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Swiss Bottom Bracket ---Blues
To make a long story short, the ebay seller lied---the BB on my 83 peugeot psvn is swiss, not English. Does anyone happen to know where I could obtain swiss BB cups? Feel free to respond here or with a PM.
With thanks, |
Originally Posted by RK1963
To make a long story short, the ebay seller lied---the BB on my 83 peugeot psvn is swiss, not English. Does anyone happen to know where I could obtain swiss BB cups? Feel free to respond here or with a PM.
With thanks, http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/bottombrackets.html#phil |
Depending on where you are at an older LBS with old stock might have a set of Campy or Zeus in the Swiss threading...been there done that. Phil Wood is good stuff and is probably your best bet.
Aaron:) |
Yes, early 1980s Peugeot BBs are indeed Swiss-threaded. When I converted my 1980 PKN-10 to a triple, I needed thicker-walled cups to go with the Japanese spindle. My solution, not elegant but evidently successful almost 10 years later, was to force an aluminum (that detail is crucial, for obvious reasons) Sugino English-threaded fixed cup into the drive side of the BB shell and to thread a French-threaded Sugino adjustable cup into the other side, since French and Swiss adjustable cups are identical. This technique does not bear the Good Housekeeping seal of approval, but it has worked smashingly for me, and I like it better than either reaming and retapping the BB to Italian threading (36mm x 24 TPI, RH thread both sides (boo)) or installing a threadless BB cartridge, which also requires permanent destruction of the threads in the BB shell.
Another great source of Swiss-threaded cups would be an early 1980s bottom-of-the-line Peugeot with a Carbolite 103 frame, which has numerous problems, including the funky nonstandard seat post. I picked one up at a yard sale for about $3, stripped at least $30 worth of parts, including the BB cups, and scrapped the frame. You could steal the Swiss cups for your PSV-10 and ream the Carbolite frame to threadless or Italian, or even try my trick on it. Trust me -- it DOES work, because of the left-hand self-tightening threading. |
Originally Posted by RK1963
To make a long story short, the ebay seller lied---the BB on my 83 peugeot psvn is swiss, not English. Does anyone happen to know where I could obtain swiss BB cups? Feel free to respond here or with a PM.
With thanks, |
You are sure it is swiss? it has 25x1 threads both right hand, french is the same size but with a left hand thread on the drive side.
i might have one i will check today and post tonight. or french bb with 2 left cups if you do not mind having a lock ring on both sides. |
I believe I have Swiss cups... if you still need them, PM me and I'll see if I can did them out.
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Originally Posted by neutron7
You are sure it is swiss? it has 25x1 threads both right hand, french is the same size but with a left hand thread on the drive side.
i might have one i will check today and post tonight. or french bb with 2 left cups if you do not mind having a lock ring on both sides. |
Originally Posted by unworthy1
Uh...no. I think you need to re-read Sheldon Brown: French adjustable cups (with lockrings) will be RH threading and none of those will ever fit in the LH threaded fixed side of a Swiss BB.
In the bad old days, all bicycle bottom brackets used RH threads on both sides. In response to fixed cups working their way loose, a Brit. filed a European patent for left-threading the fixed cup, and the English/ISO threading spec. was born. Not wanting to pay patent royalties and/or not wanting to invest in anticlockwise taps and dies, the French and Italians stubbornly clung to RH threading on both sides. The Swiss came up with the best system, with a self-tightening (left-threaded) fixed cup, but millimeter-pitch metric threading. If English threading had not been so pervasive, Swiss would have ended up being the official ISO standard in an almost-Metric world. |
Sorry, i only have a pair of french campy BB cups, shame..they are unused!
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I have never tried this, but one might be able to cross-thread retap the right side for a right-hand thread. A friend of mine did something similar with ALUMINUM cranks when he built a tandem and needed two drive-side cranks with left-hand threads and one "left" crank with a right-hand thread, and it worked like a champ, but I don't know how well the technique would work with a steel BB shell.
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Originally Posted by John E
I have never tried this, but one might be able to cross-thread retap the right side for a right-hand thread. A friend of mine did something similar with ALUMINUM cranks when he built a tandem and needed two drive-side cranks with left-hand threads and one "left" crank with a right-hand thread, and it worked like a champ, but I don't know how well the technique would work with a steel BB shell.
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