The half hoods are out there, and show up on ebay quite a bit, but they ain't cheap. I think any stepped down ferrule would serve as a cable stop for the lever. There were full gum hoods for Mafacs, but probably later 70s, also on ebay now and then. Not sure what else would work, Mafac lever bodies seem smaller than anything else.

Don't overrate them ;)

-Kurt

The importer of Louison Bobets was Gene Portuesi of Cadillac MI. The full line was comparable to Peugeots and Gitanes of the 60s and 70s but Mr. Portuesi put more emphasis on touring, hence the 15-speed cycles and braze-ons for fenders and racks. Great shop. And Mr. Portuesi was a fine gentleman and a good person with which to do business.

I never knew John had this thing....

Awesome old bike!!

Careful, you could own it in trade for some painting tutoring.

Just to bump up this thread, as I'm slowly waking up from my winter bicycle hibernation.

I ended up with the Bobet. I started it's refurbishment, but ran square into the fact that at some point before OFG's Mrs rescued it, some ham fisted mutilator managed to tear the steer tube on the fork. So It's on hold once again until I can find a workable substitute.

I did make great progress on another vintage project today, so it wasn't all bad. :D

How is the steerer torn? Could you add a sleeve to it for reinforcement?

At the top, it's torn on the threads, and then it runs down the tube length ways, I'll get a pic. I might have a new steerer brazed on later. For now I'm going to swap in a chrome fork and an english threaded headset I guess to get it going.

That may be a better idea in the long run anyway.

On this second run through the thread, a few things. In the side view photo, the fork looks possibly bent. I think getting it looked at is a great idea. Plus try to match the fork rake, this has geometry similar to the old randonneur breed.

The cotterred crank is not of top quality, even for that day. High grade cotters, such as FB, Magistroni, or Stronglight, usually had three pins cast integral with the right side arm, and this one is pressed onto the arm. Plus the chainwheels were often aluminum on the steel crank pins, connected with the same sort of adapters this bike has. A classic pattern, but not the racing grade.

The "Juy Simplex" on the dropout should probably be checked out on CR, where the rabid Francophista seem to live. I suspect it is a mid-60s part. Overall parts quality seems to match a UO-8, although I've always regarded the Allvit as producing lower quality shifts than the Simplex.

Redneckwes, John may or may not agree, but I think we'll at least TRY to organize another vintage ride this summer, and it would be great to at least have a show and tell with that bike included.

Road Fan

On a second look at this thread, here are some more thoughts.

1. The crank is not top end of the day. Racing-grade cottered cranks had one piece (spider cast integral with the right arm and often aluminum rings. This doesn't.
2. The parts overall look like those on a UO-8. Not garbage at all, but not racing grade.
3. The dropout "Juy Simplex" is an old name. The Franconistas on CR may be able to clear up how old that frame is.

Redneckwes, I think your fork idea is good, but see if you can get the new fork adjusted (bent) to produce the same rake as that of the old fork. This bike has geometry very close to that of the classic French randonneuses, and that will be a major part of the experience. Probably Franklin Frames down near Columbus can do that.

I'd like to try to again organize a SE Michigan Vintage ride mid this summer, and if we have a show/tell afterwards, I'd really like to see that bike.

Road Fan

Sorry for the near-dual post, but my PC flaked and would not show me the updated BF screen -- grrr.

Here are all the pictures I have of it, the day it was saved from the crusher by Mrs OFG. It is, by no means, a high quality bike, but still kind of neat, if you are into 'ticky-tacky French'.

http://picasaweb.google.com/ypsibikes/LouisonBobet#

I always liked a bike where the "name" thought enough of it to put a picture of themselves on it!

I have a Raphael Gemniani...

I am by no means a Francophile or Franconista or a Francopistaphile but!

My 1975 (have original purchase receipt and bike tag) Jeunet has the same drop-outs and it has a 531 main frame.

http://www.wooljersey.com/gallery/v/...r/1975+Jeunet/

http://www.wooljersey.com/gallery/d/...et+Rear+Do.jpg

I answered that call with mine... indeed it is fixed.

http://www.wooljersey.com/gallery/d/...2/IMG_1501.JPG

Charges since photo:
Brooks pro re-mounted
longer SR plain seatpin swapped in
TA pro-5-vis cranks with 45T 1/8" ring 170mm
KMC Kool Chain 1/8"
17T unmarked vintage 1/8" cog
Phil wood high flange 36 hubs laced to Nisi Mixer clinchers.
Front Brake caliper Campy victory
Rear Brake suntour superbe

Having just examined various forks I have around here, RoadFan is correct, there is a serious rake to the Bobet's fork that will have to be duplicated, Now I have three or four options I suppose.

New Steerer brazed to the factory fork,

New fork from the bike shop, re-profiled, which I'm sure will destroy the chrome plating.

Or Replacement fork re-profiled and rechromed by a professional, which I really can't afford.

On top of that, I'm going to need some serious clearance for fenders and the Michelin World tours I have for it.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...0/IMGP0241.jpg

No Fixie here, it will probably be the closest to a real rando machine as I ever come.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_jfxGj3kcEHQ/SF...0/P6300241.JPG

I don't see why a sleeve couldn't be inserted in that and just tacked in place.

If you put a sleeve in there you wouldn't be able to install the stem.

You could get it tig welded, turned down and rethreaded, but finding another fork probably much easier. Just find another old one. The rake in those old forks is deceiving, they put all the bend in a tight circle near the dropout rather than gradually spreading it out over the lower half. Personally, I love the look of those old fork rakes.

Sometimes my brain doesn't work so good.:eek:

Redneckwes,

I wouldn't just assume that gentle bending will destroy your chrome, but maybe I'm just not that smart. I have had a painted Trek 531 fork bent around 3/8 inch by a frames fellow, with no marring to the paint. I'd just lay the question on your best local guys. Mine was done by Ron Boi in Kenilworth, Illinois. Even though I live in Michigan, he was in business when I was in college in Chicago, so from my point of view he's "local." But he did the job well, as I knew he would. Others in the area: Franklin, Doug Fattic (niles, MI), Assenmacher (Swartz Creek), and possible Chris Zias in Ann Arbor. I'm not sure how to contact Chris. I'm certain Ron Boi could replace the steer tube.

Maybe Redxj knows some other SE Michigan/N Ohio options, or maybe somewhere else nearby. There's a Canadian builder, True North in Guelph, Ontario.

I think there are three dimensions to fork matching (aside from steer tube): rake or offset, length (distance from hub centers to brake mount center or equivalent), and bend contour. Of the three, I'd vote their criticality as length, rake, and bend contour, least important last. The steer tube is left out because it is an absolute necessity, in lenth, diameter, and thread. Rake and length might actually be equal, but I'd hate to test ride that bike and not have the experience of the original trail. Just me ...

Well, my plan has succeeded! I really just wanted to raise the question and see if someone with a real example and the real answer spoke up. Thanks, 'Toine!

I really do want to match the fork as close as I can, I think the traditional bend is critical. I might take a junk fork out to the shop next week and see how well it will bend.