1989 Trek 950 Single Track freebie
Just brought home a free '89 Trek 950. I thought it was the road model but it turned out to be the ATB, and as usual I know squat about that variety. Looks like a quality piece; CrMo, Shimano Deore, Matrix rims, Blackburn rack painted to match. Seems to be all original and in very good condition -- the rapid-fire shifters even work. It's got the original 26-inch wheels but the frame and brakes seem to be designed to accept 700C wheels too. Anyone got any experience with this model?
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It is quality. Second one down from their top of the line mountain bike. No experience with it, though.
Damn, you ALWAYS find the deals.... |
It's a nice vintage mtb. But I'm confused by what you say about the brakes, how how can they be designed for both 26" and 700c wheels?
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Actually, in 1989, it was their entry-level top-end mountain bike.
Trek 950 Still a great find, though. I'd LOVE it if somebody gave me a free 950... |
Originally Posted by Blue Order
It is quality. Second one down from their top of the line mountain bike. No experience with it, though.
Damn, you ALWAYS find the deals....
Originally Posted by well biked
It's a nice vintage mtb. But I'm confused by what you say about the brakes, how how can they be designed for both 26" and 700c wheels?
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Bringing up an old thread but I wanted to follow up and see if anyone had put “29er” or Road wheels on their 900 series Trek.
I have a 1992 950 waiting build up. I picked up a wheel to check what hub would fit it the rear drop outs. It was a 700c wheel, and “Dag Nab!” if it didn’t fit. The 92 I have has V- Brakes currently installed but the rear bridge, and the front fork are set up for brakes. It is tempting to put some 700/29er wheels on it with old style center pulls and give it a try. If someone else has already done it and could let us know if it is worth it , it would be appreciated. |
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I put narrow slicks on my 92 950, and added trekking bars, and am quite happy with it. I used Dirt Research bars so I could keep the same geometry without messing with the stem. As you know, the front brake cable goes through the stem, so replacing it complicates the switch significantly. The DR bars cost me $20 delivered (ebay). I would have used the Nashbar Trekking bars, but they would have pretty much required a new stem, costing more, and messing up the brake cable arrangement.
I used the Nashbar 26 x 1.25 slick tires, they put them on sale a lot. I like the brakes on the 950, so did not want to lose them. Better to stick with the stock wheels in my opinion. I completed this upgrade for less than $60. |
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That is a good looking bike. I am looking forward to putting this one into use as a commuter. It came to me as a frame and fork only, so I am able to experment with items from my parts bin. Here is the before picture.
Also do you have a picture of the front derailure? I know they used the cable housing to move it but I don't remeber how the cable went through the derailure to allow the cable to be secure and the housing float. |
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Here are a few pictures that might help. The cables all route across the top tube: rear brake on riders left, rear derailleur center, and front derailleur riders right.
The cable for the FD comes down from the top, cable jacket into top of derailleur, cable continues through it and is anchored by a small bolt behind the bottom bracket (into the frame). The front brake cable goes through the stem: the jacket bottoms out into the inside bottom of the stem, cable continues through it to the brake. |
Thank you , wrk101!
These are the photos I needed. I now have a referance to make a FD work w/ the braze ons. I know that several people have been stumped by this arraingement. I still have my original owners manual from a 950 I bought new. (it was the forest green w/ gold decals) , but it does not show the FD but tells you how to adjust it. |
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