I should take pictures and cog spacing measurements of all the 7 speed Reginas I have, you'll see a big difference in all. Also the SIS 7 speed Shimano and you'll quickly understand the reason for the different tooth spacing on the index rings.

Syncro 7 speed on my Super Mondia
http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/...Prestidge2.jpg


http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/...ondia/Sat4.jpg

Here is the setup when first built, using a Shimano 7 speed SIS freewheel, according to the chart, it should work. Well it didn't , not with a compact Malliard, Sachs or a Regina CX or America. I was ready to swap in some Doppler Shifters I had. Then read my Sutherlands. Silly me I should have done that first. Then I read about the Regina Syncro 90-S and how they were made for the Campy Syncro system. The bike now has a Syncro 90-S, and shifts great.
http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/...Prestidge6.jpg

Is that the Athena derailleur you were talking about earlier? If so, it is not a slant parallelogram; but it is one of nicest looking derailleurs Campy made. Below is a picture of the slant parallelogram Athena (from Velobase.com).

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=312981

That is a drop slant parrallelogram . My Athena is just a slant parrallelogram.

You need to do a little more research. The Suntour patent for the slant parallelogram was for a drop parallelogram where the parallelogram is slanted to match the slant of the cogs from smaller to bigger; by the Suntour patent definition all slant parallelograms are also drop parallelograms (I believe Suntour actually trademarked the name). The Athena derailleur you have is an inline parallelogram with what Campagnolo called their "Lateral Operating system." In other words instead of the parallelogram being slanted, Campagnolo slanted the pivots.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=312997


Edit: An good example of the difference between a drop parallelogram and slant parallelogram is the below Campagnolo Chorus flyer from the same year as above (1988). In the "A" position the cage moves in almost a straight line, parallel to the rear wheel axle and below the level of the largest cog (I say almost because in the "A" position the parallelogram actually has a 5 deg slant, making the "A" position also a slant parallelogram). OTOH the photo on the right shows the parallelogram slanted down 30 deg. While it doesn't show the pulley over the small cogs, due to the slant, it would follow the contour of the cogs from small to large; riding only a 1-2mm over them. This opposed to the left side which (if it was 0 deg) the pulley would get farther from the cogs as the cogs get smaller.


http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=313103

May I ask why? Are these chains too precious to be used? I'm lucky I got some nos regina chains from a friend, also some 5s & 6s regina freewheels.and hesitating if I should use them or leave them only for show bikes.

I think there's a good reason why they stopped making those asymmetrical chains. Like the Regina freewheels, they don't shift especially well.

Back in the late 80's-early 90's I was on a team for a few years that was sponsored by Regina. We were supplied with cx/cxs freewheels and then America freewheels when they came out. The only real difference in the America was the little plastic ring and the proclamation that they were "sealed" The earlier Americas even had the cogs and bodies labelled "cx/cxs" under the ring. The freewheel bodies were nicely machined and put together and were quite an advancement over earlier Regina offerings. The cogs were very hard...you can't fault Regina for the life of their cogs. We got cx and cxs chains as well. The cxs was the weird assymetrical one. It was a decent shifting chain with a Campy Nuovo/Super Record setup because it was laterally stiff...way more so than a sedisport. Like the cogs, it was hard wearing. A little later we got some of the hollow pin America sl chains, but we asked for the older cx/cxs ones for their wear and reliability.

I don't know if it's just me, but Regina FWs always seem to be the hardest to remove from rear wheel hubs. It's been many times that it took so much effort with even my biggest adjustable wrench on the FW remover, that I swear I was either close to getting a hernia or busting one of my ribs with the amount of force I had to exert to get them off......
Did you guys experience the same back then?

