reasonable expectations for used bikes
 

I've recently bought an 80s SR-equipped bike as my first multispeed road bike for long rides. The seller got the bike from an estate sale and did some tuning to make it more or less ready to ride, needing just pedals and tires. Everything was very clean upon inspection, except for a pretty indexed headset, which I hadn't noticed until I brought it home.

My question is, what should one reasonably expect when paying a premium price for a used bike? This was on ebay from a seller who knew exactly what he was listing, not a magic garage find or a deal through a club.

Indexed headset and very heavily marred Gipiemme seatpost are the only real visible problems - no ripples in the paint, only a couple of flecs of chipped paint around the bb cups, otherwise only a couple of scratches. The lugs are lined a bit sloppily with a different color paint, but it doesn't look like it was to cover rust, everything is smooth. Campy group is very clean and in excellent condition (how can I really know whether it's Super or Nuovo Record?), and even shifts well. It seemed a little odd that the wheels are C-Record and the seatpost was so beat up, but my own bikes know that swapping parts between bikes happens a lot.

The seller repacked the hubs, but not anything else - should this be a "hmmmm" sign, or just that maybe he likes repacking hubs? The heavily marred seatpost a "hmmm" that it's been forced into the seat tube because it's the wrong size? If everything looks really clean and spins well, should I just pack the hs and go? Is standard operating procedure to strip everything, inspect everything, and replace all consumables (bearings, cables, chain) even if everything looks and feels good?

I guess it shows I'm a little loathe to wrench if I don't have to - I learned to do everything building up my first bikes in the last couple years, but they were fixed, so less to consider, and with a mix of new and perfect or old and who cares parts. I don't enjoy wrenching, but I try to do everything right the first time.

And I promise to post pics later - in fact, once I have some I'll be looking for some help IDing the frame, which has no marks or decals besides E34 stamped on the bb shell inside a diamond.

Hard questions to answer in a principled way. But in short, I would say that given how bikes are used, and given that bikes require regular attention, then one should expect a certain amount of work to be done on most any new used bike.

I suppose the only exception to this is if one paid a high premium for a very special bike. But even there, I would repack everything and really clean everything.

BTW, with regard to your indexed headset, one good solution is to replace the headset. Another is to open it up and replace the caged balls with uncaged balls. That allows you to put one extra ball in. With the different number of balls will not fall into the pits they have previously dug. It may still feel somewhat gritty, but it will not feel indexed. Not a perfect solution, but since it is not part of the drivetrain, I think it is fine.

Marred seatpost? Sure that could mean trouble. Only one way to find out. May just be the result of a burr on the frame and sloppy technique. If so, clean out the frame a bit, and smooth it down. You may be able to restore the post with some careful and VERY judicious polishing with steel wool.

jim

I just expect that anything I buy will need a complete overhaul. I would suspect the seller of your bike was able to repack the hubs, but lacked the tools necessary to do the bottom bracket and/or headset. No matter what the seller says, I just assume it needs to be done over.

I'd probably give the seller the benefit of the doubt on this one, though they should disclose anything and everything that would influence a bidders decision.

Thanks for the replies.

I've already bought balls to repack the headset with no retainer, and if I'm lucky I can drop into my shop and have them rotate the races 90 degrees to move the "indexed" side over to slow the demise of the h/s. I guess that gives me some time.

Oh no, you're reminding me that I may lack the necessary tools to open up the bb too - I've never had a campy bb and I didn't even think of that.

You thought you would get away with just the bike???

No! You need tools....LOTS of tools! :D

Then a few more bikes.

If you are going to the trouble of flipping the headset around (a neat solution, by the way, it should solve the problem right there I bet), you might just as well replace it. Unless it is a special/expensive one, I guess.

jim

I buy vintage bikes with the anticipation of opening everything up and cleaning, re-greasing, or replacing as required. That's part of the enjoyment for me. On the other hand, if/when I sell one of my bikes, they will be freshly lubed and adjusted, with upgraded parts. I would expect to recieve a premium price from a buyer who is looking to buy a vintage bike that is reliable and ready to ride.

Heh, 5 bikes in a 4 room apartment trumps most if you calculate by bikes per square foot. Plus a beater in Philly!

I guess to me a SR headset is special - my other bikes have a generic headsets from Tange to high end Cane Creek, but all are easily replaceable, but the thought of buying a used h/s (ewww) and paying a lot because it's old campy is chilling, but I think my shop would flip it for maybe a little less than they charge for a full install. On the other hand, to me $600 for a used 20 year old bike is a lot (my exact size and full campy and local and I had a windfall burning a hole in my pocket), but maybe that I'm considering paying a shop $20-$30 to reposition a used part on a used frame is a bit off the deep end.

Still no idea how to id SR vs NR - anyone got a pointer?

If you are speaking of ID'ing campy HEADSETS, then NR is steel and SR is alloy (try the magnet)

Buying a bike you cant look at in person is always a gamble. The least you should expect is that the add is honest and acurate and the seller should be willing to answer questions. Sometimes standards are different something small to one person is big to some one else. The head set would be big to me the seat post not so much. Most all the bikes I get wether to keep or flip are taken apart the frame is cleaned and polished and every part is cleaned then the bearings are repacked and the bike is put back together. Bearings cables tires and brake pads as needed , my standard for replacement may be different than yours.

Value is much harder, I have posted this example a couple times; bought a peugeot for $1, sold it at my yard sale for $60, same bike sold on ebay for $130, bike was reposted and went for $70(didnt meet reserve), reposted and went for $200. $1, $60,$130, $70, $200, in 5 weeks. So whats it worth

I always ask for a lot of pics taken in specific places on the bike before I buy especially at a premium. Sounds like your bike isn't in pristine shape.
If you have a buddy with the campy tools offer him a case of his favorite beer if he would coach you in checking out the bike. Most mechanics are good about this and like to showoff their skills. If you lived near Boulder Colorado a Case of New Belgium 1550 would get my attention. Heck, I'd even share...! Good luck.

IMO, a used good bike should be comfortable and smooth to ride, with only a handful of parts which need replacing. The cost of those parts to replace should be a major factor in your decision, and the condition of the parts you won't be replacing should be decent to very good. Having just purchased a used bike at a just for the frame and fork, the components on it were just a small bonus.

Tried a magnet, doesn't attract, so I guess it's SR and I can suspect that the rest is too. I guess an old alloy indexed headset isn't something worth keeping, so I'll just repack it without the retainer and deal with replacing it when the time comes.

How about IDing SR vs NR for the rest of the parts? I looked on campy only and a few sites and auctions, but I still can't tell.

And please don't talk about cases of delicious beers - I live in a country where there's no IPA and I'm 500 miles away from a Yards or a Stone :D

RD is easy, SR has script on black. SR FD will have a black arm, too. Crankset rings are different, NR webbed, SR not webbed. From campyonly look at catalogue 18. Or post pics here, knowledge abounds

Thanks vpiuva, that makes it easier - I can't tell the difference for the brakes, but definitely the FD, RD, cranks, headset are all SR. I just repacked the headset, mounted some new tires and slapped on a matching green Brooks saddle (the original Champion that came with it may still be good, but I don't have a wrench that will let me get in and tension it), but it's Blonde d'Achouffe time, so pics will have to wait.