5-speed freewheels
 

except for the shimano 14-28 5-spd freewheel which is still commonly available, and the 13-24 winner which is still obtainable, i was wondering if anyone knows any sources (other than auctions) for a wider range 5-spd freewheel. these last two are ok for daily cycling, but really don't cut it for touring. i remember having freewheels that ran from about 11 or 12 up to 32 or maybe 34 teeth. (i wish i had stockpiled a few) any leads?

Seems like most of the older 10-speeds that follow me home are 14-32 and 14-34; SunTour mostly. I'm sure I've got something I can send you. I'll take a closer look and post later.

http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/freewheels.html#5

14-17-22-28-38

If you need individual SunTour cogs, please advise.

You also open the door to other Shimano mega-range clusters if you move up to 6 speeds (see further down on the Sheldon Brown site)

Also check out Loose Screws. I've done a little business with them they seem to be a great source for parts.

Bob

The Suntour Winner/NewWinner/Winnerpro freewheels allow you to customize your own 5,6 and 7 speed freewheels provided you have the right sprockets and spacers.

Also I seem to recall that the '70s era Schwinn women's Supersport had a really big sprocket on its freewheel. You could probably find some of these rather easily if you want plug-and-play.

I'm currently running a 14-18-22-26-30 on my daily commute with lots of hills. In the 40 small ring I find that the 30 just doesn't cut it on a couple of steep grades. I never use the 14 because it's too far for the chain to cross over on the 40 small ring and in the 52 big ring on my long downhill, it's still too hard. I think switching the 30 for a 34 and a 15 or 16 on the other end and replacing the 14 would give me a much more usefull range.

Anybody have a lead on individual Suntour cogs?

Where are you in San Diego County? I have a pegboard full of SunTour cogs. I am pretty sure I have a screw-on 15 and/or 16, and I have at least a 32, if not a 34. I also have a bench vise, a freewheel vise, and a chain whip.

What is your chainring BCD? You can drop from 40 to 38T if you have a 130, 128, or 122mm BCD, and down to 34T with a 110mm BCD.

I'm in Point Loma/OB. A pegboard full of Suntour cogs? That's heaven!!! :eek: And it's what I'm aiming for but my wife will likely strangle me before I get there. I don't have a bench vise or a freewheel vise, but I do have 2 chain whips which makes me... totally useless.

Can all the cogs can be removed/changed with the freewheel still on the hub (once the 14t is screwed off)? Or does the freewheel have to be taken off the hub with the Suntour 2 or 4 pronged tool to get at the 30t?

I've no idea what the bcd is. It's an SR Apex crank from about 1978. I'm no where near a ruler or caliper. Let me raid my buddies work bench and see if I can find it.
EDIT: The bcd is 118. An older SR bcd.

I don't remember any 5-speed (or 6-speed, for that matter) that went smaller than 13. But who needs 11 or 12 anyway?


Try http://www.yellowjersey.org/stfw.html for freewheels and cogs.

you may be able to do it on the hub, but you may risk injuring either yourself or your spokes if you slip. it's easier to work with the freewheel off the hub. use your quick release to hold the freewhel remover securely on the freewheel, but leave just enough slack for about a 1/2 turn or so of the freewheel. after that first 1/2 turn, take off your quick release and proceed.

a bench vise or freewheel vice is not necessary if you have a 2 or 3 foot long length of 2 x 4 and 3 or 4 screws. screw the freewheel onto one end of the 2 x 4. you've now got enough leverage to get the cogs off with 1 chain whip

Thanks Sluggo and philso,

Looks like Yellow Jersey has all the cogs ever made. I'll have to try the 2x4 technique at some point.

Unlike older European freewheels, the SunTours and Shimanos, as well as the more recent European clusers, are designed to permit all cogs to removed from the outside (high-gear) end, meaning the body does not necessarily need to be removed from the hub.

Here's a trick you can try -- put the bike in low gear and wrap one chain whip anticlockwise around the smallest cog. While one person holds the bike and presses down on the crank, the other taps the end of the chain whip's handle with a rubber mallet. If you break the small cog loose, repeat the procedure on the next-highest cog. The remaining cogs should then slide off the freewheel body.

Let me know what cog sizes and positions you need, and I can drop any that I have into an envelope for you, or arrange meet me in North Park Sunday afternoon or the Civic Center the following Sunday afternoon, for a handoff.

I could really use either a 32 or 34 and a thread-on 15 or 16. With the 30 I don't "spin" up this one steep hill on my commute, I "mash" the pedals a little bit. And the combo of my 52 big ring and the 14 cog never gets used since even at 25-30mph down 2 of my hills it still doesn't let me spin.

I'd be more than happy and grateful to meet any ol' Sunday in North Park or wherever. Just let me know when, where and you want for them and all that. North Park seems to have developed a pretty active fixed-gear scene. It's odd because North Park is pretty hilly.

Thanks, Jered

Why not go to a triple crankset and long cage derailler? I'm assuming you have a double crank. Depending on your terrain requirements, going triple would instantly give you 5 lower gears. More expensive, but more usable, IMO.