So the saga of the PPPKN-10's crankset has been extended once again. The problem this time is that the threadless BB is too long (116mm) for any front derailleur I have, including an Ultegra triple, to swing the big ring. The place I got the 116 from has a 110, which will for sure work for the derailleur, although after the previous nightmare, which was exacerbated by the 107mm UN-72 that The Guy Who Built The Bike horked into the Swiss-threaded shell. Way too short... you couldn't see the spindle behind the drive-side crankarm.

But I'm gonna have to pull the cranks again. And since the whole ordeal started when the puller that came with my cheap-arsed-because-I'm-hella-broke tool kit stripped both threads. So I'm going to buy a new one. I don't like the skinny, flat handle of the Park... hurts my hands. I also don't want to spend any more than I have to. (Cuz I'm hella broke.)

What do people like? And what do y'all hate?

--Shannon

My method always employs a puller from one of the main players, Campy, Sugino, and even Park who's tools I am generally not fond of.

The Park with the handle is not ideal if the cranks are on tight like they should be, it has too little leverage and often fails.

The puller must be fully seated and tight in the arm with clean threads so it won't pull out.

2 wrenches must be used on tight cranks so that you are forcing the center puller screw through the tool without turning against the crank threads.

You need 2 long stout wrenches to work against each other for good leverage.

The shiny one is a cheap Spin Dr. that has worked fine ever since I got it. The one in the pics with the wrenches is a Sugino as is the small one and the dark one is a Park that works ok too, have a Campy somewhere that also works ok .

Altogether not cheap though, quality tools that get the job done right never are but usually justify the outcome.

Way back, I bought the Park CWP-7 which has worked out great. Unbeaten. At the shop, when I play at bike mechanic, all they have are the other Park pullers with the “convenient” built in handle. Lovely but this old fart cannot, at times, get enough leverage to start the pull. The cwp-7 accepts all sorts of wrenches and, if needed, extensions to improve leverage. Very controlled action. Well made and reliable.

I always use one of the many tooth brushes on the bench to clean out the threads on the crank and the puller first then lube the puller a bit.

Another vote for the Park CWP-7, you won’t find a better tool for under 20 bucks and it’s far superior to the version with the handle.

Huh, never occurred to me to use two wrenches. I don't think I ever saw any of the other mechanics I have worked with do that either, in my almost 30 years in the bike biz.

Not saying it's bad advice, it might even be better than my one-wrench method, I'm just saying it's not as necessary as your post implies. I have never been stumped trying to get a crank off, and I've never stripped one (that I can recall). I think it's safe to say I've taken cranks off a thousand times since my first over 50 years ago, so my method must be adequate.

Maybe I'll try your way next time I have a tight one though, it will let me use a longer lever, compared to just holding onto the crank. These old hands aren't as immortal as they used to be. Thanks for the idea.

I'm trying to think of some reason why the stress on the crankarm threads would be different; the extractor MUST push the crankarm threads away from the axle.
Proper use, of course, means the extractor is seated; but even were it not, once the screw contacts the axle and takes up any remaining thread clearance the situation is unchanged.

I wonder if the poster thinks that that stress is greater because the friction between the screw and the extractor might make the extractor turn in the crankarm (even though seated) and the helix angle of the extractor thread is thus putting extra stress on it.

Which looks like a stretch in both senses...

Another vote for puller without the integrated handle, easier to start straight, and can use a large wrench for more comfort/leverage. The only time I had any issue was when I did not clean out the filthy threads on a crankset and thus could/did not screw the puller in far enough, since then I have paid close attention to making sure the puller is all the way screwed in and confirming that visually by confirming most of the threads on the puller are in the crank.

The Park puller with the handle was all I ever used or needed in my 10 years as a wrench.

I'm truly disappointed to learn that a tool I've used for 40+ years is inadequate. I simply don't know what to do.

In many decades of bike maintenance I have NEVER seen (in print or IRL) a mechanic EVER using the Merziac Two-Wrench method . . . tres bizarre !

