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I've purchased a Specialized Hardrock for $20 and had to replace a lot of components to restore and get it ride worthy; but it is now a fairly nice riding bicycle.
I believe it may be a 1993 model but I am not totally sure? Is anyone familar with Specialized Hardrock bicycles, frame colors and their dates of manufacture? http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...id=38870&stc=1 http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...id=38871&stc=1 1993 Specialized Hardrock? Sizes: 14.5, 16.5, 18, 20, 22. Womens: 16, 19 (24" wheel). Frame Angles: 70 head, 70 seat Frame Construction: TIG-welded steel Frame Tubing Material: Chrome-moly, outer-butted seat tube Color: Metallic Blue/Green Frame Size: 20" Fork: Rigid Crmo Steel Bottom Bracket: Cup & Cone Bearings - Spindle YST-3P Cr-VD 117mm – original Bottom Bracket: Shimano LP28 68x118mm – 2005 replacement Hub Rear: Sovos 130mm – original? Spokes Rear: 14g - 2.0 - Drive side 265mm-266mm - Non Drive side 268mm-269mm Rim Rear: Wienmann – original? Hub Rear: Formula 135mm - (replacement rear wheel 2005) Rim Rear: Alexrims X101 36 spokes - (replacement rear wheel 2005) Hub Front: Joytech 930 Rim Front: ARAYA 36 spokes Freewheel: Shimano 6 speed 14-28 - original Freewheel: 6 speed 14-28 - DNP LONG BICYCLE PARTS 224 - DNP LONG Y1H CO. - 2005 replacement Chain: SRAM PC-48 8 speed – 2005 replacement Shifters: Shimano Altus C20 6 speed SIS Brake Levers: Shimano Altus C20 Brakes: Shimano Cantilever Derailleur Front: Shimano Altus C20 28.6 Clamp Derailleur Rear: Shimano Altus C20 Crankset: Shimano Altus C20, 28/38/48 teeth Saddle: Specialized Stem: ? Stem: CroMo TIG 40-degree rise Headset: ? Handlebar: ? Seatpost: Performance Forte 26.8mm (black) 2005 replacement |
I've added some pictures. . . I need some help to confirm the year of manufacture; which I believe is 1993?
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Dude that is a great bike...Really solid and can hold up. Altus and SIS Shimano Comps are ok not the best not the worst. It looks to me like early 90s. I would just get a new seat and put an older fork on it something 1 " and call it a day.
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Originally Posted by wasabiboys
Dude that is a great bike...Really solid and can hold up. Altus and SIS Shimano Comps are ok not the best not the worst. It looks to me like early 90s. I would just get a new seat and put an older fork on it something 1 " and call it a day.
All the parts disassembled easily; which made it enjoyable to repair. So I completely disassembled it and greased all the bearings, stem and seat post. The original headset seems to be in fine condition, easily adjustable and smooth turning. I trued the original rear wheel straight but it required some uneven spoke tensioning and many of the spoke nipples were rusted and required replacement so I decided to replace the wheel instead. It appears to have been kept indoors as the paint is chipped from usage but there is no rust inside the frame. The frame appears to be in good shape overall. The paint appears to change colors; metallic blue and or metallic green depending on the lighting conditions. I have replaced the Rear wheel, Seat post, Chain, Cables, BB, Freewheel, Handlebar grips and Pedals. The seat is torn at the edges but it's functional. The price of restoration to this point is $112 in parts. It rides smooth and quiet with reborn spirit. . . |
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I`ve got a 1990 HardRock. It had 7sp Shimano's Rapidfire first generation. Specs were:
Frame: "Lipstick" red.Cro-Mo main tubes Fork: Hi-Ten. Double eyelets. Rear wheel: Araya MP-22 silver rim on Shimano GS-200 hub. 36 spokes (not stainless) Front wheel: Same Araya rim on Joytech hub Cassette: 7sp Shimano HG-50 (13-30) Crankset: Shimano Biopace GS-200 28-39-48, alloy cranks, steel rims Derailleurs: Shimano GS-200 Stem and bars: Cro-Mo, high rise (about 40º) stem Pedals: plastic VP Tires: 26x1.75" Specialized Crossroads II Brakes: Shimano plastic cantil's GS-200 Levers: Plastic Shimano STI Seatpost: steel Most of the original components went away very soon (too much plastic around), others have survived and made etheir way into other bikes. The frame is very tough and good enough to make a 26" long lasting tourer. The two pics show what it looked like and what it has evolved into. |
My elder son's circa 1992 Hardrock is silver with bright red "HardRock" downtube decals and SRAM grip shifters. It has a microdrive (small BCD) crankset with 22-32-42 chainrings, plus a 7-speed 13-28 freewheel. Although the hubs have sealed bearings, the original bottom bracket did not. He has always really liked the bike since I bought it used for him several years ago, although at 5'11" he is almost too tall for its 17" frame.
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It's interesting that the Hardrocks mentioned are older than I thought mine to be; but they are 7 speed.
