I need to go into this with confidence.
 

I just received this Suntour V-GT Luxe from eBay ($10 +) and notice the B-limit screw is bent. If BF-C&V didn't exist, I'd just grab it without thinking with pliers and show the screw who is boss. But since you are here to advise, please do so. I plan to remove the fixing bolt and find a nut or two that will thread on the screw and then grab it with pliers and straighten it out. Cool? This will go on my Le Champion when I put it back together for the Central Coast Classico.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...de735b8a3.jpeg

If you can't find the correct nut(s), I wonder if a small plastic drywall anchor would be enough to protect the threads?

You ought to be able to source a replacement B-screw from your local hardware store if they carry the Hillman line of fasteners.

Bigger issue is cutting the bent screw off BEFORE you try to remove it so as to avoid bunging up the threads on your new acquisition's aluminum housing body,

I have a 'spare" VG-T Luxe I'll take a look at in the morning, see if I cant't give you an idea of what the metric fastener specs are for that part.

On the VG-T Luxe I mounted on my '72 Motobecane GR I had to go to an M5 B-screw before it would align properly with the B-Screw boss on the Campy dropout. Otherwise what I think was an M4 would only catch about 1/4 of that lug.

Recollection has the original as an M5 - 0.50 where I instead re-tapped for an M6 - 1.0 stainless cap screw. There's plenty of metal on the boss holding the B-Screw's threads for this, at least on my two examples....

I concur with this. You’re unlikely to straighten it sufficiently to prevent the deformed threads from causing a mess in your derailleur. If you’re determined to try straightening it, I strongly advise extreme caution when attempting to back it out. If it resists, it’s highly probable that it will assert its dominance by damaging your derailleur.

Personally, I'd cut that off flush, back out the rest, and replace the screw. Should be readily available at a good hardware store

Ifn U tweak it with an aluminum tube and back it out a turn or less at a time you should be able to get it straightened out and out of the body.

Take out the complete nut and mounting bolt for room to work.

I am usually able to save dropout screws that "expletive" folks can't seem to screw in and save on bare frames, ruining original screws that could have lived on to fight another day. :troll:

One of my biggest pet peeve's of this whole C+V deal. :twitchy:

Yep, or that. ;)

That machine screw shows a good break line at 165% magnification on my monitor. It's most likely to snap under any straightening attempt.
I agree with what the others are telling you- get the nut and bolt assembly off first. See if you can run that bent screw in far enough to expose good threads, and cut it off.

-D.S.

I see no reason to cut it off and remove if you can straighten it enough to work as a proper B screw. Just get a little lever under there, e.g., a screwdriver blade, and give it a gentle lift.

Same image with shadow detail brought out:

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...47e5113904.jpg

I agree with D.S., that B-screw's likely already cracked if not outright broken.

If $10 is all you have in it... what you do next is entirely up to you.

Not a crack. Just a bit of rust and shadow. I went the bend route. If I need a longer screw, I'll need to cut this one to remove it.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...38add3513.jpeg
I found a nut but it did not match this.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9d6b6fc5c.jpeg
Vise grips were a bad idea but they got me started.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...693f2820f.jpeg
Found this sleeve which was safer.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...06dcc46fa.jpeg
I can imagine now how the screw got buggered.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...af33ee451.jpeg
Plan on running a 30 tooth big cog so I should be good to go.

Classtime, what route are you planning to ride, Jade or the longer and steeper Limestone route? Have you ridden them or similar before and how is your climbing? What front rings are you running, do you have a triple? And is this a long cage rear V-GT Luxe derailleur?

I found for my tired old legs, I was better with a 28T front triple ring mated to a rear 34 large cog in 2019 and 2023 which helped me get up most of Cypress Mountain after 54 miles already. But I’m not a strong climber by any means.

The Limestone route adds Kiler Canyon before Cypress Mountain so it’s a bit more work too. You might not need it, but a bailout lowest gear could come in handy. The V-GT Luxe with its long cage can handle up to a 34T cog with ease.

I plan to ride the Limestone Route and have done the EroicaCA long route 4 times. 5 times if I include the year that I also did the Saturday long ride. The Sunday ride, I always rode with C&V road gears because I felt that was the point: 52/42-13/24 and I walked parts of Cypress and Kiler--especially that one year with all the ruts on Kiler and that long final pitch to the top of the Kiler climb is Killer. When I did the Saturday Nova ride, I had a compact for a 34/ 28 and never walked. We are running out of time and my Le Champion is prepared for fresh paint. Not sure what I'll ride. The V-GT Luxe is now on my PA-10E and will be set up for trailer hauling duty with a Mountain LX 48-38-28 when some chain ring spacers show up this next week. Maybe that will get the nod with a 14,18,22,26,30 in the back. Could be fun. We'll see. Whatever I ride, I'll be using SPDs:eek:. I'm now 12 weeks post open heart surgery and felt pretty good today for 37 miles and 3400 feet. 6 weeks to go. See you there?

Wow, I am 2.5 weeks post open heart, gives me something to look forward to at 12 weeks. Good job straightening that screw.

wish I could be there but have to stay home due to caring for my handicapped daughter and her dialysis needs. Hope to contribute monetarily to support the ride though.

you definitely sound like a capable climber so a triple with a 28 and rear 30 should be plenty.