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-   -   Campagnolo Crank Crack...... (https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/232140-campagnolo-crank-crack.html)

cuda2k 02-23-07 11:16 AM

Wait wait, where can you download the Campagnolo font! :D

Anyone got advise for a first time crank grinder?

cudak888 02-23-07 11:17 AM


Originally Posted by SingleSpeeDemon
I think yours was easier to do than mine.

Your "R" doesn't line up with the rest of the lowercase letters :p ;)

-Kurt

vpiuva 02-23-07 01:41 PM

Would JB Weld or another similar product do anything once you've ground out the crack? What about the alumi-rod (or whatever it's called) that I see on infomercials?

SingleSpeeDemon 02-23-07 01:43 PM


Originally Posted by cuda2k
Wait wait, where can you download the Campagnolo font! :D

Anyone got advise for a first time crank grinder?

I don't know of a Campagnolo font, but I have the logo is EPS/AI format if you want it.

SingleSpeeDemon 02-23-07 01:44 PM


Originally Posted by cudak888
Your "R" doesn't line up with the rest of the lowercase letters :p ;)

-Kurt

I have always been a lousy typographer.

cuda2k 02-23-07 02:13 PM


Originally Posted by vpiuva
Would JB Weld or another similar product do anything once you've ground out the crack? What about the alumi-rod (or whatever it's called) that I see on infomercials?

Depending on how much material is removed to get rid of the crack, just doing that should still provide plenty of material left to maintain the strength needed. Previous owner of this crank was of the 'grind the big gear' school of the day. I'll likely grind out the cracks and keep this bike for easier days when I'm not going to need to hammer on the cranks.

vpiuva 02-23-07 05:16 PM

Now since you already have the stomach to grind your crankset, you may want to try this: drill a hole at the end of the crack. The hole diffuses the stress around to a greater area - the circumference/ surface area of the hole.

Kinetikx 02-23-07 07:17 PM


Originally Posted by vpiuva
Now since you already have the stomach to grind your crankset, you may want to try this: drill a hole at the end of the crack. The hole diffuses the stress around to a greater area - the circumference/ surface area of the hole.

I came here to say the same exact thing. If this technique works for cracks in glass and plastic it seems logical that a material like aluminum would also benefit from its use. With a dremel you may be getting rid of the crack but you may not be able to create a uniform shape which may just add more stress points in the future. A good sharp drill bit and some careful drilling with an appropriately sized bit would be what I would use- long before taking a dremel to the area.

*edit
and a drill press would be helpful if you have access to one.

cuda2k 02-23-07 09:42 PM

My cracks ground out with very little work. I made sure to smooth the edge around the base of the crank arm to prevent any additional cracks from starting. I'll be keeping a close eye on it and do the drill trick if I see anything starting.

Rabid Koala 02-24-07 10:31 AM

I have been watching mine for several months now with no apparent cracks. I occasionally inspect with the jeweler's loupe just to make sure. Definitely better than a high speed castration with resulting crash.

cuda2k 02-24-07 11:02 AM


Originally Posted by Rabid Koala
I have been watching mine for several months now with no apparent cracks. I occasionally inspect with the jeweler's loupe just to make sure. Definitely better than a high speed castration with resulting crash.

Understatement of the day. Mine won't be mounted back on the bike till after the Serotta returns from paint.


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