If the gearing was originally 7 speed on the two previously mentioned Hardrocks; maybe mine is a bit older? I thought that it is 1993 because of the time period of the Shimano Altus C20 6 speed shifters. The metallic paint appears to change colors; blue and or green depending on the lighting conditions. |
My son's Hardrock is no older than 1992, but it may be somewhat later than that. Does anyone know how to decode Specialized serial numbers?
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The serial number appears to be P R 8 L 9 5 5 7 or P R 3 L 9 5 5 7 or P R B L 9 5 5 7
The third number is difficult to determine as there is a nick right the middle of the 8 or 3 which ever it may be. There is some possiblity that it may be the letter B |
Yeah to John E I would maybe get rid of Grip Shifters...To many problems with those things cracking and such. Also wildjim you only spent 112 Bucks and you got a really nice bike....I would just get a Fork!
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Originally Posted by wasabiboys
Yeah to John E I would maybe get rid of Grip Shifters...To many problems with those things cracking and such. Also wildjim you only spent 112 Bucks and you got a really nice bike....I would just get a Fork!
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Did you ever find out?
I found the same model bike (minus tires/seatpost saddle) sitting near a dumpster a few weeks ago. I was wondering if you ever figured out the year? I'm thinking about making it a commuter.
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Originally Posted by John E
(Post 1545537)
My elder son's circa 1992 Hardrock is silver with bright red "HardRock" downtube decals and SRAM grip shifters. It has a microdrive (small BCD) crankset with 22-32-42 chainrings, plus a 7-speed 13-28 freewheel. Although the hubs have sealed bearings, the original bottom bracket did not. He has always really liked the bike since I bought it used for him several years ago, although at 5'11" he is almost too tall for its 17" frame.
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http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=250669 This is a pic of the bike; I'm stoked by how great a shape it was in and it will make a great bike for my daughter.
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I just bought the same bike last weekend at a yard sale. It had never been ridden. Still had stickers on the brakes. Color is green/blue. Just needed lube on the shifters for the pawl to catch. Bought it for my girlfriend and it's a great bike. Feel very lucky. I know this is an old thread, but happy to find others with the bike. My research says that 93 was the only year they used that c20 shifter. I've owned 2 other hard rocks from that era and none had the c20
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I just had one of these given to me. My family knows I like bikes so random ones show up every now and then.
Mines a 93 17 inch frame (I think) green to blue paint that's a little beat up. I'm going to try a full resto-mod on this. The shifter s and brakes were needing some love anyway and I have a bunch of 9 speed stuff already. New wheels, hubs, bb, headset, touring bar, from amazon. I have deore brake shifters, lx crank, Stx front derailleur, deore rear derailleur and grips. Some spray paint and labor should have this looking pretty nice. I'll be in around $200 for a pretty comfortable cro-mo frame. |
Originally Posted by Stevengines
(Post 19433775)
I just had one of these given to me. My family knows I like bikes so random ones show up every now and then.
Mines a 93 17 inch frame (I think) green to blue paint that's a little beat up. I'm going to try a full resto-mod on this. The shifter s and brakes were needing some love anyway and I have a bunch of 9 speed stuff already. New wheels, hubs, bb, headset, touring bar, from amazon. I have deore brake shifters, lx crank, Stx front derailleur, deore rear derailleur and grips. Some spray paint and labor should have this looking pretty nice. I'll be in around $200 for a pretty comfortable cro-mo frame. |
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Thanks! I've got it stripped down and trying to decide on paint or just reassemble.
Great forum! Lots of good stuff! |
Nice color! Is the paint in good condition? If not, try to find a match of paint. I was lucky with mine. I treated the rust (what I could) with naval jelly, covered the original decals, painted a few coats then clear coated. It works.
http://i65.tinypic.com/20rmjns.jpg |
I like that red ! The decals on mine were beat up. A few small rusty spots from were the paint got scratched. I actually started sanding.
It won't really be a hardrock when I'm done anyway. I'll try to find a couple specialized stickers. |
Originally Posted by Stevengines
(Post 19435303)
I like that red ! The decals on mine were beat up. A few small rusty spots from were the paint got scratched. I actually started sanding.
It won't really be a hardrock when I'm done anyway. I'll try to find a couple specialized stickers. |
I've sampled a few. I think a stark glossy white. I was sanding the cranks to paint black, but then realized they looked awesome polished. I stepped through 400-2000 grit sandpaper for the crank arms. Had a polished big ring black middle and steel small.
I think it'll be fun. My dad showed up though for a repair on his and found a crack in the aluminum rear triangle(on an older gt) can it be tig welded? |
White sounds good. I think black cranks would have looked good too to contrast the white. But at least you have one of the rings in black.
No idea about the aluminum welding. I'm sure someone will chime in on that. |
Primer and first coat. Looking pretty good for the cost of elbow grease and a few cans of spray paint.
I suppose if I can't fix that older gt. This bike will become a sweet hardtail with most of the parts from that bike. |
I'm not sure on the welding. It feels like if just be prolonging a slow death.
But, I won't feel to bad if the parts can live on! |
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