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Totally Tubular

Old 12-29-21, 07:41 PM
  #2201  
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Originally Posted by majmt View Post
Hey Jim, I just got an email notification that FMB silk-casing tubulars were back in stock. $$$, but the Paris Roubaix model would match nicely with those Nemesis rims. I just ordered a pair of 30mm and getting ready to build up of Nemesis rims for my Cino bike. I have two sets of Nemesis wheels built up for other bikes and love ‘em.

https://www.renehersecycles.com/prod...tires/tubular/
LOL have been looking at those.... but not for CINO bike...... hmmm I could hand spread the cino bike and friction shift 11 speed... nope think I just have to lose enough weight I can use the 6 speed wheels with mavic gel 330 ...which even then might be too light for Cino
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Old 01-02-22, 07:20 AM
  #2202  
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Originally Posted by majmt View Post
Hey Jim, I just got an email notification that FMB silk-casing tubulars were back in stock. $$$, but the Paris Roubaix model would match nicely with those Nemesis rims. I just ordered a pair of 30mm and getting ready to build up of Nemesis rims for my Cino bike. I have two sets of Nemesis wheels built up for other bikes and love ‘em.

https://www.renehersecycles.com/prod...tires/tubular/

Whoah !! $169 for a single tire. That is an investment right there. I thought you could get certain Challenge tubulars in silk (or was it Veloflex?). I will check the Bike24 website which is where I think I saw them.

Found it: Challenge Strada Bianchi Setas for just under 80 euros (30 mm width) - realize they may not be handbuilt to the same level as the FMB but much more affordable.

They also have FMB tubulars but I did not see any in 30mm on the bike24 site. I did see an FMB Paris Roubaix 27mm width tubular for ~ 84 euro (cotton).

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Old 01-05-22, 08:36 AM
  #2203  
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Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh View Post
I finally had time to glue and mount these on my Lotus Super Pro Aero. Thanks so much for the tip smontanaro .


Weather and Christmas travel will keep me from test riding until after December 26th. Can't wait!
Best laid plans....

Last week when I returned from Christmas travel, I deflated the Vittoria Corsa tublars to add sealant and when I went to reinflate a leak developed in the rear wheel! It sounds as if it is where the valve stem and tube are joined. Of course (sic) the sealant doesn't work there.

Has anyone had any luck returning defective tubulars to Vittoria for exchange, or should I just plan to replace the tube?

At least I had an appropriate spare set of tubular wheels which just needed the old glue stripped and cleaned, and tires mounted thanks to a purchase last year from jdawginsc . A pair of Roval aero wheels with bladed spokes and hi-lo freewheel hub.

I had Vittoria Rallys on hand (Mrs. PB has implemented a purchase freeze on me), so those were what were glued and mounted. I had a Dura Ace 7 speed freewheel, but interestingly, the spacing is not the same as the DA 7 speed cassette. Saying my prayers that shifting will be okay. I'll find out today or tomorrow when I take it for a ride.



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Old 01-06-22, 07:17 AM
  #2204  
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The air will often come out at the stem because the tape seals the rest of the tire pretty well. I patch my Tubulars but others have used https://www.tirealert.com/

IME, sealant doesn't work as well as a patch. I have used it on the road or before a $$$ century length event but not on a leak discovered at home.
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Old 01-06-22, 07:59 AM
  #2205  
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Classtime thanks for these tips and the link to Tire Alert.

This was actually my first time to ever use a sealant on a new, unridden tire (I've used Vittoria Pitstop a couple of times while out on a ride, with mixed results).

The tire held air when I pre-stretched it prior to gluing and adding the sealant. I'm assuming the leak is at the valve stem because that is the only part of tube which has seen any stress when I inflated the tire.

I did email Excel Sports (where I purchased the tires) and have had no response so far. I plan to email Vittoria directly if Excel Sports doesn't offer me anything.

Since I only paid $39 (tire+shipping+tax) for a tire which has a retail price of $130 (before shipping and tax), I will still be ahead if I send it to Tire Alert and have them replace the tube for another $39 (their price + my shipping). Or I might just try replacing or patching the tube myself.
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Old 01-06-22, 04:59 PM
  #2206  
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Excel Sports has some good sale prices on tubular tires. Primarily Continental and Vittoria. Narrow Vittorias have the best price.
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Old 01-10-22, 12:12 PM
  #2207  
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With 89 pages and over 2200 posts, even with a "search this thread" I was not able to find the info so here is the question.
Do you sand paper the rim before applying glue? I use Mastik from Vittoria and the instructions state to sand the rim surface the glue will be applied to. First time reading the directions!
New rims and new tires. 1 layer on each with a second layer on the rim after 24 hours. Apply then cures in another 24. I can do that!
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Old 01-10-22, 12:21 PM
  #2208  
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Yes SJX426, I do roughen up the rim a little bit with sandpaper before applying glue. Then wipe sandpaper dust off with dry rag. Tubulars Rule!
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Old 01-10-22, 12:42 PM
  #2209  
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Originally Posted by SJX426 View Post
Do you sand paper the rim before applying glue?
I never have. Have never had problems. I suppose, in theory, that sanding the rims might marginally increase surface area for the glue. More probably, it would remove any residue that would reduce adhesion.
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Old 01-10-22, 01:00 PM
  #2210  
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OK well what grit, 100?
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Old 01-10-22, 01:09 PM
  #2211  
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It is very difficult to remove glue from un-sanded rims. I would rather not make it more difficult. You do want to remove all oils and dirt--I use acetone a clean rag and go around a few times.
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Old 01-10-22, 01:40 PM
  #2212  
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As an update to my Lotus Super Pro Aero and tubular adventures:

So far Excel Sports have been very helpful. Several quick email exchanges and Tyler in Customer Services told me the bad Vittoria Corsa Speed G+ will be a warranty exchange. I had to pay the $13+ to send it back (Priority plus insurance). Hopefully I'll have a replacement in short order.

