redbarnlane

Hello

I have a Miyata 610 I purchased new--probably in 1979 or 1980. The frame measures out at 68 or 69 cm from the center of the crank to the top of the seat post (it's scalloped, hence the two numbers.) The serial number is T647239, with no frame size stamped. It's all original except for tires and the seat. Sun tour deraillers and diacompe centerpull brakes. Even the chain and cables are original, and, amazingly, everything works.

I'm 6'7", with a 36" inseam, and I'd been thinking of getting a new bike. From what I can tell, I'd probably have to get a custom or semi-custom bike, and they start at $3000 US. That's not going to happen. I got this bike tuned up, had the crank bearing replaced, and got tires and a garage sale saddle for it. It's still a sweet ride--the steel frame is forgiving. More importantly, it fits me.

I think my best options are to keep it exactly as it is, or to update it with new components. I'd like to keep it as a touring bike, and I see that a couple of you here have done this. So, a couple of questions: How much could I expect to spend for gears, shifters, deraillers, brakes and wheels? Could I do the work myself? I'm handy, but usually take the bikes to the LBS for tuneups and such. And--was this bike custom ordered? I've never seen another one this size?

Thanks

Mike

SoreFeet

Upgrading shifters is probbaly not a good investment. You could enjoy modern shifters but if you are touring bar end shifters are the only way to go. Those little ratchets inside the barend shifter last a long time and don't mind being abused. The best upgrade would be to get a cassette based wheelset. You could spend a lot on new components without too much performance gain.

Upgrading the brakes to something with stronger stopping power would be a sound choice. The most economical high quality brakes on the market are tektro. I think they are just as good as Ultegra but cost a helluva lot less. The brake hoods are very comfortable on them also.

I am just guessing but I think between 400-700$ would be a good estimate. I would recommend looking at craigslist for used deals on modern components. The older Shimano 600 Ultegra stuff was very good. The latest ultegra cranks are also very nice and light. I would upgrade the wheels and brakes. Do you have the older SR cranks with non common bolt circle diamter? If your current cranks are a standard road diamter I would buy new chainrings/chain and upgrade the wheels to a cassette based hub.

Hocam

Mountain bike hubs can be found for cheap, especially shimano LX and XT. A 36 hole 3 or 4 cross wheel set with touring/tandem rims like the velocity dyad or sun rhino or a mavic touring rim (forget the name) would be a great upgrade. You can run 9 speed shimano cassettes (significantly cheaper than the 10 speed stuff, chains last a little longer too). Your rear dropouts may need to be spread from 126 to 135 mm but it's not a major problem, alignment can be an issue so it's better to have a shop do it.

redbarnlane

The cranks say "Miyata" on the outside, but do say "SR" on the inside. Don't know anything about non common bolt holes. I take it from what you say that I could use my current friction shifters (on the stem) with a new cassete/chainrings.

Thanks for the help.

Mike

old and new

I would it as it is. Many suggestions have arrised,I could find fault with any of them, I'll address a few. First off,
it's a 1981,most likely. If it's an '80,it would be the first '80 610 i've encounterd with SunTour, '79s didn't exist to my knowlege,it could be gray market though,that's a stetch. Then again the frame size is as well. Miyata's big push into the market started in late'79 with the introduction of the'80 models, prior to that, Miyatas were few and far between. If it has a plastic head badge,it's an American market '80s, painted logo,a '78,early '79.The # you give MIGHT be a J, not a T. As far as component changing, problematic : It has 27" wheels, P I T A to find a set of wheels that would make a meeningfull improvement. A set of Suzie hub'd ,Ukai or other such wheels just
MIGHT make a difference,not worth it. Anyone who actually knows/has/had that bike as I do,knows that the OE wheels are plenty strong. B T W, I weigh over 220,NEVER crunched or bent a wheel, then again I don't AIM for rocks and ruts. Spacing, a problem, it shifts well now, it won't after you start rubin'-up the drivetrain. What's the point, a few extra gears? Look at your ring gears, if it's not a triple,it's an SR 36T/50T crank, who says compact gearing is a "new thing". I also strongly disagree on the brake question..too questionable, besides, anybody who's ever had old Diacomps, KNOWS that they just plain STOP. I could go on,I've alread waisted enough of MY time and YOURS. Leave the bike as is. rather than throw 2 to4 hundred at it to render it OK, leave it near perfect, why pretend you ,I or anyone knows how to formulate a better tourer than Miyata. That bike was made in the touring hay-day, the Hight of knowlege as such. save the $$ to find a second bike, OWN 2 !

seaneee

^ have had old diacomps, "G", Royal Compe, etc. All outfitted with either Mathauser or Kool Stop pads. They are a mixed bag, don't know if I would say "they plain STOP". Compared to modern dual pivots, there is a very noticeable difference.

The only thing you will run into is nutted vs recessed. your brakes are most likely nutted.

Two ways to tackle that. There are some modern Tektros out there that are nutted. Or you could have the rear of the fork/brake bridge drilled out to accept recessed. It's actually quite easy and you can do it yourself with the right bit, some cutting fluid and patience. Just make sure you want to commit to that.

redbarnlane

It might be an 81, but no later. I remember I bought it when the CTA threatened to strike. The T could be a J--the impressions there are a little weak. The head badge looks like metal, could be plastic. I'm over 240 myself, and the wheels are good as new. It's a double chainring.

Thanks to you for your time--and thanks to everyone here who is helping.

Mike

matimeo

I also agree that you should leave the bike alone. You're not going to vastly improve the bike by spending a bunch of money on upgrades. You could put some bar ends on it if you want to use it as a tourer. You could probably find some on ebay. I have a bike of the same vintage that I upgraded to a 7spd freewheel and put some ultegra 8spd bar ends and they work very well. As for if it was custom built, I'm no expert, but back in the day they made a lot of big bikes and it wouldn't surprise me if it wasn't custom built. I've owned a bike that was about 65cm c-c and I know it wasn't custom built.

japollner

My friend just built up a 67cm fixie for a friend...thing is huge.

lebowitz

My 1981 Miyata 710 serial number is



Funny how it also looks like it starts with a T!

redbarnlane

I'm adding a few pictures of the bike in this thread.

Mike

gr23932

OP, Could you post pics of the top of the lugs. I'm trying to figure out what frame I have and many people believe that it's a Miyata. Thanks.

redbarnlane

Hope this is what you meant.

Mike

gr23932

Thanks!