awer1

i have just converted an old frame to single speed see pic, i want to get a new set of brakes. at the moment i am using an old weinmann 730 caliper on the front only and want to get a pair for front and rear and ditch the weinmann. i have had some problems with reach as the frame was built for 27" wheels and i have 700c rims laced to the old campy record hubs. a brake with 57mm drop is fine for the front but not the rear i suppose i could just get a new brake for the front and leave it at that but its freewheel not fixed. i discovered some tektros [557] but they are seemingly scarce in the uk.

SteakKnifeSally

You've pretty much nailed the problem: brake reach. There are a number of longer reach brakes like the tektros, but shipping to the UK will be pricey. An alternative is drop bolts, lowering the brake toward the tire. Check this out

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/home-drop.html

TimJ

Old Weinmann centerpulls would probably reach, but then you'd need cable hangers.

reverborama

I was looking at Nashbar Jail Brake Road Calipers for a conversion like you're talking about:
https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...eid=&pagename=
Just make sure they have enough reach. I THINK those will but I'd try to find someone who is using them to be sure.

Then I got cheap and stayed with the Dia Compes. If you put some Kool Stop Continental pads on your current brakes you'll probably be really happy with them. I think it about doubled the stopping power on my bike.

GeraldChan

Nice conversion! The bike will now see the light of day. Better to ride them as conversions than have them be wall art.
Try ebay for some old "normal" reach sidepulls. Campy NR would be great on the Bob Jackson! A friend of mine used the drop bolts but did not like the amount of flex when using the brakes.
Question: Why the straight bars? Why not cowhorns or old school Cinelli's (deep drops)? I am not criticizing, just curious. Gerry

nlerner

I've actually bought older GB sidepull brakesets from UK sellers, and they have lots of reach--enough to use GB MK3 brakes on my 650B conversion (see pic below). I also have a set of Weinmann Carrera brakes on a 27" to 700c conversion, and they have at least 65mm reach. All of the above are nutted, too, as will work on an older frame.

Neal

unworthy1

The Jailbrake you link to is a shortreach caliper, and too short for this application. BUT this brake (made by Tektro but sold as Promax) also comes in a longreach model that goes to 64mm, Nashbar doesn't carry it; I got mine at Universal Cycles in Oregon. I have it on the rear of my Holdsworth commuter and it works fine. Only problem is, if you will mount it "nutted" on the rear bridge, you need to order a "front" caliper (with long stud) and everyone seem to be sold-out/backordered on fronts...rears with short stud are available, but only work with recessed Allen nut.

infinityeye

bmx caliper will reach anything too

mastershake916

Ehhh, flat bars.

awer1

yeah okay the bars are an issue. i am waiting on some cane creek levers and i am putting on a set of cinnelli drop bars when i get them. my priority right now is the brakes. the staight bars are chopped down and do me well nipping between the gaps in the static traffic in london!

the weinmann 730 that are on it at the moment have a habit of sticking to the rim on one side [left] any ideas what might cause this?

thanks for all your suggestions by the way.

CampyGuy

Check out the extra long reach Tektros.
https://www.wallbike.com/oddsnends/tektrobrakes.html

acorn_user

Your local shop should be able to find some, if they can be bothered. If not, do they have to be nutted? You might try SJS as a good source of older parts, and there are others too.
Happy hunting!

unworthy1

the weinmann 730 that are on it at the moment have a habit of sticking to the rim on one side [left] any ideas what might cause this?

I'd guess that the pivot is sticking, probably cause the plastic bushing has finally perished after 20-odd years. But if you intend to keep it for any more use, you should take it apart and clean everything, especially all the pivot points. Check the (typically rusty) springs as the left side might be lifeless. Reassemble with some kind of lube where the parts move, a dry lube (molybdenum disulfide) would be best, but light coat of grease is better than nothing.