Little Darwin

I have won a bid on a 1979 Suburban, and it is supposed to be in good shape, but I really don't care too much because I am willing to put time and effort into making it into all that it can be... starting with the addition of a Brooks saddle.

Thanks to the members here for inadvertently confirming for me the wisdom of my choice, like the current thread on a 1973 Suburban being back on the road.

I expect this to be a daily rider (I have no delusions of making money by restoring a gas pipe bike) so I am curious about how a few of my ideas sound to the rest of you. Of course my priorities will be primarily set by what needs to be done to make the bike road worthy, but I am curious about other aspects to consider.

First, the drive train, I plan to keep the Positron derailleur, and have in fact bid on an extra. But, I am curious about whether the current freewheel configuration should be changed just to make it more "normal." My concern is based on long term maintenance issues. Are parts for the freewheel crank and rear cluster available? What clusters (freewheel or otherwise) can be fit on the rear wheel? Can a non-freewheel crank be easily used while retaining the possibility of moving back? If so what should I look for? I like the thought of a front freewheel, but I am curious about other opinions about keeping it and/or changing it.

I will possibly get into hot rodding it by replacing the wheels and going to drop bars... Opinions? I am especially interesed in good braking due to my size, so I am seriously considering replacing at least the front wheel to one with an alloy rim... Anything else I should consider for maximizing braking power on this bike?

Noah Scape

Have you ever used or set up a Positron? I'd say before you become too devoted to it, spend a little time with it, and then see what you think. As far as the rear cluster (which is not a freewheel, as you know), I'm sure you can replace it with a freewheeling freewheel. I think the freewheeling bottom bracket/crank can also be replaced with a standard Ashtabula setup. Or, you could replace the bottom bracket and leave the fixed cluster and have a multi-gear fixie! Alloy wheels would be a big improvement, but not absolutely necessary... if you're budget conscious.

Little Darwin

Noah Scape (BTW - I love your username!),

I hadn't even considered the possibility of a 10 speed fixie.... What an interesting idea! Of course I could do freewheel on front and rear and turn it into an anti-fixie too.

I will try the Positron for a while, I may be too spoiled by modern indexed shifting to go back to friction shifting, but I won't hesitate to go that route (or go to a shifter based SIS setup) if I find the Positron problematic.

Budget is always an issue, but not at the expense of making or keeping the bike fun to ride.

Thanks for your input!

Noah Scape

[QUOTE=dgregory57]
I will try the Positron for a while, I may be too spoiled by modern indexed shifting to go back to friction shifting, but I won't hesitate to go that route (or go to a shifter based SIS setup) if I find the Positron problematic.QUOTE]


Positron is trapped in a void between friction and index. It does not work like friction and aspires to be index but in no way resembles its more contemporary and functional relations.

cruentus

If I were planning on riding this bike regularly, I'd convert it to a modern three piece crank and lace new alloy rims to the the hubs.

If you think that the Positron stuff may become collectible one day, save it -- and the old steel rims. It would be a relatively easy task to reinstall those bits to bring the bike back to its original configuration.

Little Darwin

I'm never expecting to get enough collector value to worry about keeping the bike stock.

I bought a NOS 1980ish Univega that has no noticeable rust anywhere (surface or otherwise). Even though the rims are steel, I think I might expedite getting the Suburban on the road by transplanting the wheels until I decide what to do permanently.

Other than the wheels, the bike looks very restorable (the wheels aren't terrible, but since I basically have a new set, I might make that move). I will then work on the surface rust for handlebars, stem etc as part of a total disassembly, repacking of bearings and reassembly.

Does anyone know what to expect when taking tires off of old rims? Is there usually rust awaiting inside too??? This is my fear. The outside looks restorable, and in fact I actually prefer the slightly pitted side walls for braking, but I am afraid of what may be waiting for me.

Also, concerning the fenders I have a question as well. The fenders themselves are in good condition (nice paint and only a couple of small dings) but the rivets that come through are rusted... Does anyone have suggestions for cleaning the rust from the rivets without damaging the fenders? Or am I being too picky?

Thanks for the continued help!

As You Like It

When I took the tires off mine, there was a little surface rust inside, but nothing a little scrubbing with a wire brush couldn't take care of. I threw away the old rubber rim strip and replaced it with the adhesive fabric kind.

I used rubbing compound, like you'd use on an old car with an oxidized paint job to clean up the chome on the handlebars, etc. It should probably do for the rivets on the fenders, as well, though you might try a little bit of emery cloth wrapped around the tip of your finger and twisted back and forth on each rivet.

I'm toying with the idea of laying down a coat of Turtle Wax on the paint job of my bike. I touched up the paint with some nail polish that I had that was a good match for the paint, but now those touch-ups look so much cleaner and shinier than the rest of the 32-year-old paint!

cruentus

If the rusty rivets really bother you, you can always drill them out and replace them with aluminum pop rivets.