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Show Us Your 650B Conversions

Old 05-14-18, 08:57 AM
  #601  
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Originally Posted by Kilroy1988 View Post
Still can't see the sig line, sir!
Try this. Sigs aren't working consistently for me either, so I went straight to @mountaindave's profile: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JnN3k3ZjJFQmln
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Old 05-14-18, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Kilroy1988 View Post
Still can't see the sig line, sir!

Totally noob question... When I see cheaper tires advertised as 650b they are also often listed as 26x1 1/2". Is this the same size? Would these Sunlite tires fit in 650b rims?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sunlite-Str...QAAOSwK~RZ8mjL

Again, I realize the quality is on the low end, but I am on a budget and simply want to get this Super Course back on the road sporting 650b wheels. Cheers!

-Gregory
The listing says 584, so if that comes off the sidewall (and that number didn't make it into the picture), then yes. But see if you can see your way to getting nicer tires than those.
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Old 05-14-18, 10:36 AM
  #603  
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Originally Posted by Kilroy1988 View Post
I'm planning to revamp my 1980 Raleigh Super Course 12 as a 650B conversion, and was wondering what kind of side-pull brake calipers would be recommended? The bike came with horribly squishy Weinmann somethings that I would not even put back on if they fit... Thanks!

-Gregory
Agreed, those Weinmanns weren't very good. Tektro dual-pivots are inexpensive and work extremely well. You'll like them.
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Old 05-14-18, 10:47 AM
  #604  
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Originally Posted by Kilroy1988 View Post
Still can't see the sig line, sir!

Totally noob question... When I see cheaper tires advertised as 650b they are also often listed as 26x1 1/2". Is this the same size? Would these Sunlite tires fit in 650b rims?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sunlite-Str...QAAOSwK~RZ8mjL

Again, I realize the quality is on the low end, but I am on a budget and simply want to get this Super Course back on the road sporting 650b wheels. Cheers!

-Gregory
These are fairly well accepted as good tires for 650b, and the price is not far from the Sunlites that you posted: Panaracer Col de la Vie tires 650b at Universal Cycles
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Old 07-26-18, 11:23 PM
  #605  
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I've been meaning to post this for a couple months. 1981 Trek 710, Compass Babyshoe Pass EL.
I had an '83 600 that I converted, loved, and wrecked within a few weeks of finishing. Two years later I finally have a replacement rolling, with a few nicer bits & pieces.



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Old 07-28-18, 08:58 PM
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Campy ergos are just so much more beautiful than any other. The whole build is very nicely done!

Looks like a large frame. Do you get any shimmy? How’s the front load? I find my ‘79 710 can’t tolerate a front load and exacerbates shimmy. A knee to the top tube settles it, but still unpleasant.
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Old 07-29-18, 03:09 AM
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Originally Posted by inkandsilver View Post
I've been meaning to post this for a couple months. 1981 Trek 710, Compass Babyshoe Pass EL.
I had an '83 600 that I converted, loved, and wrecked within a few weeks of finishing. Two years later I finally have a replacement rolling, with a few nicer bits & pieces.
Beautiful!
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Old 07-29-18, 03:28 AM
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I’m sure this has been posted but I’ll ask again. Who has budget or at least reasonably priced 650B wheelset in road spacing 130/100? There are tons of MTB wheels out there. But everything is Boost spacing.
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Old 07-29-18, 07:21 AM
  #609  
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Originally Posted by cs1 View Post
I’m sure this has been posted but I’ll ask again. Who has budget or at least reasonably priced 650B wheelset in road spacing 130/100? There are tons of MTB wheels out there. But everything is Boost spacing.
Velo orange
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Old 07-29-18, 08:13 PM
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Thanks, VP & David!

Re: shimmy, so far, so good. I had some with my last Trek conversion, so I decided to go ahead and install a needle-bearing headset. Seemed like a good measure to take, especially because I had offset added to the fork to lower the trail a bit (to around 40mm).
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Old 07-30-18, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by cs1 View Post
I’m sure this has been posted but I’ll ask again. Who has budget or at least reasonably priced 650B wheelset in road spacing 130/100? There are tons of MTB wheels out there. But everything is Boost spacing.
Or Niagara.
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Old 07-30-18, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by cs1 View Post
I’m sure this has been posted but I’ll ask again. Who has budget or at least reasonably priced 650B wheelset in road spacing 130/100? There are tons of MTB wheels out there. But everything is Boost spacing.
Build your own! Lots of 130mm rear hubs out there, you get your choice of parts, and it's not hard!
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Old 07-30-18, 07:16 PM
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Meanwhile, I just got back from riding my 650B conversion on 470 miles of RAGBRAI, and it performed comfortably and nearly flawlessly for the whole trip. Only the headset loosened up a little, and that was probably due to the crash on Day 2. I was able to use a headset wrench at a bike tent in a midway town to get it back into adjustment, and then finalized it with my own headset wrench when I got into camp.

Also, my Pacenti Pari-Motos are now up to nearly 2600 miles, with only a couple flats along the way and the rear tire has yet to wear smooth. I'm happy with them.
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Old 10-22-18, 12:09 PM
  #614  
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Here is my Raleigh Competition with 650 x 42b tires. Paselas for now, Compass Baby Shoes later. The only thing I did to the frame was to drill the chain stay bridge and tap the dropout eyelets. Otherwise it went together pretty easily. My only problem now is that the MAFAC Raid brakes don't seem to want to stay centered. It's very hard to keep the pads aligned to the rim. Eventually I would like to refine it with brake posts, rack and maybe a tiny bit more tire clearance in the rear. And some fresh paint.




