Upgrading to bar end shifters
 

Anybody have ANY advice on switching my Schwinn Tempo's current friction downtube shifters to bar end shifters? Any help would be great... I have no clue where to start.

Thanks!

It is a pretty simple operation. If you can tune your deraileurs and tape handlebars you can tackle it.

You can often find NOS Suntour Bar-Con's on E-bay. I've picked up several sets for $20-$30. They usually come with a set of cable stops if not they are easy to find and run $10-$15:

Here is a set of BarCons on E-Bay curently and look to be complete:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Nos-Sun-Tour-Bar...QQcmdZViewItem

Do it! It makes life so much easier. I mean it, your WHOLE life!

You will need:
Shifters
Downtube cable stops
New cables (if they are still good you can use the rear for the FD)
More housing
New tape (maybe)
tools
stand

Kay, remove the old cables after shifting to the small small combo. Try to cut the rear cable close to the derailleur if you are going to re-use it.
Remove the old shifters and in their place install cable stops.
Remove tape from the bar ends if you are going to reuse it or from any end if you are not. If you are then unwrap it up to just under the brake levers and clamp it so it doesn't unwind.
Now you are ready to install.
First you have to remove the shifter from the body. Do this carefully so if any parts get loose you will know how they go back together.
Instrall the body on the correct side of the bar. The shifter will go inboard towards the bike. They tighten with a 5mm allen wrench. make sure they are straight.
After they are tight, re-install the shifters on to the body. Voila!
Now measure the housing. I usually tape the housing on the bars from the shifter to the point where they will exit the wrap. You want a gentle curve back to the stops. One that will not get crunched when you turn the bike.
When you figure out the right length, snip em and put end caps (i recommend the plastic ones so the metal strands from the housing doesn't make scratchy noises when you turn or shift) on the end that is going in to the stops.
Now that you've got that sorted out I would say to run your cables through, making sure to check that you are getting pull when you move the shifters, and connect them to the derailleurs, once again checking to see that they shift, This alleviates the hassle of unwrapping the tape again if something is terribly wrong.
Sorted? Awesome! Now wrap the bars.
If you kept the old tape you want to wind it normally to the point where the bars go parralel then make a tight loop between the bar and cable followed by a tight loop around the bar AND cable trying to leave as little gap as possible. I would then wrap it to the end and since you can't tuck it back in overlap the shifters and tape it off. then gently cut off the overlap. DON'T cut the housing.
If you are using new tape you want to start at the shifter. Wrap around straight tightly before continuing on in a normal manner, wrapping the bar and housing until you get to the designated exit point, then wrap tightly over then under the housing, leaving as small a gap as possible. Then continue wrapping as you normally would.
You've done it! (hopefully)
I usually wrap some tape aroung the bar at the exit point to reinforce that area but you don't need to.
If you do not know how to adjust your derailleurs you can check out Sheldon Brown's site for a good tutorial. He might also have something about bar-ends on there but I just wanted to write this out to know that I could.

HAPPY CYCLING
Rob

I got these - http://www.rivbike.com/webalog/shift...urs/17089.html

Good news is the quality is outstanding and the kit is complete.

Bad news is they are pretty spendy.

I'm very happy with bar end shifters. They are convenient to use and you don't have to worry about them going out of adjustment in the middle of nowhere. I guess that is why the touring set use them.

Thanks everybody!! Awesome responses! One question - I saw that the Suntour shifters were mentioned, but will any bar end shifters work? I've seen them on ebay and some are like "9 speed bar end shifters" some say "8 speed" etc. Should I look for something in particular or will any work?

As you are sticking to friction shifting, you don't need the index 8 or 9 speed shifters. If they can be switched from index to friction (as my 7 speed barcons can) they'll work fine, but you can save a bunch of dough with friction only barcons. NOS SunTour barcon kits can be found on the 'Bay for about half of the Riv kit. Not as bling, but they do work nicely and will look right on your Schwinn.
Top

I had my LBS install bar-cons for me. They used a Dura-Ace model and were quite surprised when the indexing function for the RD still worked. The FD is now friction. Best improvement I've made to the bike, I love them. It makes the bike much more "rideable", comfortable and easy to shift.

Yeah I think I'm going to stick to friction but if I can go index w/o much extra cost then thats fine too. I'll be looking into options, thanks for all the help!

If you pick up a set of these pods:

http://www.rivbike.com/webalog/shift...urs/17068.html

They will allow you to use your original DT shifters. You will still need cable stops:

http://www.rivbike.com/webalog/shift...urs/17045.html

Now you are up to $39 and will need cables

Nashbar has (9 speed) Dura-Ace bar ends for $69 complete with cable stops and cables:

http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...s%20%2D%20Road

They work great in Friction Mode..... If you are looking for an inexpensive way out, throw a $25-30 bid on some Suntours, as mentioned not as sexy but you can't beat thier action.

Does anybody know of a book that can explain the installation process w/ pictures etc.? I've never really worked on a bike before. I am pretty handy and can definitely do it but I think pics would help. Thanks!

