88 Trek Aluminum Upgrade
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88 Trek Aluminum Upgrade
I know that this has all been covered before, but I thought that I would save myself some time by asking this directly.
I've been test riding new bikes lately, and just don't see any giant advantages of them over my vintage bicycle. I have a 1988 Trek 1000 Aluminum, with old Shimano 105 components on it. The primary advantages that I see with the new bikes over my old one are dual-pivot brakes on the front, and the cranks. I can handle replacing the brakes with no problem, but want advice on the cranks, freewheel, and derailures.
This model of bike has downtube shifters, an old 2-chainring bio-pace crank (52-42, oval-shaped chain rings), a fixed 126mm rear drop-out (can't stretch aluminum), and a 6-speed shimano free-wheel on the rear. I'm pretty sure that it would be easier to just replace the whole bottom bracket, chainring/freewheel, and derailures with a friction Suntour group. Because vintage things cost so much on Ebay these days, I would prefer to go with new parts for everything but the derailures.
I want to change out the bottom bracket for a triple (do they make Suntour compatible 53-42/39-34/30 cranks?), switch to friction shifting, and maybe to a 7-speed freewheel in the back. Do any of you know what Suntour derailures and compatible crank sets and bottom brackets that I should be looking for? Thanks.
I've been test riding new bikes lately, and just don't see any giant advantages of them over my vintage bicycle. I have a 1988 Trek 1000 Aluminum, with old Shimano 105 components on it. The primary advantages that I see with the new bikes over my old one are dual-pivot brakes on the front, and the cranks. I can handle replacing the brakes with no problem, but want advice on the cranks, freewheel, and derailures.
This model of bike has downtube shifters, an old 2-chainring bio-pace crank (52-42, oval-shaped chain rings), a fixed 126mm rear drop-out (can't stretch aluminum), and a 6-speed shimano free-wheel on the rear. I'm pretty sure that it would be easier to just replace the whole bottom bracket, chainring/freewheel, and derailures with a friction Suntour group. Because vintage things cost so much on Ebay these days, I would prefer to go with new parts for everything but the derailures.
I want to change out the bottom bracket for a triple (do they make Suntour compatible 53-42/39-34/30 cranks?), switch to friction shifting, and maybe to a 7-speed freewheel in the back. Do any of you know what Suntour derailures and compatible crank sets and bottom brackets that I should be looking for? Thanks.
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I it was mine and at one time I had a black and pink 1989 one I would just replace the chain rings. They are standard 130mm and are readily available. Roger
Last edited by rhenning; 09-21-07 at 12:32 PM.
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You can flex the aluminum, though. I am running a nine-speed ultegra setup on my 1985 Trek 2000, and it works great right outta the box. The parts were purchased one at a time on ebay, used. the whole build was cheap. I use the bike as a winter rider, pam the crap outta it, and just ride it.
Come to think of it, I gotta get it cleaned up here soon because you can smell the snow in the air already.
Come to think of it, I gotta get it cleaned up here soon because you can smell the snow in the air already.
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I updated my '87 1500 like you wanted with all 105 and the triple crank.... see this thread....
https://forums.roadbikereview.com/sho...d.php?t=107614
https://forums.roadbikereview.com/sho...d.php?t=107614
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Thanks much, guys. I'm going to check my chain stays tonight, to see if they are 128mm wide, as per your build, Old Yeller. Nice. I'm still weary of spreading them even 2mm to accomidate a 130mm hub, since I weigh about 190 lbs. I'm afraid that the added weight could cause a frame crack. I'm intrigued about adding more modern shifters, though. I was resigned to maybe switching to friction Suntour or older Shimano touring-type shifters. But modern 105 components are much, much better.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
I updated my '87 1500 like you wanted with all 105 and the triple crank.... see this thread....
https://forums.roadbikereview.com/sho...d.php?t=107614
https://forums.roadbikereview.com/sho...d.php?t=107614
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better is usually an arguable statement, especially around here, but when you are wearin lobster mitts and the temp is in the teens, well, brifters start to make a lot of sense...
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My first decent road bike was a 1988 Trek 1000, and if I still had it today I'd be right along with you in thinking it would be just as fine for riding now as it was then even though it was a bit harsh on bumps. The first thing I would want to change on it though would definitely be switching to STI shifters. IMO, they would make a world of difference and something well worth looking into.
