Centurion Serial Number Database
#2101
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But it seems there are two distinct kinds:
(A)
* Metal headbadge
* Champion #4 tubing
* dark color on headtube / light everywhere else
* 'CENTURION' downtube decal all separate letters
Examples:
N3P5862
Yours (minus colors, which are different)
(B)
* Decal headbadge
* Tange 900 tubing
* light color on headtube / dark everywhere else
* 'UR' ligature on downtube graphic
Examples:
N3S9106 (not in this thread, and no pictures, but the Tange 900 is mentioned specifically)
N3S9133
N4B5201
It looks like they made the switch between P and S of '83 (around August?); maybe they started production for the new year's model, then made the cross-brand design (and tubing) changes shortly thereafter? That would also explain the relative rarity of the earlier type; they're '84 models with '83 styling.
(A)
* Metal headbadge
* Champion #4 tubing
* dark color on headtube / light everywhere else
* 'CENTURION' downtube decal all separate letters
Examples:
N3P5862
Yours (minus colors, which are different)
(B)
* Decal headbadge
* Tange 900 tubing
* light color on headtube / dark everywhere else
* 'UR' ligature on downtube graphic
Examples:
N3S9106 (not in this thread, and no pictures, but the Tange 900 is mentioned specifically)
N3S9133
N4B5201
It looks like they made the switch between P and S of '83 (around August?); maybe they started production for the new year's model, then made the cross-brand design (and tubing) changes shortly thereafter? That would also explain the relative rarity of the earlier type; they're '84 models with '83 styling.
The 1983 Pro Tour page looks like the same font as in 'A' above. The headbadge is a decal, but it is the same design as the stamped metal badge.
#2102
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@Lascauxcaveman had previously posted pages from a 1983 catalog for the Pro Tour and the Turbo. If he still has the full catalog, maybe he could verify if there was a 1983 Elite GT (and post the rest of the catalog too!).
The 1983 Pro Tour page looks like the same font as in 'A' above. The headbadge is a decal, but it is the same design as the stamped metal badge.
The 1983 Pro Tour page looks like the same font as in 'A' above. The headbadge is a decal, but it is the same design as the stamped metal badge.
I'm pretty sure my Lemans RS was Infinity, and quite certain my Turbo was Champion #1, chromed under the paint.
Hope that helps. I may have missed the earlier posts on the subject....
#2103
Senior Member
Judging by the wording in the '84 catalog dealing with the Elite GT, I'm going to stand behind the Elite GT being intro'ed in '84. Any differences are probably due to WSI trying to get a jump start on production in late '83.
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My bikes: '81 Trek 957, '83 Trek 720, '85 Trek 500, '85 Trek 770,'81 Merckx, '85 Centurion Cinelli, '85 Raleigh Portage, '92 RB-2, '09 Bianchi
My bikes: '81 Trek 957, '83 Trek 720, '85 Trek 500, '85 Trek 770,
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#2105
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No problem. I actually have a spare set of Master decals if you decide to go that route, I think the '88 version. My experience with Ironman re-do's is that a decent blast and powdercoat is appropriate, cheaper, and much more durable. Then build it and ride the heck out of it.
Question about a repaint/powdercoat: It looks like the frame was stored in humid conditions long enough to have a little surface rust inside the tubes. What would y'all recommend to take care of internal rust in preparation for a powdercoat? Should the frame be first stripped and then soaked in an oxalic acid bath before blasting?
This may be getting away from purely a Centurion S/N post, so feel free to redirect this conversation if necessary.
#2106
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Question about a repaint/powdercoat: It looks like the frame was stored in humid conditions long enough to have a little surface rust inside the tubes. What would y'all recommend to take care of internal rust in preparation for a powdercoat? Should the frame be first stripped and then soaked in an oxalic acid bath before blasting?
This may be getting away from purely a Centurion S/N post, so feel free to redirect this conversation if necessary.

