woops there are a few bits missing...
 

ok so i've got an old peugeot from the dump, and it has a pair of stronglight cranks on it. anyway i've decided to keep the cranks on it, both from the fact that i cant remove them and they dont seem like bad cranks, but they are missing their ????'s (sorry i have no idea what their called, this will explain better:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/...nk-closeup.jpg

I was wondering if anyone knew if;
1 - is this an issue?
2 - if this is an issue how can it be solved?
3 - what are those bits called?

Thanks

crank bolts.

Big issue. The crank might come off without them.

You should easily be able to find more. Your LBS probably has some to fit.

Don't worry about the dust caps that went over them. Racers didn't use 'em.

OLD Stronglights used a 16mm crankbolt, but these look like newer models that might have used standard 15mm (and also MIGHT be threaded to use the standard 22mm crank puller, if you're lucky), either way, the BOLT threading is the same, I believe, so you can try the 15mm and if they thread in, use 'em. I always put a little blue locktite on the threads when I install crank bolts: keeps them locked and prevents rust, too. Hope you have the chainring(s) for that crank, cause I'm guessing that the 3-hole style ain't gonna be easy to find replacements for! If you're really lucky it'll turn out to be the same BCD as all the steel cottered cranks that used 3 bolts, so you'll have a load of choices for STEEL rings...

LocTite is probably a good idea on the left crank bolt -- I have had two come loose during use.

I'll bet you can use TA Professional chainrings, which are aluminum, with that 3-bolt spider.

Success, the standard 15mm's fitted, which as suprised me, does this mean that the original BB has been replaced? as i was expecting to find a weird french threading

15mm doesn't guarantee anything, you still may have french (or swiss) threading. That threading is only on the cups, not the spindle.

MIGHT!?!?!

You can be certain they would fall off without them.

Ideal suggestion to those BF members who have had problems locating competent shops to remove Stronglight cranksets with the proper sized removal tool: Just take the crankbolts out, and ride until the arms fall off.

Take care,

-Kurt

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA ....I love it.

Yes, take lots of care.

I agree with you, but I once made the same suggestion here and I got attacked for it!

But if you do it, leave the bolt in place and only ride until it loosens.

Isn't that likely to damage the taper of the square hole in the crank arm? Just wondering.

Not if you stop riding the moment you feel them loosen up, but do you really believe I posted that as a serious suggestion? :roflmao:

-Kurt

I dunno - I have a set of Sugino AT's on the Trek I got at the flea market. Have been trying to get the dang cranks off ever since (Stem and seat post came off easily!). Anyway, those Sugino's are on there TIGHT! I removed the bolts over a month ago and have been riding it every day, with no loosness to date. I have the proper tools for removing the crank, but when my Craftsman wrench starts to bend with the force I am applying, I get nervous and back off. I don't want to strip the threads right out of the cranks applying too much force. I guess my next effort will be heat in the dead of winter!

Craftsman makes a crank extractor?

-Kurt

No,,,I use the craftsman wrench on my VAR puller.