1973 Raleigh Competition 650b

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Old 10-22-18, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by fordbailey View Post
My only problem now is that the MAFAC Raid brakes don't seem to want to stay centered. It's very hard to keep the pads aligned to the rim. Eventually I would like to refine it with brake posts, rack and maybe a tiny bit more tire clearance in the rear. And some fresh paint.
1973 Raleigh Competition 650b
The bridge part of the arm should be centered so that the posts are parallel with the hub. Check that and tighten them down. Make sure both arms swing without binding. Once all that's found to be proper, one spring might be "springier" than the other. Disconnect them both from the arms, they should be rotated about the same. If not, "tighten" the less rotated one by bending them up until they're both rotated the same, then re-engage the springs.

Brazed on posts help by eliminating one of the variables, and stiffen the entire assembly.
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Old 10-23-18, 08:59 AM
  #616  
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That's really nice, @fordbailey.
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Old 10-23-18, 06:16 PM
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Gorgeous! Why do bikes look naked without fenders to me now?
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Old 10-24-18, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by gugie View Post
The bridge part of the arm should be centered so that the posts are parallel with the hub. Check that and tighten them down. Make sure both arms swing without binding. Once all that's found to be proper, one spring might be "springier" than the other. Disconnect them both from the arms, they should be rotated about the same. If not, "tighten" the less rotated one by bending them up until they're both rotated the same, then re-engage the springs.

Brazed on posts help by eliminating one of the variables, and stiffen the entire assembly.
Yes ! I've done that- the bridge seems to want to move even when tightened down. I will be brazing posts to this frame- either cantilever or Raids. I'm not sure which, yet. I love the bike, though.
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Old 10-24-18, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by noglider View Post
That's really nice, @fordbailey.
Hey - thanks !
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Old 10-31-18, 05:50 PM
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Glad I am not alone when I get the same feeling that a good set of fenders just seem, well, the perfect compliment on a nice bike that finally makes it look complete, and to think for years all I had to ride was my '70's Italian road bike which unfortunately created within me a certain bias that considered any bike that sported fenders as being unnecessary if not odd. Now I fully embrace them wholeheartedly and feel the need to mount a set if one of my bikes is devoid of them - I made an exception to my P.Peschi but then again it does have eyelets - I think it is trying to tell me something!
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Old 11-01-18, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by fordbailey View Post
Yes ! I've done that- the bridge seems to want to move even when tightened down. I will be brazing posts to this frame- either cantilever or Raids. I'm not sure which, yet. I love the bike, though.
I wonder if you’re missing a lock washer or toothed spacer. Once tightened, I’ve never had issues with movement.

I know Jan Heine espouses RAIDs, and they are great, but I have found Weinnman/Dia Compe 750’s to be perfectly adequate - and they accept the more easily adjustable “Dura Ace” style road pads.

PS - is anyone else getting sent to the first page when they click the link to new posts in their email alert?
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Old 11-01-18, 08:59 AM
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@VintageRide, someone once pointed out to me that Italian shoes have thin soles whereas British shoes have thick soles. The difference reflects the difference in climates. When I was 20 years old on my wandering trip through Europe, I was in a large room, maybe a train station, and I needed an English speaker. I chose the person with the thickest-soled shoes and asked him if he spoke English. And he turned out to be British.

The difference in cultures transfers to the normality of fenders. Fenders may be rare on Italian racing bikes. I saw club rides in England, and all the riders had fenders on their bikes. The British were shocked to see my bike without them, and I was on tour, riding through a whole lot of rain. I just didn't know better at the time. The British really can't stay off the bike when it rains. If they did, they would hardly get to ride. People in southern California, on the other hand, might as well skip the rain on the rare rainy day, because it's extra trouble, and it's rare enough that they'll be able to ride the next few months without a concern.
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Old 11-01-18, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by mountaindave View Post

I wonder if you’re missing a lock washer or toothed spacer. Once tightened, I’ve never had issues with movement.

I know Jan Heine espouses RAIDs, and they are great, but I have found Weinnman/Dia Compe 750’s to be perfectly adequate - and they accept the more easily adjustable “Dura Ace” style road pads.

PS - is anyone else getting sent to the first page when they click the link to new posts in their email alert?
Thank you mountaindave- it may be that the lack of a suitable lock washer is making them move more- I'll try adding one. I too have used the Weinmann center pulls on other bikes with great results. This time I wanted to try the venerable RAIDs if inly for their looks and relative rarity.

ps- yes- I am getting links to the first page in email alerts
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Old 11-09-18, 03:31 AM
  #624  
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Here is an update to my in-progress post from above. I finally got around to wrapping the bars and replacing the brake pads with Kool Stop canti shoes. I'm not in love with the Symmetric shifters and their constant need for hex key readjustment, so I recently grabbed a set of Suntour power ratchets at the co-op and plan to tackle that next. Had a recent bout of ghost shifting, but it's solved -- just the hanger a touch out of alignment. Shifts like butter now...


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Old 11-09-18, 11:41 AM
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this one looks nice

Originally Posted by noobinsf View Post
Here is an update to my in-progress post from above. I finally got around to wrapping the bars and replacing the brake pads with Kool Stop canti shoes. I'm not in love with the Symmetric shifters and their constant need for hex key readjustment, so I recently grabbed a set of Suntour power ratchets at the co-op and plan to tackle that next. Had a recent bout of ghost shifting, but it's solved -- just the hanger a touch out of alignment. Shifts like butter now...


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