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-   -   retrofitting wheels (https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/274031-retrofitting-wheels.html)

Christof H 03-02-07 04:17 PM

retrofitting wheels
 
I've done some crazy things on my bikes- like running EA3 rims on a mesa runer frame, and other odd wheel size changes, but I haven't ever changed out a 27 inch road bike.

But now I'm pondering getting a set of new wheels for my KHS special. As some people know, it's nice touring frame, but kinda tight in clearances.With 27s running conti sports you have to be REALLY careful about getting fenders in there. Width isn't so much a problem, though.

So I'm pondering converting it, getting a bit more clearance and some spiffy touring wheels, but I don't know which way to go.

Right now it's on 27x1.25 contis, nice, but not where I want to go with the bike. It currently gets used mostly for day touring and sometimes overnights, but we may be doing a california coastal trip sometime, and I'd like to have it set up for multi week tours.

All sorts of crazy things happen, so i'm just going to post and ask for suggestions.

cyclotoine 03-02-07 05:06 PM

Cantilever brakes or caliper? I see no reason not to convert.

nlerner 03-02-07 05:09 PM

Sounds like you'll do well with 700c wheels, maybe even using the existing brakes if the reach is tight now (you need an additional 4mm of reach for the switch). A pair of Sun CR-18 rims will give you the flexibility to run tires as wide as 32mm.

Neal

John E 03-02-07 06:33 PM

I strongly recommend swapping to 700C. The only drawback will be a slight loss in braking leverage, if you have sidepulls or centerpulls, rather than cantis.

cuda2k 03-02-07 06:36 PM

Yeah, as long as you can adjust the pads the 4mm I'd highly recommend going to 700c as well. I wanted to do that with my touring bike when I had it, but the old dia-compe canti-levers were difficult to adjust that 4mm difference. Good luck, and post pictures! :D

DonTx 03-02-07 08:19 PM

I tried this recently, my canti's would not work without moving the bosses. I sent an email to captainbike and he confirmed that it likely would not work. Ther eare still good 27 inch wheels out there. BTW if your clearances are tight its doubtful that you have an actual touring frame, you probably have a "sport touring" frame.
In any case test fit it first with a loaner wheel if you can.
D

Christof H 03-02-07 08:21 PM

They are centerpull cantis, and I can get 4mm on them easy. Now I guess I decide whether to treat myself to peter white or build my own......

Oh, wait, there's a rear 700c touring wheel somewhere inmy pile already

Christof H 03-02-07 08:35 PM


Originally Posted by DonTx
I tried this recently, my canti's would not work without moving the bosses. I sent an email to captainbike and he confirmed that it likely would not work. Ther eare still good 27 inch wheels out there. BTW if your clearances are tight its doubtful that you have an actual touring frame, you probably have a "sport touring" frame.
In any case test fit it first with a loaner wheel if you can.
D


It's entirely possible it was retrofitted already and may have run 700c originally..... but the cantis here can adjust for it, it looks like (checking with the 700c wheels off the tempo)

It's a kind of odd touring frame, it's got the geometry and fittings too be a grand tour, even came with cantis and a granny triple, all the braze ons and through holes in the front forks, pretty nice ride

cyclotoine 03-02-07 08:39 PM

are these the type of brakes that have bosses at the pivots, where a traditional centerpull pivots? or are they regular cantis?

Christof H 03-03-07 12:20 AM

Well, pictures speak well under these circumstances:

http://sietchtabr.googlepages.com/brakes1.jpg
http://sietchtabr.googlepages.com/brakes2.jpg
http://sietchtabr.googlepages.com/brakes3.jpg

cyclotoine 03-03-07 12:23 PM

Diamcomp 982s I believe? Or something like that? If it had 700s before there will be no problem. The other way to get the pads a little lower is increaseing the yolk cable length (or droping the yolk in the front, which it looks like you have room for) and extening the pad out, it's miniscule but it works. My advise is also to switch to an old triangle deore canti-lever, I held onto my dia-comps for a long time but then I used a deore and it was so much easier to adjust and I found gave better breaking power.

Grand Bois 03-03-07 12:49 PM

In order for a 700c wheel to work, the brake pads would have to be moved down 4mm. That would put them ridiculously close to the pivot point. I think you're stuck with 27" wheels unless you want to spend a lot of money on frame modifications and paint.


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