On older bikes I've seen a number of times where the mounting bolt was removed, but the little washer was left in the arm. That leads to the remover threads being stripped when using the puller.
Newer bikes usually have the one-piece 8mm hex bolts that don't have those washers.

I have about half dozen pullers, but my favorite is an inexpensive Lifu from around 25 years ago.

I have a puller with a triangular handle I love. Also I have a double ended for t.a. and stronglight. Both are wonderful.

Seems to me that the idea behind (underneath?) the Merziac Multiwrench Method is that the wrench on the tool flats will tend to drive the tool into the crankarm, keeping it from moving outward from the force of the extractor's "plunger" part. If the threaded part can't move relative to the threads, it can't strip them.

I have no idea whether or not it actually works, but the theory seems sound. It was actually a bit of a head-slapper for me.

--Shannon

The Park tool, like similar others, has wrench flats on it for tightening into the crank arm. It ain't going anywhere. It only needs to be used properly. KWIM ?
More complicated than a hammer but not much.

I have a Pedros puller (it was less expensive than Park at the time) that I've had for many yrs, which I thought had become mis-placed...then reappeared shortly after purchasing a Park Cp-22.

With clean threads, no hidden washer they both work fine. The thin handles you can use the box end of a wrench for leverage if needed.

I keep various sizes of white PVC handy for added leverage for most everything. Campy or Park puller.
Make sure to put a thin coat of grease on the square taper, prior to reinstalling. Makes removal a snap.

Another advantage of the "two hexes" no handle pullers is that you can apply air impact to the screw.
Impact is easier and a whole lot less likely to mess up on any tight fit.
(until it doesn't)

Battery impact wrenches work now, too!

The best answer is to install self extracting crank bolts and never have to use a puller again.

We all have our process and do what works for us, I started using 2 wrenches way back on a stubborn one, it worked much better for me so I do it every time instead of winding it up and not being able to get it off or pulling threads out of the arm.

I know the flats are for threading it into the crank, I like to get them snug, I use them for the backstop wrench as well.

As I've stated many times, I have decades of experience as FoMoCo and ASE Senior Master Technician, bikes all my life and Drag racing mc's for 30 years.

I've seen a lot, done a lot, saved a lot, solved a lot, avoided a lot, made a lot and fixed a lot doing this so YMMV.

Indeed you have!

Would you say that the Sugino is your favorite? I do like the symmetry of using it on a Sugino crank, and they do make good stuff. Worth the extra 6 or 7 bucks over the Park or Pedro's?

--Shannon

Maybe, but it is not always ideal, it has a blunt interface on the forcing screw that galls a bit more than I like if the crank is stubborn, I have just always attributed it to sacrificial attrition.

Hate to admit it but the Park is the best all around atmo in general.

All crank pullers suck... the crank off the spindle. If all goes well...

Every mechanic knows the only reliable way for a tool to fall back out of the Multi-Dimensional Void of Missingness is to purchase its replacement.

I deal almost exclusively with square-taper spindles at home and the nonprofits. I keep a M8x1 stud made by beheading an old crank bolt in my crank tool bag to act as an anvil for the extractor so as to avoid damage to the spindle threads if the going gets difficult.

No need to be disappointed, the tool was obviously never inadequate as you never needed anything else and didn't need to explore another facet of the tool, lucky you to be so good at it.

Well I've NEVER, EVER seen anybody else do it either but I've also NEVER, EVER had anybody think it wasn't a good idea including many other very capable, experienced techs and mechanics.

Aside from all that, I've NEVER, EVER worried about whether anybody agreed with my way of doing something, especially when I have decided my way is better for me, the customer, operation, tools, parts, pieces, etc.

As a flat rate mech, tech, etc, you answer only to yourself unless you screw it up, I very rarely EVER answered to anyone else.

Luck? Probably just knows what he's doing.

The Campagnolo crank puller with the "peanut butter" wrench has always worked for me.