Show us your mixte (mhendricks' new happy place)
05-17-18, 10:40 AM
#1301
Full Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Worcester, Massachusetts
Posts: 314
Bikes: Fuji Sportif 1.7C, Shogun Metro AT, Jamis Durango SX, Miyata Alumicross, Fuji Special Road Racer, Mongoose ATB, Fuji SST 1.0 Team, Gitane (?), Specialized Rockhopper SS, Univega Gran Turismo, Univega Supra Sport Mixte, Nishiki Tri-A, Diamondback Coil
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Univega Sportour Mixte by Eat More Plants1, on Flickr
Univega Sportour Mixte by Eat More Plants1, on Flickr
Univega Sportour Mixte by Eat More Plants1, on Flickr
Univega Sportour Mixte by Eat More Plants1, on Flickr
Univega Sportour Mixte by Eat More Plants1, on Flickr
05-17-18, 12:08 PM
#1302
Full Member
The blue Sport Tour in the above post looks like the sweetest of rides! Well done on the restoration!!!
I'm in the middle of building up my second Univega mixte. I have to agree on the underlying quality! (I have an '82 Viva Sport and am working on an '83 Gran Tourismo.) The bottom bracket grease on the Viva Sport was like tan-colored gravel and the bearings were un-salvageable. On the other hand, the 7 speed free-hub with the Shimano 600 derailleur and indexed shifters worked flawlessly - until the 35 year old plastic housing on the shift levers crumbled away. I'm back to Suntour Superbe friction shifters on the center downtube braze-on and all's well again
I'm in the middle of building up my second Univega mixte. I have to agree on the underlying quality! (I have an '82 Viva Sport and am working on an '83 Gran Tourismo.) The bottom bracket grease on the Viva Sport was like tan-colored gravel and the bearings were un-salvageable. On the other hand, the 7 speed free-hub with the Shimano 600 derailleur and indexed shifters worked flawlessly - until the 35 year old plastic housing on the shift levers crumbled away. I'm back to Suntour Superbe friction shifters on the center downtube braze-on and all's well again
Last edited by Honusms; 05-17-18 at 12:25 PM.
05-17-18, 12:17 PM
#1303
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If you're feeling energetic you could search here for a brochure that shows your bike. Lots of info and groovy pix.
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05-17-18, 02:25 PM
#1304
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Worcester, Massachusetts
Posts: 314
Bikes: Fuji Sportif 1.7C, Shogun Metro AT, Jamis Durango SX, Miyata Alumicross, Fuji Special Road Racer, Mongoose ATB, Fuji SST 1.0 Team, Gitane (?), Specialized Rockhopper SS, Univega Gran Turismo, Univega Supra Sport Mixte, Nishiki Tri-A, Diamondback Coil
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The blue Sport Tour in the above post looks like the sweetest of rides! Well done on the restoration!!!