#2107
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Is there a powdercoating outfit near Raleigh or Nashville you could recommend? I got a quote of $160 for a blast and coat with a "standard" color from a place here in Raleigh.
#2108
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An update on my Elite GT: I got some wheels! Also a rack, fenders, and some platform pedals:
Bike ride cropped.jpg
It's not as light anymore, but it rides great. I've been commuting on it for a couple of weeks now, and am just about getting the hang of the unindexed downtube Symmetric shifters. I ended up doing a less restoration work on it than I'd planned, because I just wanted to ride it!
Bike ride cropped.jpg
It's not as light anymore, but it rides great. I've been commuting on it for a couple of weeks now, and am just about getting the hang of the unindexed downtube Symmetric shifters. I ended up doing a less restoration work on it than I'd planned, because I just wanted to ride it!
#2110
Senior Member
RobbieTunes, fleslider, rccardr - thanks for the info and inspiration. I started work on the '87 Master?, and although it looks like the original paint was stripped before the bad black paint job, I can see white and yellow overspray inside the head tube and seat tube. Based on that, I'm going with '87 Ironman Master unless proven otherwise. It does appear to be a 62cm frame measured to the lowest point on the seat tube opening as per RobbieTunes, with a ST c-c of about 60.4cm. I checked the standover and I can just barely straddle the top tube, so I'll give it a shot. A 58cm or 60cm size would be ideal, but I'm sorta done with frames any smaller than that. I have a 56cm Steelman Stage Race from 1998 which I love, but it took some work to get the bars up to where I need them.
Question about a repaint/powdercoat: It looks like the frame was stored in humid conditions long enough to have a little surface rust inside the tubes. What would y'all recommend to take care of internal rust in preparation for a powdercoat? Should the frame be first stripped and then soaked in an oxalic acid bath before blasting?
This may be getting away from purely a Centurion S/N post, so feel free to redirect this conversation if necessary.
Question about a repaint/powdercoat: It looks like the frame was stored in humid conditions long enough to have a little surface rust inside the tubes. What would y'all recommend to take care of internal rust in preparation for a powdercoat? Should the frame be first stripped and then soaked in an oxalic acid bath before blasting?
This may be getting away from purely a Centurion S/N post, so feel free to redirect this conversation if necessary.
#2111
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That would be cool, as I've never noticed. It would add to our geek cred, for sure. Also in 1987, the Master has the sloped fork crown, the Expert has a unicrown fork.
#2112
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Centurion
I'm looking for a "Centurion Ironman Master Dave Scott" or comparable. I have a few leads, mostly on CL. I will forward the bike details and serial #s accordingly if I luck out and acquire anything good. I do have questions on what to look for and pricing. Not sure if I'm in the correct forum for those questions though.
#2113
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You have a nice stable of bikes!
#2114
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#2115
Senior Member
I'm looking for a "Centurion Ironman Master Dave Scott" or comparable. I have a few leads, mostly on CL. I will forward the bike details and serial #s accordingly if I luck out and acquire anything good. I do have questions on what to look for and pricing. Not sure if I'm in the correct forum for those questions though.
https://www.bikeforums.net/
Last edited by texaspandj; 10-08-16 at 05:38 PM.
#2116
Senior Member
I'm looking for a "Centurion Ironman Master Dave Scott" or comparable. I have a few leads, mostly on CL. I will forward the bike details and serial #s accordingly if I luck out and acquire anything good. I do have questions on what to look for and pricing. Not sure if I'm in the correct forum for those questions though.
#2117
Senior Member
I have taken my 87 Master for alot of rides , some over 30-40 miles and it has been a great ride, To alot may be the the gearing of the bike. it depends on the "hills" if its just rolling..or a decen grade for miles. I have clocked 800 miles on my Master this summer, commuting to work and back. and it has been a comfortable bike!
#2118
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Master


Expert



#2120
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I've had it no more than 140 miles in one day, and no problem.
40 miles and it's just getting warmed up. You'll be bummed the ride is over.
That being said, fit is everything.
The bike will handle it, and one thing I like about steel in general and the Ironman,
is the first few miles feel pretty much like the last few. That consistency is much appreciated by my old bones.
#2121
Senior Member
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...fferences.html
#2122
Senior Member
Left to right:
86 classic # n5p5561,
87 Miami Vice #n7d6334
88 purple rain # n8b5133
88 yellow fade #n7p5088
89 smoke on the water #n9a5763
That is all........so far.
Thanks T-Mar.
86 classic # n5p5561,
87 Miami Vice #n7d6334
88 purple rain # n8b5133
88 yellow fade #n7p5088
89 smoke on the water #n9a5763
That is all........so far.
Thanks T-Mar.
Last edited by texaspandj; 10-10-16 at 06:19 PM.
#2123
Senior Member
Here's a data point from the mid seventies. A humble sport model (guessing), 26.8mm seatpost, only one braze-on on the entire frame for the RD cable stop. Serial number on lower seat tube is IN57745.

