Retro roadies- old frames with STI's or Ergos
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Interesting thread, especially since I am considering doing the same. I have an '86 Bridgestone 400, and have a line on basically all but the frame from '93 B/S RB-1. this thread gives me some hope that i can make it all work.
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'83 Caldaro Specialissima with a Record/Chorus/Centaur mix. I love this bike.
I also have an '89 Trek 660 that I've been riding around town as a fixed gear but when I get it powdercoated I'm thinking of bringing back the gears: 9 speed Shimano but with downtube shifters. They're still available and relatively inexpensive.
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It all just fits.
I repeat, you're all going to hell. And there's a special room reserved for the guy who did that to the Hetchins.


Last edited by Six jours; 11-26-07 at 11:27 PM.
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One of the great things about the old steel frames is their ability to adapt. My '87 Pinarello went from 7sp to 8sp to STI. The rear was easily spread to the wider axel width.
The new carbon frames won't be able to adapt should the standard change in the future.
CroMo can always be updated by a good frame builder.
The new carbon frames won't be able to adapt should the standard change in the future.
CroMo can always be updated by a good frame builder.
On that note- whilst looking for screws on loosescrews.com the other day I saw a "Frame Spreader". That looked like a simple and uncomplicated solution - assuming the plain squeeze doesn't work. Does anybody have any experience with that?
Description from website:
Item #TH-HPFS: This tool can be used for installing bearings in hubs where bearings are pressed in prior to axle installation; Suntour, Specialized, etc. Also doubles as a frame spreader to increase rear dropout spacing. This is a very simple unit consisting of a 10mm solid axle, two 10mm nuts with attached floating washers (track nuts) and two flat washers approximately 1 3/8" in diameter. Starting from the outside, the idea is to use the track nuts, flat washers and old cartridge bearings (the ones being replaced) to press new cartridge bearings into the hub shell.
Cheers
Jan
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Capitalists are always looking to make a buck. Not that there's anything wrong with that...
Take the rear wheel out. Grip the dropouts in your hands. Pull them apart. It will take a lot of strength. Try to put the 130 wheel in. You'll probably need to pull some more, harder this time. Try the wheel again. Eventually it will fit. You will not break the bike. Your alignment, dropouts, etc. will not be ruined. You might be sore in the morning. It's not rocket science.
You will, of course, have to deal with having offending the gods by putting a 130 wheel into your classic bike, but that's your problem to sort out.
HTH!
Take the rear wheel out. Grip the dropouts in your hands. Pull them apart. It will take a lot of strength. Try to put the 130 wheel in. You'll probably need to pull some more, harder this time. Try the wheel again. Eventually it will fit. You will not break the bike. Your alignment, dropouts, etc. will not be ruined. You might be sore in the morning. It's not rocket science.
You will, of course, have to deal with having offending the gods by putting a 130 wheel into your classic bike, but that's your problem to sort out.
HTH!
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Can you just change the shifters to brifters without changing the derailer and all that?
Would it be ridiculous (or impossible) to take the Sora/Tiagra (whatever they are) parts off my Trek 1000 and put them on my 1985 Centurion? Was thinking about doing it because I don't really like the Trek's ride, but I don't want to spend a lot of money on the Centurion. (I bought both this year and hubby will have a cow if I buy more bike stuff for next season.) If it's going to be a pain in the neck, I'll just stick with the 10 speed and friction shifters.
You guys are the best. And a really bad influence on me!
Karen
Would it be ridiculous (or impossible) to take the Sora/Tiagra (whatever they are) parts off my Trek 1000 and put them on my 1985 Centurion? Was thinking about doing it because I don't really like the Trek's ride, but I don't want to spend a lot of money on the Centurion. (I bought both this year and hubby will have a cow if I buy more bike stuff for next season.) If it's going to be a pain in the neck, I'll just stick with the 10 speed and friction shifters.
You guys are the best. And a really bad influence on me!
Karen
#67
Dropped

If you swap shifters, you'll need a cassette to match in back (either the same number of cogs on the Trek 1000, or a cassette with the same spacing between cogs). Also, you'll likely need the 'light action' derailleurs on the Trek, which have less stiff springs and a floating upper jockey wheel, which all help with the indexing.
You could swap everything over, including the wheels. You might need a spacer for the front derailleur clamp, and stops on the downtube for the shifter housing, but otherwise, I think you could do it. Oh, and if the chainstays on your Centurion are longer, you may need to lengthen your chain.
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Sweet bike indeed
That is one of the best refurbishes I have ever seen.
Actually, i have a Benotto from the early 80's with SunTour comp.'s. I'd love to get all the rust off the current components but i wonder if i could ever get it looking like yours. Otherwise i would just as soon replace them (esp the brakes, maybe the wheels and derailleurs too), but wonder how i can know if the parts will be compatable.
Any thoughts?
Actually, i have a Benotto from the early 80's with SunTour comp.'s. I'd love to get all the rust off the current components but i wonder if i could ever get it looking like yours. Otherwise i would just as soon replace them (esp the brakes, maybe the wheels and derailleurs too), but wonder how i can know if the parts will be compatable.
Any thoughts?
Likes For tuckervill:
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Check the thread, I was talking about the '83 Caldaro Specialissima.
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It'll be a pain in the neck! 
If you swap shifters, you'll need a cassette to match in back (either the same number of cogs on the Trek 1000, or a cassette with the same spacing between cogs). Also, you'll likely need the 'light action' derailleurs on the Trek, which have less stiff springs and a floating upper jockey wheel, which all help with the indexing.
You could swap everything over, including the wheels. You might need a spacer for the front derailleur clamp, and stops on the downtube for the shifter housing, but otherwise, I think you could do it. Oh, and if the chainstays on your Centurion are longer, you may need to lengthen your chain.

If you swap shifters, you'll need a cassette to match in back (either the same number of cogs on the Trek 1000, or a cassette with the same spacing between cogs). Also, you'll likely need the 'light action' derailleurs on the Trek, which have less stiff springs and a floating upper jockey wheel, which all help with the indexing.
You could swap everything over, including the wheels. You might need a spacer for the front derailleur clamp, and stops on the downtube for the shifter housing, but otherwise, I think you could do it. Oh, and if the chainstays on your Centurion are longer, you may need to lengthen your chain.
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you know, for the most part I have no problems with modern gruppos on vintage bikes.
but I've got to admit this one just makes me feel sad, I think it's the wheels.
Marty (must be more of a retrogrouch than I thought).
but I've got to admit this one just makes me feel sad, I think it's the wheels.
Marty (must be more of a retrogrouch than I thought).
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