I'm in the middle of building up my second Univega mixte. I have to agree on the underlying quality! (I have an '82 Viva Sport and am working on an '83 Gran Tourismo.) The bottom bracket grease on the Viva Sport was like tan-colored gravel and the bearings were un-salvageable. On the other hand, the 7 speed free-hub with the Shimano 600 derailleur and indexed shifters worked flawlessly - until the 35 year old plastic housing on the shift levers crumbled away. I'm back to Suntour Superbe friction shifters on the center downtube braze-on and all's well again
I'm in the middle of building up my second Univega mixte. I have to agree on the underlying quality! (I have an '82 Viva Sport and am working on an '83 Gran Tourismo.) The bottom bracket grease on the Viva Sport was like tan-colored gravel and the bearings were un-salvageable. On the other hand, the 7 speed free-hub with the Shimano 600 derailleur and indexed shifters worked flawlessly - until the 35 year old plastic housing on the shift levers crumbled away. I'm back to Suntour Superbe friction shifters on the center downtube braze-on and all's well again
DSC_3895 by Eat More Plants1, on Flickr
05-19-18, 06:27 AM
#1305
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SF Bay Area, East bay
Posts: 8,111
Bikes: Miyata 618 GT, Marinoni, Kestral 200 2002 Trek 5200, KHS Flite, Koga Miyata, Schwinn Spitfire 5, Mondia Special, Univega Alpina, Miyata team Ti, Santa Cruz Highball
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05-25-18, 03:02 PM
#1306
Full Member
Univega Contrast
I adore mixtes! And now I have 2 by Univega. The blue 1982 Viva Sport has double-butted chromalloy tubing, a downtube shifter braze-on and a quick, responsive ride. Right now it has an 8 speed Campy drive train that really moves it down the road. Compare it with my 1983 Gran Turismo. Still double-butted chromally tubing, but in a much more relaxed configuration. This one’s very smooth and comfy. It has the Suntour 14/34 freewheel paired with a Sugino VT triple crankset, which is close to the original configuration. There are braze-ones for both downtube shifters and cantilever brakes. So here are two mixtes from the same manufacturer from the same time period, but with very different “personalities”.
Last edited by Honusms; 05-27-18 at 06:53 AM.
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05-25-18, 04:42 PM
#1307
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06-13-18, 11:37 AM
#1308
Bad example
From Paris:
An “M. Vasselle” model, for which I have been able to find no info whatever.
Special C.N.C.:
A Jacques Anquetil swoopy:
An “M. Vasselle” model, for which I have been able to find no info whatever.
Special C.N.C.:
A Jacques Anquetil swoopy:
__________________
Keeping Seattle’s bike shops in business since 1978
Keeping Seattle’s bike shops in business since 1978
07-08-18, 03:57 PM
#1309
Senior Member
Hey friends, close to joining you. Gonna touch up paint, and do an upright 1x setup. Super excited!
10-21-18, 06:56 PM
#1311
Full Member
Another project underway.
1984 (or earlier) JC Penney Echelon mixte. Looks like it was made by Huffy. The components were stripped at the local bike coop. The frame & fork were headed for the scrap metal bin. My plans are to make it into a single speed beach cruiser. Coaster brake, alloy rims, widest tires I can fit.
A couple quick notes. An unusual seat post and fixing bolt The seat post is C-shaped aluminum with a slot machined out the entire length. A nut rides inside the slot and the bolt sticks out the backside of the seat tube. A steel plug was added at the top to keep the seat clamp from collapsing the post. . Pretty weak front end. Look at the last photos to see the holes in the mixte tubes just behind the head tube. Made in the USA, kinda rare for a mixte. Welded on kickstand bracket. Aero down tube. Several bike and part companies jumped on the aero wagon in prep for the 1984 Olympics and Huffy got in on that with the Aerowind 10 speed bike. 2 or 3 serial numbers? The big stores like Sears would have numbers that indicated the supplier, a model number and a serial number. My guess is the number on the head tube is the serial number and the numbers on the left rear dropout are a supplier code and a model number. These would be used to properly identify the bike so correct spare parts could be sent out to uninformed consumers who could not mentally handle non-oem replacement parts. The bottom bracket shell has 4 holes punched for the seat tube, downtube and chain stays. No mitering needed. Just cut the tubes to approximate length and brass braze in to place. No fillet brazing, just enough to hold the tubes in place. Oh, tubes is being kind. This sort of mass market bike is made from sheet metal folded over to look like tubes. Most carbon-steel frame tubes are made using that method even on name brand bikes.
Took a bunch of before photos.
more detail photos at flickr
https://www.flickr.com/photos/rickpa...57702513643834
1984 (or earlier) JC Penney Echelon mixte. Looks like it was made by Huffy. The components were stripped at the local bike coop. The frame & fork were headed for the scrap metal bin. My plans are to make it into a single speed beach cruiser. Coaster brake, alloy rims, widest tires I can fit.
