stand flat footed but it is touching with virtually no space between me and the top tube.
That right there tells me it's too big for you.
smd4 is offline  
Old 01-23-24, 02:30 PM
  #70  
Senior Member
 
Classtime's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 4,689

Bikes: 82 Medici, 2011 Richard Sachs, 2011 Milwaukee Road

Mentioned: 55 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1943 Post(s)
Liked 1,988 Times in 1,101 Posts
Those are ok first tubulars. Expensive tires ride nicer. If you got a deal, your good. But, the rally’s I had were very difficult to patch because the base tape is very very hard to peel back and get access to the tube.

23s we’re very fast in 1986. I can’t imagine they have slowed down much. 😉
__________________
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
Classtime is offline  
Old 01-23-24, 02:54 PM
  #71  
Time Traveler
Thread Starter
 
BikePower's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Florida, USA
Posts: 326

Bikes: 1983 Ross Paragon

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 204 Post(s)
Liked 98 Times in 51 Posts
Originally Posted by smd4
That right there tells me it's too big for you.
how much space should there be with a properly sized bike?
BikePower is offline  
Old 01-23-24, 03:12 PM
  #72  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 5,731

Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa

Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3478 Post(s)
Liked 2,895 Times in 1,760 Posts
Originally Posted by BikePower
how much space should there be with a properly sized bike?
I would have suggested that you be able to lift the front wheel an inch before hitting anything.

But, as the saying goes, YMMV. It is a pretty nice bike.
smd4 is offline  
Old 01-23-24, 03:26 PM
  #73  
Senior Member
 
70sSanO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 5,799

Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1942 Post(s)
Liked 2,162 Times in 1,321 Posts
Originally Posted by BikePower
how much space should there be with a properly sized bike?
For me it is not about clearance standing flat footed, it is about knee and torso comfort and staying balanced.

I personally like KOPS or slightly back and I want to feel comfortable in the drops without feeling too scrunched or too laid out. Swapping stems to get there while still being balanced fore and aft is fine.

Ideally being to ride hands free, and not too much pressure on hands while on the hoods or in the drops.

I’ve traditionally ridden bikes a little too big for me, long torso. I have also gone down on both road and mountain bikes. Lack of standover height never an issue. Unfortunately other areas of my body not always so lucky.

John

Last edited by 70sSanO; 01-23-24 at 03:32 PM.
70sSanO is offline  
Old 01-23-24, 03:49 PM
  #74  
Senior Member
 
icemilkcoffee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,383
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1555 Post(s)
Liked 1,730 Times in 971 Posts
Originally Posted by smd4
I would have suggested that you be able to lift the front wheel an inch before hitting anything.

But, as the saying goes, YMMV. It is a pretty nice bike.
There is no real hard and fast rule. Was it Eddy Merckx or Greg Lemond who said there should be a fistful of seat post showing. Of course that is a completely subjective and very murky rule. Some frames stick out above the top tube more than others. Some seatpost have more height above the 'post' than others. And of course everyone's fist is a different size. So in the end there is really no ironclad rule. As long as you can stand over the top tube without going 'ouch' you're golden. Or you could even disregard that rule. Jean Robic at 5' tall, could not stand over his bikes but that didn't stop him from winning a Tour De France:
icemilkcoffee is offline  
Old 01-23-24, 03:54 PM
  #75  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 5,731

Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa

Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3478 Post(s)
Liked 2,895 Times in 1,760 Posts
Fine. Still recommend 1” clearance.
smd4 is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.