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If it's like my '88 Trek 1000 - shimano light action derailler, oval tech chain rings, SLR (105 brakes)
the rear derailler shifter is actually switchable from indexed (SIS) to friction by turning the the D ring and lining up the arrows to the friction setting. I don't know if I'd change the brakes mine seem to stop pretty good with new pads in them. Sheldons take on the SLR brakes. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_sa-o.html
the rear derailler shifter is actually switchable from indexed (SIS) to friction by turning the the D ring and lining up the arrows to the friction setting. I don't know if I'd change the brakes mine seem to stop pretty good with new pads in them. Sheldons take on the SLR brakes. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_sa-o.html
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I've been test riding new bikes lately, and just don't see any giant advantages of them over my vintage bicycle. I have a 1988 Trek 1000 Aluminum, with old Shimano 105 components on it. The primary advantages that I see with the new bikes over my old one are dual-pivot brakes on the front, and the cranks. I can handle replacing the brakes with no problem, but want advice on the cranks, freewheel, and derailures.
a fixed 126mm rear drop-out (can't stretch aluminum), and a 6-speed shimano free-wheel
You can spread aluminum dropouts ... but just not "cold set" (bend) them permanently. As mentioned, many of us have done that. My 1987 Cannondale is running a 130 mm 8 speed cassette. It was running Suntour ultra-7 "back in the day"
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Yep, dedhed, that is my bike. I have an aqua-blue one with white trim, the original oval-tech chainrings, and the works. My brake pads in the front are less than one year old, and I can still tell the difference between single and double pivot brakes. The other reason that I want to switch out the brakes is the brake hoods. I hit a deer on this bike in May going over 30 mph down a hill (I hit a deer in the middle of the group that jumped out of the willow bushes), wich totally destroyed my headset, handlebars, forks, front wheel (rim, berrings, and axle), saddle, and brake hoods. Everything else on the bike came through with hardley a scratch, and I was able to replace everything else with vintage parts but the rubber brake hoods. Those things are getting hard and cold in the morning lately...
I've also been looking at replacing the rear derailure with a vintage SIS Dura Ace or Ultegra unit from the early 90s with accompanying shifters, and switching out the 6-speed for a 7-speed freewheel (12-30 tooth units are available). It all depends on what I can find on Ebay over the next few months. If I find the right model of derailure, then I'll go for it, and keep you all posted.
Thanks again.
I've also been looking at replacing the rear derailure with a vintage SIS Dura Ace or Ultegra unit from the early 90s with accompanying shifters, and switching out the 6-speed for a 7-speed freewheel (12-30 tooth units are available). It all depends on what I can find on Ebay over the next few months. If I find the right model of derailure, then I'll go for it, and keep you all posted.
Thanks again.
If it's like my '88 Trek 1000 - shimano light action derailler, oval tech chain rings, SLR (105 brakes)
the rear derailler shifter is actually switchable from indexed (SIS) to friction by turning the the D ring and lining up the arrows to the friction setting. I don't know if I'd change the brakes mine seem to stop pretty good with new pads in them. Sheldons take on the SLR brakes. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_sa-o.html
the rear derailler shifter is actually switchable from indexed (SIS) to friction by turning the the D ring and lining up the arrows to the friction setting. I don't know if I'd change the brakes mine seem to stop pretty good with new pads in them. Sheldons take on the SLR brakes. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_sa-o.html
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OUCH! Muley or white tail? I hope you did as much damage to him and at least got to enjoy some fresh tenderloins. Double pivots will definately stop you faster. I just compare them to my old Raleigh Gran Prix dia compes which they are waaay better than, but not like modern brakes. Took me a while to find hoods for the Raleigh and never did find gum ones ended up running black which looked OK. 10-4 on the cold & hard, hasn't been bad here yet, haven't had our first frost yet in the city.
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I was lucky that I hit about a 150 lbs mule deer doe. It was heavy enough to take most of the impact when I hit it. After the front end of my bike folded under the back of its hip (I almost missed it), I sort of slammed into it with the whole side of my body. Since the deer was leaping in the air when I hit it, I sort of ended up riding along the side of the deer's back for a second, while we hurtled down the road together, and its hooves hit the pavement running. Things happened fast then. The bike and my feet went up and over us like a sloppy sideways cartwheel, and slammed into pavement handlebars first,on the other side of the deer. I only slid about 10-15 feet on the pavement when it was all over. I was pretty rattled, but walked away with just some torn tights and bootie covers, scuffed gloves, helmet scrapes, and a bad shin bruise. By the time I had decided that I really was not hurt, and got up off of the pavement, the deer was long gone up and over a local hill about 400-500 yards away. It was the wildest 1-2-second ride of my life!
No frost around here yet, either. It has just been really warm around here this year, and I'm finding it hard to adjust to a sudden drop in morning temperatures from 65-75 degrees until 2 weeks ago, and then we went immediately down to 38-45 degrees in the morning (especially if you ride in the nearby mountains above 7000 ft). Usually there is a period of 50 degree temperatures just before fall begins, but we sort of skipped it this year. I'm a cold-wuusss. Brrrrrrr.
No frost around here yet, either. It has just been really warm around here this year, and I'm finding it hard to adjust to a sudden drop in morning temperatures from 65-75 degrees until 2 weeks ago, and then we went immediately down to 38-45 degrees in the morning (especially if you ride in the nearby mountains above 7000 ft). Usually there is a period of 50 degree temperatures just before fall begins, but we sort of skipped it this year. I'm a cold-wuusss. Brrrrrrr.