[MENTION=426321]Chombi1[/MENTION], yes they could be the dickens to break loose, if the threads hadn't been greased or had anti- sieze applied they really got bonded. I don't know the specifics of the freewheel body's alloy so I can't even venture a guess why they did this with the hub's threads. I was afraid that the hub would break because of the leverage force the long cheater bar exerted. Ooopfftf

Bill

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...r.jpg~original

I picked up a vintage Davidson touring bike from either 1982 or 1983. It appears to have a Sachs-Huret drive train, and is a 5 speed with a triple up front and friction bar end shifters. (SunTour). Can you guys look at this and tell me if it is a Regina, or how I would figure it out, so I can figure out what freewheel tool I need? I may need to work on this one a while to get it off. :)

PS, it does not have that surface rust on it any more, as I cleaned all that up with a little WD-40, then re-lubed the drive train with my go to Tri-flow. It is not back spinning well, and you can see that lower pulley wheel is shot. I am a semi-novice at wrenching, so need help with this stuff. I can do a lot of basic things, and can swap out headsets, stems, have pulled some newer cassettes etc., but have not really done vintage work.

Is there a reason for the axle to be so far forward in the dropouts?

Yes indeed: http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...l#post12068136

Ridiculous. Don't believe everything you read on the internet.

A cheap offshore twist tooth freewheel will shift better than any Regina ever made. That's why all of my bikes wear Shimanos and my Reginas are in a drawer

Purely subjective, but I've always thought they were tight, too.

Grease the threads on a splined Regina and you won't have an issue getting it off the hub. I now have all splined-body Reginas (Oro, BX/CX) and I use a thin-walled remover with a big-ass crescent wrench. No problem.

I run them into the ground, have for years, and only suffered one strange failure of the splined portion of the body shearing on an almost-new unit. I call that a fluke. Overall, my drivetrains function exactly as they should. I don't understand where all the Regina hate comes from, honestly.

DD

+1, I understand some don't care for Regina freewheels, but lately its been approaching a high level of vitriol. Oh well, no harm done with words, to my way of thinking. I am fortunate that all of my experience with Regina's freewheels and their chains has been positive. Still using three of them now, two Extra 5-speed, and one Oro Extra 6-speed, as well as two of the Extra chains.

Shameless plug for [MENTION=42162]pastorbobnlnh[/MENTION] and his freewheel refresh service, well used Regina, and other makes' freewheels, made like or better than new. No affiliation, no compensation, unsolicited, just my opinion.

Bill

Well, I pulled the wheel and it turns out the freewheel is suntour. No worries. Those dropouts are vintage campy and came like that on this builder's custom touring bikes.

Agreed. For wear, a Regina has only one peer that I know of, and that is Maillard. The Japanese freewheel cogs had nowhere near the life of Regina...and the America bodies were really a step up and were as good as anything else made in the freewheel era.

[MENTION=110545]qcpmsame[/MENTION] thanks for the mention! :thumb: I always like servicing vintage 5 speed Regina freewheels because of the way the sprockets polish. Even the less expensive nickle ones can looks so good after 24 hours in the polishing machine. The Oro ones--- even better! :D

On the start ramp for a time trial....Obviously, Regina was a race sponsor!

Grave dig...

Thanks for this confirmation. I've been researching Syncro all afternoon. I have a Syncro II set of shifters that I was going to pair with a Regina Synchro 90-S and was wondering what colour insert suits. What chain would you recommend? I have a 1989 C Record rear derailleur if that makes any difference.

Keeping the Zombie thread alive
 

I found pastor Bob the freewheel medic from searching this thread and that alone is worth keeping this post alive and well. I also love the near silent operation of my Regina CX freewheels. Yesterday I did a group ride on my 1979 Gios Super Record and a rider on a Matt black carbon bike (they all seem to look like that now) rode up next to me and was so surprised he couldn’t hear my freewheel. “It’s so quiet”

At least he recognized it was a freewheel. When I talk to most modern riders about freewheels they rarely know what I'm talking about. They are familiar with cassettes. But a freewheel is a mystery.

Campagnolo had a Record Newsletter in the 1980’s that in one issue explained the insert colors and applications. Will answer much BUT, locating other inserts and or freewheels, could be an expensive or time consuming proposition.

Campagnolo freewheels now are $300 about, the special remover? Do you win at Keno?