A couple quick notes. An unusual seat post and fixing bolt The seat post is C-shaped aluminum with a slot machined out the entire length. A nut rides inside the slot and the bolt sticks out the backside of the seat tube. A steel plug was added at the top to keep the seat clamp from collapsing the post. . Pretty weak front end. Look at the last photos to see the holes in the mixte tubes just behind the head tube. Made in the USA, kinda rare for a mixte. Welded on kickstand bracket. Aero down tube. Several bike and part companies jumped on the aero wagon in prep for the 1984 Olympics and Huffy got in on that with the Aerowind 10 speed bike. 2 or 3 serial numbers? The big stores like Sears would have numbers that indicated the supplier, a model number and a serial number. My guess is the number on the head tube is the serial number and the numbers on the left rear dropout are a supplier code and a model number. These would be used to properly identify the bike so correct spare parts could be sent out to uninformed consumers who could not mentally handle non-oem replacement parts. The bottom bracket shell has 4 holes punched for the seat tube, downtube and chain stays. No mitering needed. Just cut the tubes to approximate length and brass braze in to place. No fillet brazing, just enough to hold the tubes in place. Oh, tubes is being kind. This sort of mass market bike is made from sheet metal folded over to look like tubes. Most carbon-steel frame tubes are made using that method even on name brand bikes.
Took a bunch of before photos.
more detail photos at flickr
https://www.flickr.com/photos/rickpa...57702513643834
Last edited by rickpaulos; 10-21-18 at 08:41 PM.
11-11-18, 05:16 PM
#1312
Full Member
Captivante Berceau
I posted the “before” pics of my 1950’s Captivante berceau mixte on the French 3-speed thread, but thought it ought to be documented here. From the catalogs on French eBay and the Tonton forum, it appears to have been a widely-available brand before it was purchased by Jeunet in the 60s. I learned a lot overhauling this one. Who knew that “wicks” (look like clothesline) were used as rim tape? Horsehair wrapped around the bottom bracket spindle would suggest a rural past. The Simplex Rigidex 35 derailleur is adjusted using 21mm spanners to move the mechanism out and back along the central bolt. The old Pullman seat is super comfy with substantial leather. The bell must have been an add-on, since it has the Peugeot lion on it. (I’ll trade to a Pug fan for a different one of the same vintage.). Springs on the underside of the fenders hold the wiring in place for the lights. It has 2 small vinyl bags for the back rack that are a bit bright and cute for my taste, but they’ll be preserved. The paint was originally “Rouge Transparant” - transparent red. It’s worn and faded to a beautiful patina - almost tan in some spots. It’s surprisingly light - frame and fork are just short of 7 pounds. It’s a very pleasant ride with its 650-B 42mm tires, 46 tooth chainring and 16-22 3 speed freewheel. I can imagine a French farm woman taking this to market. I plan to continue this application as I suspect it will be an outstanding errand bike
Last edited by Honusms; 11-11-18 at 09:32 PM.
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11-12-18, 12:38 PM
#1313
Senior Member
Wow, that Captivante is special! I've owned a lot of mixtes - mostly French - but have never seen one as interesting as this. I'm a little envious.
11-18-18, 05:49 PM
#1314
Full Member
Another project underway.
1984 (or earlier) JC Penney Echelon mixte. Looks like it was made by Huffy. The components were stripped at the local bike coop. The frame & fork were headed for the scrap metal bin. My plans are to make it into a single speed beach cruiser. Coaster brake, alloy rims, widest tires I can fit.