In the meantime I've ridden the Lotus with the Roval wheelset and the Vittoria Rallys twice. Since this is my first time to ride Rallys, and the last time I was on other tubulars (Schwalbe One) was six months ago, I can only compare the Rallys to the 27 X 1 & 1/8 Vittoria Zaffarios on my Schwinn Super Sport.

Comparing the Super Sport to the Super Pro Aero is like comparing a Lincoln to a Mustang, or a Buick to a Camaro. The weight difference is probably 6-7 pounds and the wheel weight alone is probably 1/2 to 1 pound greater (just guessing here).

All I can say is the ride on the Lotus is so much faster, the handling quicker, and the frame so much stiffer. According to the bike app, I'm riding the same route about 1.5 mph faster on average (about 25 miles). In some sections I'm averaging 2-2.5 mph faster. Is it the aero tubing and the Dura Ace AX gear? Or is it the weight difference? My bet is on the weight difference and the Rallys.

When I eventually try the significantly more expensive and lighter Corsa Speed G+s on the DA-AX Faimme rims, I'll see if average speed changes.
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Old 01-10-22, 07:20 PM
  #2213  
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Originally Posted by Classtime View Post
It is very difficult to remove glue from un-sanded rims. I would rather not make it more difficult. You do want to remove all oils and dirt--I use acetone a clean rag and go around a few times.
I've found a wire wheel on a bench grinder makes short work of this, less than a minute per wheel, no solvents or scrubbing needed.
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Old 01-11-22, 02:15 AM
  #2214  
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A Dremel with a brass wire wheel attachment also works quickly and efficiently:





Note there was no anodizing loss; I used an adjustable-speed Dremel at medium speed:



DD
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Old 01-11-22, 02:40 AM
  #2215  
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I tried cleaning my rims with a dremel/brass wheel and the glue got clogged up in the brass. Kept having to stop and pick it out until it finally got clogged up beyond repair. That was a fail.
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Old 01-11-22, 07:34 AM
  #2216  
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As we all like to say, YMMV.

My two cents worth of advice: Be careful with the wire wheels due to the wheel flinging loose wire "missiles" in every direction. Wear good eye, even full-face protection. Be aware that the tiny "missiles" from the Dremel models can end up on the floor in "stealth mode," waiting to attack bare feet, weeks, even months later, somehow avoiding detection, defensive sweeps, and proactive vacuuming.

I know this because Mrs. PB got one lodged in her foot (it was painful, and she was not happy), after I had sworn off using them six months prior. I've even found the wires embedded in my work shirts and socks after running them through the wash. I feel fortunate to have never had one in my eye.
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Old 01-11-22, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh View Post
My two cents worth of advice: Be careful with the wire wheels due to the wheel flinging loose wire "missiles" in every direction. Wear good eye, even full-face protection. Be aware that the tiny "missiles" from the Dremel models can end up on the floor in "stealth mode," waiting to attack bare feet, weeks, even months later, somehow avoiding detection, defensive sweeps, and proactive vacuuming.
I used a wire brush drill attachment outdoors... good point about the eye protection though - always.
I imagine this wouldn't work so well if the glue is still gooey, but the dried up hard stuff comes off pretty well.
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Old 01-12-22, 12:29 AM
  #2218  
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Originally Posted by DiabloScott View Post
I used a wire brush drill attachment outdoors... good point about the eye protection though - always.

I imagine this wouldn't work so well if the glue is still gooey, but the dried up hard stuff comes off pretty well.

A wire wheel works for dried, fossilized stuff. If it's thick enough, you can sometimes crack most of it off with something like the stubby screwdriver with the broken tip (from using it as a pry bar) we all keep in the toolbox just for these situations.


If the glue still flexible, the wire wheel doesn't work as well. Use a heat gun to heat one section of the rim (between adjacent spoke holes) until the glue bubbles, them wipe it off with a disposable shop rag. Let it cool for a bit, then wipe that section again with with some VM&P naphtha on a separate rag to get the clumps off. Once you've gone all way around the rim, use a fresh rag with naphtha (no more heating needed) to remove any residual glue.

Of course, do this outdoors, use gloves and eye protection, and be careful about fire safety. And I wouldn't try this on carbon rims.

VM&P naphtha works better than acetone (too volatile). VM&P = "Varnish Maker's & Painter's". I have never met a Varnish Maker. Varnish making may be a lost art. Huffing naphtha all day can't be conducive to a long career.
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Old 01-12-22, 07:38 AM
  #2219  
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It seems appropriate that I post this link again. Effetto Mariposa Carogna Remover. Non-toxic, very little odor, cleans up with water, and somewhat pricey.

It's a gel that is spread over the old glue. Leave it overnight on old, fossilized glue. A couple of hours on newer glue. I clean with a green 3M scrub pad and water.

While at the site, check out their gluing tape. I used it to mount my tires on both wheelsets for the Lotus. I'm very pleased. Now I must admit I'm not an aggressive rider and all of my riding in GA is on flat terrain, so there is very little stress on the tires.
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