Re-packing bearings in old schwinn hub
#1
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Thread Starter
Re-packing bearings in old schwinn hub
I picked up a 1972 Schwinn Super Sport that had been sitting in someones basement for 30 years. As a combination learning experience/tune up I've been taking the bike apart and cleaning/replacing those things that need it. I removed the front hub to find that the bearings are not in a little ring, but loose? Pardon my ignorance, but is there a trick to get them back in there after everything is all greased up? Can\Should I replace them with new bearings that are in a ring?
#2
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Please please please someone answer this. I need to know too. I have huge fingers, and I cannot imagine how to get uncaged bearings back into a headset or BB.
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I use needle nose pliers or a set of forceps...my hands aren't particularly large but due to arthritis I have trouble holding small things. I would not replace the loose bearings with a cage. Just put some grease in the bearing race and stick the bearings into it, they won't fall out if there is enough grease in there.
Aaron
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#4
Decrepit Member
Originally Posted by wahoonc
Just put some grease in the bearing race and stick the bearings into it, they won't fall out if there is enough grease in there.
Make sure there's plenty of grease in the race and a little on each bearing, then use tweezers to imbed each bearing solidly into the race grease. They won't fall out.
#5
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That makes sense. I was imagining flipping the bike every which way up to try to get them into the BB!
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Originally Posted by Sammyboy
That makes sense. I was imagining flipping the bike every which way up to try to get them into the BB!
It does help to have the bearing race in a horizontal plane vs a vertical plane, but I have done it both ways.
Aaron
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"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
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"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
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RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
#7
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Can you imagine, somehow getting them all in the fixed cup side, then having to hold the axle in while you flip the entire bike over without spilling any balls, to get to the adjustable side? You can see why I've been putting it off.....
#9
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Originally Posted by dtipton
Thanks, sounds like I need some thicker grease.
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Originally Posted by Scooper
I use Phil Wood waterproof grease (green tube). Great stuff.
Aaron
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ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
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"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
#11
Dropped
Marine waterproof grease works as well (available at many auto parts stores or marine retailers). Put in as much as possible, then wipe the extra after it's all assembled and starts oozing out of the bearing assembly!
Also, with the thick grease, you can usually get a bearing ball to stick to your fingertip for installation.
Also, with the thick grease, you can usually get a bearing ball to stick to your fingertip for installation.
#13
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Thread Starter
<<so whatever falls out doesn't roll under the sofa.>>
HAHA. The hub was very "dry" when I disassembled it and several of the bearings dropped right out. Thankfully I was working on an old light colored rug in the basement so they were easy to find. I'll pick up some grease tonight and give it a shot!
HAHA. The hub was very "dry" when I disassembled it and several of the bearings dropped right out. Thankfully I was working on an old light colored rug in the basement so they were easy to find. I'll pick up some grease tonight and give it a shot!
#14
Senior Member
Originally Posted by mswantak
And just in case, I always work on hubs over an old dinner plate, so whatever falls out doesn't roll under the sofa.
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Originally Posted by Old Yeller
Along with the dinner plate, an old towel rag on top of the plate keeps the bearings from bouncing off the plate.
Aaron
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ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
#16
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Originally Posted by JunkYardBike
Marine waterproof grease works as well (available at many auto parts stores or marine retailers). Put in as much as possible, then wipe the extra after it's all assembled and starts oozing out of the bearing assembly!
Also, with the thick grease, you can usually get a bearing ball to stick to your fingertip for installation.
Also, with the thick grease, you can usually get a bearing ball to stick to your fingertip for installation.
In addition to putting the bearing on your fingertip, I find that for small places a little glob on the end of a flat blade screwdriver works very well, too.
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Originally Posted by Sammyboy
Please please please someone answer this. I need to know too. I have huge fingers, and I cannot imagine how to get uncaged bearings back into a headset or BB.