A couple quick notes. An unusual seat post and fixing bolt The seat post is C-shaped aluminum with a slot machined out the entire length. A nut rides inside the slot and the bolt sticks out the backside of the seat tube. A steel plug was added at the top to keep the seat clamp from collapsing the post. . Pretty weak front end. Look at the last photos to see the holes in the mixte tubes just behind the head tube. Made in the USA, kinda rare for a mixte. Welded on kickstand bracket. Aero down tube. Several bike and part companies jumped on the aero wagon in prep for the 1984 Olympics and Huffy got in on that with the Aerowind 10 speed bike. 2 or 3 serial numbers? The big stores like Sears would have numbers that indicated the supplier, a model number and a serial number. My guess is the number on the head tube is the serial number and the numbers on the left rear dropout are a supplier code and a model number. These would be used to properly identify the bike so correct spare parts could be sent out to uninformed consumers who could not mentally handle non-oem replacement parts. The bottom bracket shell has 4 holes punched for the seat tube, downtube and chain stays. No mitering needed. Just cut the tubes to approximate length and brass braze in to place. No fillet brazing, just enough to hold the tubes in place. Oh, tubes is being kind. This sort of mass market bike is made from sheet metal folded over to look like tubes. Most carbon-steel frame tubes are made using that method even on name brand bikes.
Took a bunch of before photos.
more detail photos at flickr
https://www.flickr.com/photos/rickpa...57702513643834
1984 (or earlier) JC Penney Echelon mixte. Looks like it was made by Huffy. The components were stripped at the local bike coop. The frame & fork were headed for the scrap metal bin. My plans are to make it into a single speed beach cruiser. Coaster brake, alloy rims, widest tires I can fit.
A couple quick notes. An unusual seat post and fixing bolt The seat post is C-shaped aluminum with a slot machined out the entire length. A nut rides inside the slot and the bolt sticks out the backside of the seat tube. A steel plug was added at the top to keep the seat clamp from collapsing the post. . Pretty weak front end. Look at the last photos to see the holes in the mixte tubes just behind the head tube. Made in the USA, kinda rare for a mixte. Welded on kickstand bracket. Aero down tube. Several bike and part companies jumped on the aero wagon in prep for the 1984 Olympics and Huffy got in on that with the Aerowind 10 speed bike. 2 or 3 serial numbers? The big stores like Sears would have numbers that indicated the supplier, a model number and a serial number. My guess is the number on the head tube is the serial number and the numbers on the left rear dropout are a supplier code and a model number. These would be used to properly identify the bike so correct spare parts could be sent out to uninformed consumers who could not mentally handle non-oem replacement parts. The bottom bracket shell has 4 holes punched for the seat tube, downtube and chain stays. No mitering needed. Just cut the tubes to approximate length and brass braze in to place. No fillet brazing, just enough to hold the tubes in place. Oh, tubes is being kind. This sort of mass market bike is made from sheet metal folded over to look like tubes. Most carbon-steel frame tubes are made using that method even on name brand bikes.
Took a bunch of before photos.
more detail photos at flickr
https://www.flickr.com/photos/rickpa...57702513643834
single speed coaster brake rear hub laced in to 26x1.5 aluminum mtb rims. 26x1.5 knobbs with hardly any room to spare. A smooth tread tire would fit better and ride better but I don't haven spares at the moment. I painted the sprocket with some left over copper/gold paint. . The purple crank, purple sprocket guard, and purple handle bars are from a donor bike. The splash painted stem was from another donor bike. After the first test ride, I changed the 16t for a 18t cog. That should suit some pre-teen better. The bike is going to the local Marine Corps Toys for Tots annual Christmas giveaway in a couple weeks. The bike rides like a cruiser, long and low with a relaxed front end.
@#$%! that evil white stuff in the background.
11-21-18, 01:10 PM
#1315
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Saratoga calif.
Posts: 965
Bikes: Miyata 610(66cm), GT Vantara Hybrid (64cm), Nishiki International (64cm), Peugeot rat rod (62 cm), Trek 800 Burning Man helicopter bike, Bob Jackson frame (to be restored?) plus a never ending stream of neglected waifs from the Bike exchange.
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Just brought this Peugeot mixte back from the Bike Exchange last weekend for some love.
