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Originally Posted by Aubergine
(Post 23313959)
Actually, at least with Stronglight, Nervar, and Spécialités TA cranks, the marks D and G (droit et gauche) do signify French threads. Those cranks use R and L for English threaded arms.
But I'm sure the French do that just to show their disgust for even having to make English threaded products. They aren't good enough for French abbreviations. |
Originally Posted by Robvolz
(Post 23313954)
I had a recent crank fail and the good folk at Cycle Path fixed it right up for $30 and 1day.
That is if stripping occurs. |
Originally Posted by Kontact
(Post 23313991)
Then why does an Italian crank using Italian for English lead you to believe they will use French for... French? Seems like there's an L and an R missing from that equation.
But I'm sure the French do that just to show their disgust for even having to make English threaded products. They aren't good enough for French abbreviations. Anyhoots, we’re just saying that marking left or right in Italian doesn’t signify anything other than right and left. |
Originally Posted by noobinsf
(Post 23313996)
Speaking of cranks…
Anyhoots, we’re just saying that marking left or right in Italian doesn’t signify anything other than right and left. This thread is just another one that reminds me how hard people try to screw stuff up. If it wasn't someone suggesting forcing a steel spindle into soft aluminum threads, it would be someone suggesting barely tightening the steel spindle you're standing on into those soft aluminum threads. (And then acting like the super experienced mechanic is the fool in the thread.) |
Originally Posted by Kontact
(Post 23313906)
This is either a joke or just really questionable advice. "A lot of force" is what leads to "I stripped my vintage crankset". If your threads are tight (or French) - they should be cleaned up with a tap. That extra material in there is just as likely to make the threads blow out as anything else.
Makes me think Kontact hasn't assembled many Campy-equipped bikes. It might be different now, but when I was a mechanic ('70s-'80s), Campy pedals almost always fit really tight in Campy cranks. I believe it is a feature, not a bug. Nary a one of them ever stripped the crank threads, so the fear-mongering may be a tad overdone. Thread clearances can vary quite a bit from one maker to another, but there's a strong correlation between tightness and cost, with the pricier ones being the tighter fit. I think a pedal that fits tight in the crank will experience less movement and the associated fretting, which is what causes cranks to break at the pedal hole. It's not an ideal design, but good enough for most people who aren't named Jobst. |
Originally Posted by bulgie
(Post 23314018)
All advice is questionable I guess, so maybe you weren't being needlessly insulting to an esteemed member of the forum?
Makes me think Kontact hasn't assembled many Campy-equipped bikes. It might be different now, but when I was a mechanic ('70s-'80s), Campy pedals almost always fit really tight in Campy cranks. I believe it is a feature, not a bug. Nary a one of them ever stripped the crank threads, so the fear-mongering my be a tad overdone. Thread clearances can vary quite a bit from one maker to another, but there's a strong correlation between tightness and cost, with the pricier ones being the tighter fit. I think a pedal that fits tight in the crank will experience less movement and the associated fretting, which is what causes cranks to break at the pedal hole. It's not an ideal design, but good enough for most people who aren't named Jobst. I wonder where the esteem is coming from. He certainly has being rude mastered. |
Originally Posted by bulgie
(Post 23314018)
It's not an ideal design, but good enough for most people who aren't named Jobst.
I remember his tirades about that. And he claimed he was not stronger than other riders, but who else broke cranks at his frequency? Anyway, I went through this a fair bit when French-threaded pedals were still fairly common. You can probably force the pedals in. But you definitely can run taps through the cranks which converts the threads from French to English. If you don't want to buy the taps, bring the cranks (or bike) to a shop. They can do the job quickly for you, and it won't cost much. I rarely have to deal with this, but I have a pair of taps anyway, so maybe you should, too? |
Originally Posted by gearbasher
(Post 23313775)
According to VeloBase, these Gipiemme cranks came in both English and French threads: https://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=2D6B7107-DAC8-472B-A274-06CED61CC544&Enum=115&AbsPos=3
https://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=e7ef5f1b-e1c1-469f-8768-91356ded694d&Enum=115 btw, RustyJames, cool pedals! |
Originally Posted by SurferRosa
(Post 23314138)
Is that the question? If his Gipiemme crankset is one of these two models, he has the chance of it having French threads?
btw, RustyJames, cool pedals! |
Originally Posted by Aubergine
(Post 23313959)
Actually, at least with Stronglight, Nervar, and Spécialités TA cranks, the marks D and G (droit et gauche) do signify French threads. Those cranks use R and L for English threaded arms.
The Stronglights I have either say 9/16x20 - or nothing. I have Nervars with BSA stamped on them. |
Originally Posted by SurferRosa
(Post 23314138)
Is that the question? If his Gipiemme crankset is one of these two models, he has the chance of it having French threads?
btw, RustyJames, cool pedals! The TPI measurement on the pedals, which I believe to be original to the bike 40 years later, was done with a Mitutoyo thread pitch gauge and the measuring calipers aren’t fancy but have been confirmed to be very accurate compared to a 0-1” micrometer so I’m satisfied with that part of the equation. Upshot of all of this, I screwed in the Suntour Cyclone pedals and I never had a thought that something was off. It didn’t take too much effort but more than getting the spindle threaded in by hand. I wrote a bunch of other stuff that I deleted but I didn’t lose any sleep last night about my course of action. |
Originally Posted by RustyJames
(Post 23314372)
I wrote a bunch of other stuff that I deleted but I didn’t lose any sleep last night about my course of action.
The few pics of Gipiemme cranks and pedals I see online that are French thread have "14x1.25" written on the arm or pedal axle. |
To be clear: if there are D and G markings, that means the threading is French.
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Originally Posted by oneclick
(Post 23314280)
The Stronglights I have either say 9/16x20 - or nothing.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5e254afe2f.jpg I have Nervars with BSA stamped on them. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4a06032e95.jpg |
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