An excellent all around book to have if you are going to work on your bike is:

"Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance" by Leonard Zinn $24.95 at book stores. It is well written, easy to use with pictures and drawings. A good investment IMO.

I am surprised they would be surprised...... the current Dura-Ace are fully indexed for the RD. They seem to be mostly used on aero bars for time trials and triathaletes.

to the OP. If you want indexing, you do need to match the bar-con to the number of gears you have (and the brand of derailler).

have fun!

I believe their concern was the mixing of my old 7 speed freewheel rear set-up (from 1989) and the shifters designed for more modern 8-9 speed components. I don't think they had ever installed them a bike of my vintage. I do have an extra click, where nothing happens.

Understanding dawns....I read it as they were suprised indexing in general worked........ :D :D :rolleyes:

Sorry to jump in, have anyone of you tried the rivendell downtube to barend shifter conversion? Is it any good?
I have an old Suntour downtube friction shifter that I would like to convert.
Thanks in advance!

Read the post by greybeard87 above.

I'd get these instead, though:
http://www.rivbike.com/webalog/shift...urs/17089.html
The shifters are better than the old Suntours.

Simplex Retrofrictions are better than the Suntours. You can mount Simplex Retrofrictions on the Rivendell pods or just use parts from old Shimano shifters:
http://inlinethumb46.webshots.com/59...500x500Q85.jpg

Simplex Retrofrictions don't click like Suntours do. They have a clutch. You can put the shifter exactly where it needs to be instead of settling for the nearest click stop. That's why a lot of us think they're the best friction shifters ever made.

I remember seeing where someone used clamp on friction MTB shifters? Not quite as slick as barcons, but definitely thrifty and worked.,,,,BD

Thanks dirtdrop!
I somehow missed that post above. I already have the cable stops and downtube shifters. To save $$, I think I want to go with the cheaper conversion. Thanks again!

P.S.
I don't hear/feel clicks when I use my Suntour shifters?






I'm interested on that also. I'll try to search that post.

I'm talking about the Suntour Barcons. Everybody but me seems to love them. I took them off of my PX10 when I disassembled it for painting and I don't plan to put them back on. I just don't like the way they work with a Nuovo Record derailer.

Converting the Retrofrictions to bar end shifters required some modification of parts, but I could have done it with hand tools if I had to.

Ok, I'm back... So if I go with the conversion option and buy this

http://www.rivbike.com/webalog/shift...urs/17068.html

and this

http://www.rivbike.com/webalog/shift...urs/17045.html

from Rivendell, what else exactly do I need?? I have everything from my current down tube shifters, so what else should I buy?

Thanks again!

It would be a good idea to call Rivendell before you order and confirm that your shifters will work with their pods. Not all shifters will work without modification. I know Simplex Retrofrictions won't fit without major modification. Rivendell sold the Simplex shifters until the supply dried up and they started making the Silver shifters.

Curious, what did you find disagreeable with them? I'm pretty much in the same camp with the pair that I have on my Trek 728 (FD a Huret, rear a Shimano Deore LX). The Huret doesn't shift too badly, but the rear barcon rachet and Deore LX derailer never seem to center properly at just about any cog. Fighting the friction action downwards to trim it is not worth one's time - once you finally have enough force on the lever to move it, it'll fly straight down the block, two cog's worth at least. PITA. I'll stick to downtubers.

Were your experiences similar?

-Kurt

In my case, I'm using a derailer that shifts late. You have to overshift and then trim every time. NR derailers are known for that. I only put up with it because it's pretty. (I tell my wife the same thing.) With the Barcons, I'm fighting against the added friction of extra long cables and unlined stainless housing. The ratcheting shifters want to stop when the pawl is between teeth, not where I want it to stop.

I'm going to try it with my homemade Simplex bar end shifters and proper shift cable. If I still don't like it, I'm going to put those shifters on the downtube where they belong.

I also think that the Suntour Barcons are roughly finished, have poor ergonomics and are ugly.

The one's on my Voyageur seem the same to a point. Shifting up to larger gears is okay, but shifting back down seems to be all in the last inch or so of travel. I imagine it's because of the friction of being under the wrap on randonneur bars. They also seem really hard to move, maybe I just have them too tight possibly?,,,,BD

All right - same problem here.

Just because I'm using a Shimano derailer doesn't mean that it shifts early as well, as I'm using an older Sachs freewheel with none of this Hyperglide tooth nonsense (which is essentially the only reason Shimano stuff and the majority of the other modern drivetrains shift early), and have to do the same nagging drill with the Suntour barcons as you. The cables don't seem to be much of a bother in my case though.

Suntour's barcons are roughly finished, perhaps. Poor ergonomics, definitely (once the barcon has passed the 45 degree angle from the bar, I find myself shifting in god only knows what "unacceptable" ;) hand movements. I can't even describe them - I'll take a picture sometime.

Yes, they are ugly too. After you get over the excitement of spotting a higher-end machine (mainly by spotting the barcons first), you can't help but realize that they aren't the nicest looking objects made for the end of a handlebar.

-Kurt