what to do when the rear derailleur housing stop is on top
06-28-07, 09:38 PM
#1
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what to do when the rear derailleur housing stop is on top
Hey, so on my pug the housing stop that runs cable from under the BB along the chainstay to the derailleur adjuster barrel is on top of the chainstay, which means that running the bare unhoused cable under the BB as I have the front derailler cable setup would lead to some weird wrap around. I've seen that some older bikes have a rear cable guide that clamps on around the bottom of the down tube and swoops the cable from one straight angle (along the down tube) to another straight angle (along the chain stay to that housing stop). What are these called and can I get one anywhere? Or is there another solution? I do have an extra clamp-on housing stop. I was trying to think of how I could use that.
You can kinda see what's going on in this pic-- again, I was trying to run that rear derailler cable under the BB, but I can't because the stop is on top of the chainstay as you can see:
You can kinda see what's going on in this pic-- again, I was trying to run that rear derailler cable under the BB, but I can't because the stop is on top of the chainstay as you can see:
06-28-07, 09:47 PM
#2
feros ferio
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Why not just leave the rear derailleur cable routing as-is, which is a superior system? I run a hybrid system on my 1959 Capo, because the anachronistic front derailleur is designed for under-BB cable routing: both cables run through the guide at the bottom of the downtube, the rear cable goes along the top of the chainstay, as yours does, and the front cable goes under the BB shell, through an open length of cable housing. Works like a champ!
Nice Peugeot, by the way. Late 1950s PX-10?
Nice Peugeot, by the way. Late 1950s PX-10?
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
06-28-07, 09:54 PM
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oh, I should've made clear that that picture is not my bike, and it is a pic of what I'm trying to get the cable to do. I wanted to know what the part is that swoops the cable from the end of the downtube, as on that pic, to the along the top of the chainstay. mine would have to wrap from around the bottom of the bb shell to the top of the chainstay because I have it routed under and not over bb shell.
Mine is a 1971, not nearly as hot as that one.
Mine is a 1971, not nearly as hot as that one.
06-28-07, 11:56 PM
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Are you looking for a clamp-on cable router? They are pretty common - they clamp onto the seat tube just above the bb shell, and route the RD shifter cable over the top of the bb.
I've got a bagful - want one?
I've got a bagful - want one?
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06-29-07, 06:20 AM
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06-29-07, 06:57 AM
#6
Unique Vintage Steel
Loosescrews.com also has a number of solutions:
https://www.loosescrews.com/index.cgi...d=796729827785
https://www.loosescrews.com/index.cgi...d=796729827785
06-29-07, 07:00 AM
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Or one of these: https://cgi.ebay.com/VINTAGE-CAMAPAGN...QQcmdZViewItem
06-29-07, 07:13 AM
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There's also a later plastic version that's not nearly as nice as that one. Neither of them will work if you don't have a front derailer with a housing stop.
06-29-07, 11:06 AM
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yeah, that's exactly what I need. I take it I should lubricate it regularly?
thanks
thanks
06-29-07, 11:25 AM
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It shouldn't need much more lubrication than an under the bottom bracket style... In fact, they are somewhat easier to replace. 
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06-29-07, 12:34 PM
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Lubrication may do more harm than good in that spot. Dirt will cling to the cable and make it abrasive. I sometime use silicone spray lubricant there, but I don't know if it does any good.
06-29-07, 12:41 PM
#12
feros ferio
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I always put a dab of white grease on the cable before threading it through the guide.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
06-29-07, 05:40 PM
#13
Unique Vintage Steel
Originally Posted by Dirtdrop
There's also a later plastic version that's not nearly as nice as that one. Neither of them will work if you don't have a front derailer with a housing stop.