Looks to be late 60's . At first glance the paint is pretty good.
Weight as delivered ie just shy of 30 lbs with the cottered cranks and steel wheels.
With new alu wheels and a new square taper crank I should get the weight down to 28 lbs or less
I currently have the frame stripped and am starting the cleaning process
1 wipe down with simple green
2 wipe down with paint thinner to get the caked on grease off
3 rub paint with white polishing compound
4 treat rusted areas with naval jelly ( I have found that naval jelly does not react with paiont so it is possible to paint the entire frame with it to get all or most of the rust off.
5 any areas that are badly rusted and the navel jelly doesn't get off are scrapped with the edge of a razor blade to cut through the rust crust then treated again.
6 Clean old clear lacquer off chrome forks with acetone
7 If necessary paint bare metal with rustoleum primer ( spray from can onto a flat surface then daub on the bike with a brush )
At this point I will probably lightly sand the frame with 1000 grit wet/dry paper then spray a Rustoleum clear lacquer top coat on everything including the chrome
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11-21-18, 01:40 PM
#1316
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
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Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
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Just brought this Peugeot mixte back from the Bike Exchange last weekend for some love.
Looks to be late 60's . At first glance the paint is pretty good.
Weight as delivered ie just shy of 30 lbs with the cottered cranks and steel wheels.
With new alu wheels and a new square taper crank I should get the weight down to 28 lbs or less
I currently have the frame stripped and am starting the cleaning process
1 wipe down with simple green
2 wipe down with paint thinner to get the caked on grease off
3 rub paint with white polishing compound
4 treat rusted areas with naval jelly ( I have found that naval jelly does not react with paiont so it is possible to paint the entire frame with it to get all or most of the rust off.
5 any areas that are badly rusted and the navel jelly doesn't get off are scrapped with the edge of a razor blade to cut through the rust crust then treated again.
6 Clean old clear lacquer off chrome forks with acetone
7 If necessary paint bare metal with rustoleum primer ( spray from can onto a flat surface then daub on the bike with a brush )
At this point I will probably lightly sand the frame with 1000 grit wet/dry paper then spray a Rustoleum clear lacquer top coat on everything including the chrome
Keep in mind that the seat, even in this state may have value.
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11-26-18, 01:53 AM
#1317
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Saratoga calif.
Posts: 965
Bikes: Miyata 610(66cm), GT Vantara Hybrid (64cm), Nishiki International (64cm), Peugeot rat rod (62 cm), Trek 800 Burning Man helicopter bike, Bob Jackson frame (to be restored?) plus a never ending stream of neglected waifs from the Bike exchange.
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here are a few snaps of the bike after I rehabbed it .
Deep clean
rubbed out paint with white polishing compound,
Sprayed clear coat on frame
replaced steel wheels with alu and new tires
replaced steel crank with square tapered alu
deleted 52 tooth chain ring and front derailleur
replaced seat (new used seat taken apart and all chrome cleaned, seat vinyl cleaned and conditioned)
new used polished Pletcher rack
New used pedals
Al cables and covers replaced.
Mafac brakes replaced with polished side pulls
Weight reduced with all the substitutions from 30 lbs to 27 lbs
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11-26-18, 09:09 AM
#1318
Full Member
Very nice rehab!! You turned a dog into a rose.
03-14-19, 03:01 PM
#1319
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: north NJ
Posts: 691
Bikes: Miyata 710, Univega Viva Sport, Centurion LeMans, Peugeot U09
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Motobecane Nomade Sprint. My wife loved the color, so I cleaned it up for her, put new rubber on it, and swapped out the simplex derailleurs for some Suntour stuff I had around. If she still likes it next winter I will look into alloy rims and stem/bars.