I replace bearings when some or all look dull or grey instead of shinny and bright. Speaking of which, I was amazed when I cleaned and repacked the BB on my '62 Continental. The bearings are in cages and they were clearly stamped "62" which I assumed was the date made. It was obvious it had been decades since the BB had been looked at, if ever. Yet it cleaned right up and the bearings were as shinny as the day they were new. Everything went back together and now spins like the day the frame made its way across the factory floor in Chicago back in June of '62.
Good luck with your Super Sport dtipton! Is it Kool Lemon? Post some pictures!
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#18
Unique Vintage Steel
I just repacked bearings on my new hubs. I did it in the spare bathroom over the sink - though with the plunger down and a paper towel in the bottom to prevent bounce.
I too use marine grease, works pretty well so far for in my opinion and if you use enough bearings stick to it no problem and stay in place.
I too use marine grease, works pretty well so far for in my opinion and if you use enough bearings stick to it no problem and stay in place.
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I did it in the spare bathroom over the sink - though with the plunger down and a paper towel in the bottom to prevent bounce.
#20
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Thread Starter
<<Good luck with your Super Sport dtipton! Is it Kool Lemon? Post some pictures!>>
It's the light blue color. It's too tall for me (24 inch and I need a 22) but I still get a kick out of riding it.
I purchased it and a 73 ladies suburban (also in blue) last year from an older couple that was selling their house and moving into a condo. The gentleman claimed they were purchased in 1973 and had been hanging in his basement since 1975.
It's the light blue color. It's too tall for me (24 inch and I need a 22) but I still get a kick out of riding it.
I purchased it and a 73 ladies suburban (also in blue) last year from an older couple that was selling their house and moving into a condo. The gentleman claimed they were purchased in 1973 and had been hanging in his basement since 1975.
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Most of the old Schwinn hubs I've came across (Normandy) have removable metal dust covers that press in over/around the bearing races. I usually use a plastic tire lever or a stick of wood and pry them out VERY CAREFULLY, working around the diameter slowly and with light pressure. Be careful though, because they will bend easily if you do some gorilla-esque prying with a metal screwdriver. Once the little metal caps are off, access to the race for cleaning is a breeze, and the bearings go back in easily. I usually press the cover back on after I've got all the balls back in the race and the grease is holding them in place.
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Also, those Super Sports are indeed excellent. I've got a '73 SS that I really didn't like at first. I didn't see what all the hype was about. I've since removed the suicide levers, put on brake lever hoods, added bar end shifters, chrome fenders and a saddle bag. I've really been riding it a lot and giving it a chance to grow on me, and it is slowly becoming my favorite bike. I even like the ashtabula crank. It is easily my most comfortable bike. They are really special bikes.
#23
Unique Vintage Steel
Originally Posted by silversmith
<old married man mode>My wife would burn my bikes!</old married man mode>
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Originally Posted by cuda2k
I'm a young married man. I wouldn't dare do it in the kitchen or the main bathroom, but the spare one off the study/bike room has pretty much been taken over as bike work area. Better than on the carpet!
Aaron
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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
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Hmm, I've always hated the Phil grease, doesn't seem to last long. I've always used white grease from the auto parts store. Hubs, bbs or headsets, wipe a layer into the cups, insert the bearings one at a time, wipe another layer over. With loose bearings there should be 1 bearing space left open.
For bbs, I usually leave the fixed cup in the frame and work from the open side. With headsets, I flip the frame upside down in my stand, grease and insert the bearings in the lower cup, flip upright, insert the fork from below and screw on the upper cup already prepared with grease/bearings.
I always use a fair amount of grease, and wipe off what comes out the first few rides. Usually last years, depending on riding conditions.
Rereading previous posts, I NEVER remove the dust covers on hubs in less damaged. Too fragile and too hard to get back in square!
For bbs, I usually leave the fixed cup in the frame and work from the open side. With headsets, I flip the frame upside down in my stand, grease and insert the bearings in the lower cup, flip upright, insert the fork from below and screw on the upper cup already prepared with grease/bearings.
I always use a fair amount of grease, and wipe off what comes out the first few rides. Usually last years, depending on riding conditions.
Rereading previous posts, I NEVER remove the dust covers on hubs in less damaged. Too fragile and too hard to get back in square!