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Help estimate frame size on thrift Miyata 512 road bike

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Help estimate frame size on thrift Miyata 512 road bike

Old 05-16-24, 12:52 AM
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Originally Posted by elcyc
But the Miyata 512, bottom line for me, needs: fenders; wider, commuting tires; 4 panniers; double-brake levers; a kick stand.

How about somewhat emulating a Surly Long Haul Trucker.
The Miyata is a fine bike, but if this is your goal, you’re probably better off with your old Gary Fisher. Why not have one dedicated utility bike and one fun go-fast bike?
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Old 05-16-24, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by elcyc
The tires and tubes the 512 are dry rotted. How fat (wide) and "cross-country / touring" can I go with the present rims: ARAYA, SS45 700C Sliver 36H
Don't worry about the rims. The rims can handle wider tires perfectly fine. The limiting factor is the frame and the brake calipers.


Originally Posted by elcyc
But the Miyata 512, bottom line for me, needs: fenders; wider, commuting tires; 4 panniers; double-brake levers; a kick stand.
Do you really need fenders in Southern California? Also- what are double brake levers?
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Old 05-16-24, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by wheelreason
Don't quit the day job...
58 c-to-t is 57 c-to-c. So @mstateglfr was spot on correct. Somebody has got egg on his face.
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Old 05-16-24, 10:24 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by elcyc
Well, I was able to get the raw thrift going after a tube patch and lube.
Gotta say that after clean and polish, this thing looks nice!
I had some 700c tires from the Fuji laying around; they are wider and a bit TALLER. And the TALL is where I ran into a snag -- it began hitting the brake caliper when the tire was fully inflated.
So I need wide and a bit low-profile, like originals.
Ideas welcome!
You dont mention what the actual inflated measured size tire you tried to fit even is, or the brand/model, but you want suggestions for a tire that isnt as tall? Thats like asking what 3+x=y is. um...more info is needed.
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Old 05-16-24, 05:19 PM
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Double lever

I want to do as little as possible on this bike project.
Experiments with how resourceful one can become!
But I need dual brake levers.
But not necessarily the “suicide levers” so common on old school 10 speeds.
I absolutely despise common front -only road bike arrangements. I want TOPs. Even for the sake of rerouting existing front cables for new top levers.If I can do so resourcefully.
I always had duals in previous road bikes. Almost never used fronts.
Below is an image of traditional 10 speed with top and front, dual lever.
I realize we’ve come a long way since then and there maybe much better options for tops.


Last edited by elcyc; 05-16-24 at 05:27 PM.
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Old 05-16-24, 05:38 PM
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You want cross top, or “interrupter” levers.



Installing them will probably require replacing at least the inner cables, and handlebar tape. They need to be sized to clamp your handlebar.
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Old 05-16-24, 09:02 PM
  #32  
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I'd probably just get a flatbar and Sturmey Archer shortpull brake levers (or some vintage shortpulls by Shimano, Suntour, etc)
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Old 05-17-24, 08:21 AM
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Bike as station wagon.

Originally Posted by icemilkcoffee
23" so 58cm it is!
BTW- Awesome job carrying one bike home on the back of another bike!
I could have car'd it. But the dream we live in suggested otherwise: that the experience should be unique, didactic and (ultimately) academic (repeatable).
The setup you see looks bizarre and real chaos theory. But it was extremely stable, balanced, secure and protective of both the load and the carrier. In many ways, the return loaded trip was easier as it was mostly downhill; and with extra mass/inertia, I was mostly coasting. And the success and smoothness of the loaded trip is very much a psychological trip as well: inventing, planning, experimenting, and deliberately riding with purposeful precaution and slow-paced (timed) actions (like braking, riding speed, gear shifting).
Bottom line: a very smooth, fun and rewarding experience. I could probably, now, haul two stacked bikes of similar weight as the 512.
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Old 05-17-24, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by bboy314
The Miyata is a fine bike, but if this is your goal, you’re probably better off with your old Gary Fisher. Why not have one dedicated utility bike and one fun go-fast bike?
Yeah, the more I ride the stock 512, the more I appreciate its OEM design and purpose.
Fenders, maybe.
But SAFETY and practicality of it remaining a usable, enjoyable road bike is important. To that end ...
I have replaced the clipped pedals with stomps. Removed water bottles and their holders, too. And added a small kickstand. Some lights, too. And this was, for me anyway, an improvement over the OEM.
I definitely want top brake levers (interrupters, maybe?) .
I also need good, safe 700c x 23c tires, as what it came with is well worn out. Maybe, Conti's.
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Old 05-17-24, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by icemilkcoffee
58 c-to-t is 57 c-to-c. So @mstateglfr was spot on correct. Somebody has got egg on his face.
LOL, don't quit YOUR day job.
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Old 05-17-24, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by wheelreason
LOL, don't quit YOUR day job.
While calling out your mistakes is undoubtedly a full time job, unfortunately it's not a paying gig. If you are going to put somebody down- at least make it make sense.
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Old 05-17-24, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by wheelreason
LOL, don't quit YOUR day job.
What is your deal? The OP asked for a guess on size, I offered up a guess, and it was close.
I don't understand why you have responded in this manner twice now, while offering up nothing beneficial to the OP or thread.
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Old 05-19-24, 04:00 PM
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Seems like the people guessing it’s a 60 cm frame have never seen a 60 cm frame.
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Old 05-19-24, 04:15 PM
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FWIW, OP went ahead and bought the bike, apparently w/o worrying too much about the size. Checking with a tape measure would have been so easy....
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Old 05-19-24, 08:02 PM
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Why not just measure it?
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Old 05-21-24, 06:43 AM
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Old 05-21-24, 08:17 AM
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That looks very clean. I kind of remember those with the through tube routing. They only did that a season or two. I don’t think the entry and exit points are reinforced leading to area of potential stress riser.
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