Using Classic Brake Levers
 

I am in the process of restoring an early 80's Dr Rosa. I can't resist not using the pantographed Camp record brake levers with the Campy Nuovo Record brakes. It has been over 45 years since I used non aero levers so am asking if there will be a learning curve or to expect much of a difference. Thanks. A side note - I have never used dual pivot brakes.

Using old levers with newer calipers?

You *might* have an issue with the return spring in the caliper not having the tension to pull the lever back to “start.” Depending on the caliper and levers.

I ran into that using some 6400 series calipers with old, slotted Superbe levers. That’s how I discovered what SLR really is.

If you set them up properly, no. Biggest adjustment for me is changing my motion of using water bottle when I’m in the drops so it doesn’t get hung in the brake cable.

Your 72 Px-10 and your 84 Performance Superbe have aero levers? A big difference is the ease of wrapping your handlebars.

I have used the non aero brake levers for quite a while . I have a few bikes with early Campagnolo Nuovo Record brakes and levers and they stop just fine . I rode a later style Grand Compe brake set ( NGC 400 ) with aero levers and they stopped better but not enough to want to change the other bikes over. Just give yourself a bit more time to stop , eventually you will stop just fine. I live on a very steep hill so the start of my ride is always braking and preparing for cross traffic at stop signs placed all three blocks going down. I never had to roll through the intersection , the older side pull Campagnolo work.

Your post is unclear about what levers you intend to use; all you've indicated is that you "can't resist not using" panto-ed record levers.

Using the original Camy Record calipers.

I agree. Your use of a double negative (intentional, or not?) is confusing.

Generally, the newer or more modern the design, the better the component functions. Old School levers get the job done just fine but the material tends to deteriorate in a nasty way...
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d051517082.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...269f0fcd9e.jpg

Aero levers are easier to wrap, according to others, but that is not a problem for me. I wrap with levers removed. For me, Aero levers are easier to use, not to mention a more positive feeling. In fact, this Velo Sport Prestige, upgraded to Aero levers (amongst other things) will travel with me to Jamaica this Winter and the bike will see a lot of miles or kilometers, depending on what form of measurement you use. Did you know that an inch is based on the length of some medieval king's thumb part - anyway. Still gotta tape the bars but I always test the brake lever position (amongst other things) before I tape the handlebar (no sense wasting $3 worth of bar tape)...
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c4a17effd8.jpg

But this modern puppy is now my go to brake lever for the best rides, feel and performance...
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ca43b10e96.jpg

And, to be as up front as I can about which brake I prefer, I am not fond of the two lever close to each other system employed by Shimano and other manufacturers...
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...74ecf7ff55.jpg

The biggest point of controversy is the length of your brake cables. As a rule, be like Eddie!
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c939b5f501.jpg

For classic levers, I prefer the cables infront of the bar to limit interference with rider actions behind the bar.

I once rebuilt a better quality single speed flip flop bike with an old pair of Weinmann levers and dual pivot Tektro brakes. The owner who still commutes on it several years later says he likes the setup and it works very well. My only issue was the chatter caused but the light brake caliper springs not holding the brake levers closed with sufficient force but the owner said it didn’t bother him at all.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a20fb4c99.jpeg
Converted from flat bar to drops using old ten speed parts.

There is a big difference between the force required for Campy Record (1970's type) brakes versus something like the Shimano SLR single pivot brakes of the late 80's. Even with modern-ish teflon lined cable housing and smooth stainless cables, you will have to apply a fair bit of force when braking from the hoods. You'll still be able to stop, but it'll take some effort.

Steve in Peoria, with a three bikes set up with the old Campy Record sidepulls, and one bike with Shimano 600 SLR (circa 1989).