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#2124
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Got a new-to-me 58cm Centurion Elite GT that is super-light: it's missing wheels!
Interestingly, it appears to be a 1983, bucking the "introduced in 1984" or "only made in 1984" claims I've seen about the Elite GT.
Reasons I think it's a 1983:
* Headbadge is the round stamped metal "C" one marked "1979-1982" on the Vintage Centurion site.
* Serial N3P5862 = August-ish 1983
* Different paint scheme from the 1984 catalog and all the other Elite GTs out there; this one's a charming champagne gold (which my wife informs me is very "in" for weddings this year)
* Downtube logo ('CENTURION') has the U and R entirely separated instead of the UR 'ligature' present in all the 1984 ones
Other interesting attributes:
* Tange Champion #4 tubing (touring-specific?)
Some parts on it that I think are OEM:
* Suntour Symmetric shifters (or "shifter", since it's just one unit)
* Suntour Mountech FD
* Dia Compe cantilever brakes (they look like the 960s I see online, but I can't find a model number; they've got date codes "10 83" "09 83" and "06 83")
* Sugino RT triple cranks (code GC)
RD (Shimano RSX) and brake levers (Dia Compe VX) are of newer vintage. Wheels are... nonexistent.
I found one other presumably-1983 Centurion Elite GT like mine pictured on the Internet, in this old eBay posting: Vintage Centurion Elite GT Touring Bicycle Made in Japan Needs Nothing | eBay (That one's in much better condition than mine.)
My plans with it:
* Try and touch up the paint on this one to prevent (further) rusting
* Maybe replace the headset (races look a little rough, and the lower headtube race is ugly on the outside)
* Slap on some 700c wheels (the brakes look like they'll fit) and some racks (considering Specialized's Pizza Rack for the front)
* Use it for my daily commuter and touring machine!
Interestingly, it appears to be a 1983, bucking the "introduced in 1984" or "only made in 1984" claims I've seen about the Elite GT.
Reasons I think it's a 1983:
* Headbadge is the round stamped metal "C" one marked "1979-1982" on the Vintage Centurion site.
* Serial N3P5862 = August-ish 1983
* Different paint scheme from the 1984 catalog and all the other Elite GTs out there; this one's a charming champagne gold (which my wife informs me is very "in" for weddings this year)
* Downtube logo ('CENTURION') has the U and R entirely separated instead of the UR 'ligature' present in all the 1984 ones
Other interesting attributes:
* Tange Champion #4 tubing (touring-specific?)
Some parts on it that I think are OEM:
* Suntour Symmetric shifters (or "shifter", since it's just one unit)
* Suntour Mountech FD
* Dia Compe cantilever brakes (they look like the 960s I see online, but I can't find a model number; they've got date codes "10 83" "09 83" and "06 83")
* Sugino RT triple cranks (code GC)
RD (Shimano RSX) and brake levers (Dia Compe VX) are of newer vintage. Wheels are... nonexistent.

I found one other presumably-1983 Centurion Elite GT like mine pictured on the Internet, in this old eBay posting: Vintage Centurion Elite GT Touring Bicycle Made in Japan Needs Nothing | eBay (That one's in much better condition than mine.)
My plans with it:
* Try and touch up the paint on this one to prevent (further) rusting
* Maybe replace the headset (races look a little rough, and the lower headtube race is ugly on the outside)
* Slap on some 700c wheels (the brakes look like they'll fit) and some racks (considering Specialized's Pizza Rack for the front)
* Use it for my daily commuter and touring machine!
#2125
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Another Elite GT appears!
I recently caught the vintage road bike bug, and started looking for a project to rehab. I've always admired them, but never owned one myself. Shortly after starting my search I stumbled upon this 23" Elite GT 15 and fell in love!
After lots of research, and reading this entire thread I think I can safely say that I am now addicted to vintage Centurions lol!!!
She's torn down for cleaning and lubing at the moment, but here's a pic from the "For Sale" ad. I think I stole it at $50! It seems to be almost entirely original. Derailleurs are both Suntour Mountech, and crank set is Sugino RT triple. I'll post better pics once I have her built back up.
1984 Centurion Elite GT 15
Serial number: N4H8315
After lots of research, and reading this entire thread I think I can safely say that I am now addicted to vintage Centurions lol!!!
She's torn down for cleaning and lubing at the moment, but here's a pic from the "For Sale" ad. I think I stole it at $50! It seems to be almost entirely original. Derailleurs are both Suntour Mountech, and crank set is Sugino RT triple. I'll post better pics once I have her built back up.
1984 Centurion Elite GT 15
Serial number: N4H8315