03-18-19, 01:06 AM
#1322
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Kansas
Posts: 171
Bikes: Peugeot PR-10, Peugeot UO-8, Boeris racing bike, AMF Roadmaster Renegade, Gitane Gypsy Sport, various Schwinn muscle bikes, Schwinn Super Sport, Panasonic DX-4000, Palo Alto Campy equipped bike
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I built this Fuji Gran Tourer up for my little sister:
In addition to going thru all the bearings and replacing worn out parts I redid the paint and decals as well as switched it over to indexed shifting to make it easier for her to ride.
In addition to going thru all the bearings and replacing worn out parts I redid the paint and decals as well as switched it over to indexed shifting to make it easier for her to ride.
03-18-19, 01:05 PM
#1324
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Kansas
Posts: 171
Bikes: Peugeot PR-10, Peugeot UO-8, Boeris racing bike, AMF Roadmaster Renegade, Gitane Gypsy Sport, various Schwinn muscle bikes, Schwinn Super Sport, Panasonic DX-4000, Palo Alto Campy equipped bike
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Thanks. We decided to keep the drop bar style (even though I changed to some nicer aluminum bars) on this bike because that gives a person a number of handlebar positions instead of the one you get with upright bars, which a lot of folks are using on mixte bikes to now. This will be better for my sister because she thought she might eventually want to take this on some longer rides.
04-23-19, 08:24 AM
#1325
Full Member
As you might guess, I have a thing for mixte frame bikes -
This one I picked up yesterday, for $60, makes a total of 5 of these things I have now.
This one is a real time capsule - An Araya-built "Made For" Puch Pathfinder.
It's a time capsule, because the woman I bought it from said it was only ridden once, and I believe it.
She said she bought it for her sister-in-law, in 1986, who only tried it out one time, and then left it at the woman's house,
and never looked back.
It's been stored in a climate-controlled garage, this whole time.
She was selling it because she was moving away, because of the hurricane destruction - I've heard lot of that story, lately.
Anyway, it's perfectly clean - Not even dirt or rust on the chain.
It's by far the most pristine bike I've ever bought, and at my price point, pretty unique that way
The tires are still good, the brake pads still soft, and the paint with only minor scuffs, from moving it around -
A beautiful "Chromo Velato" burgundy.
Suntour AR drivetrain, Sugino crankset, Dia Compe brakes, Araya 27" rims.
The frame is Araya "Hi-Ten" butted tube, according to the sticker.
It came from a shop in Tallahassee, and she said she had the purchase paperwork (somewhere) from 1986, but I think the bike is really about a 1980 +/-, from what I've been able to gather -
No serial # database for these, unfortunately, but '79 - '83 is when the Araya Puchs were built, I believe.
If anyone has better info, I'd love to hear.
This one I picked up yesterday, for $60, makes a total of 5 of these things I have now.
This one is a real time capsule - An Araya-built "Made For" Puch Pathfinder.
It's a time capsule, because the woman I bought it from said it was only ridden once, and I believe it.
She said she bought it for her sister-in-law, in 1986, who only tried it out one time, and then left it at the woman's house,
and never looked back.
It's been stored in a climate-controlled garage, this whole time.
She was selling it because she was moving away, because of the hurricane destruction - I've heard lot of that story, lately.
Anyway, it's perfectly clean - Not even dirt or rust on the chain.
It's by far the most pristine bike I've ever bought, and at my price point, pretty unique that way
The tires are still good, the brake pads still soft, and the paint with only minor scuffs, from moving it around -
A beautiful "Chromo Velato" burgundy.
Suntour AR drivetrain, Sugino crankset, Dia Compe brakes, Araya 27" rims.
The frame is Araya "Hi-Ten" butted tube, according to the sticker.
It came from a shop in Tallahassee, and she said she had the purchase paperwork (somewhere) from 1986, but I think the bike is really about a 1980 +/-, from what I've been able to gather -
No serial # database for these, unfortunately, but '79 - '83 is when the Araya Puchs were built, I believe.
If anyone has better info, I'd love to hear.
