The "Before And After" Thread
12-08-12, 08:28 AM
#1426
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Dang it, you guys are going to make me build an off road bike yet.
12-08-12, 02:26 PM
#1427
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
I should have taken a before to show how badly damaged the threads on this Campy R tool were... it was nothing but a paperweight.
After some cutting, drilling, and brazing it is now a functional tool again... used a 10mm axle to replace the damaged end.
After some cutting, drilling, and brazing it is now a functional tool again... used a 10mm axle to replace the damaged end.
12-08-12, 05:37 PM
#1428
Chainstay Brake Mafia
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Originally Posted by FORDSVTPARTS
Dang it, you guys are going to make me build an off road bike yet.
and.. since my bump was on the last post of the previous page.. gonna repost the before/after here
there's almost nothing on this bike that hasn't been modified or replaced since I got it
Last edited by frantik; 12-08-12 at 05:40 PM.
12-08-12, 06:33 PM
#1429
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Before and after.
12-08-12, 06:35 PM
#1430
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Nice job, Von Carlos. The only thing I'd change would be gumwall tires rather than all-black, but that's a very pretty bike.
12-08-12, 08:22 PM
#1431
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Originally Posted by canyoneagle
Nice job, Von Carlos. The only thing I'd change would be gumwall tires rather than all-black, but that's a very pretty bike.
I also toyed with the idea of a red Concor saddle and red bar tape.
12-08-12, 08:25 PM
#1432
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i think you make the right decisions with regard to not going with red saddle/tape. though maybe yellow tape would be cool. might be too much yellow though.. the housings in yellow look good
12-08-12, 09:07 PM
#1434
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1973 Schwinn Paramount.
Before
After. (it's not clamped to the seat tube)
Parts just "put on for decal placement measurement"
Before
After. (it's not clamped to the seat tube)
Parts just "put on for decal placement measurement"
12-08-12, 09:09 PM
#1435
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
Originally Posted by Michael Angelo
1973 Schwinn Paramount.
That is so sweet.
12-09-12, 10:48 AM
#1436
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Originally Posted by Michael Angelo
1973 Schwinn Paramount.
Parts just "put on for decal placement measurement"
Parts just "put on for decal placement measurement"
Kind of pushes you to place the cage on the bars, behind the saddle or on the seat tube, which would be kind of high, but it is a big bike so it might work.
12-14-12, 08:23 AM
#1437
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Turbo 'Stache
Threw my leg over my 1st commute on the Turbo 'Stache this brisk morning .... She's a little creeky... Nothing a little tweaking won't fix ... Liking the new hand positions , going to take some time to get use to the upright riding
12-14-12, 12:13 PM
#1438
Senior Member
Originally Posted by VonCarlos
Thanks. Yes I agree, I think gum-walls will look better. The plan is to put some Pasela TGs on it; just happened to have these Bontragers laying around. Will also replace the Brooks for a Selle San Marco Concor or Turbo.
I also toyed with the idea of a red Concor saddle and red bar tape.
I also toyed with the idea of a red Concor saddle and red bar tape.
Beautiful bike - I love the curve of the fork. Elegant yet burly, like it means business.
12-14-12, 03:11 PM
#1439
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Originally Posted by due ruote
I think I'd stick with black. Either the red won't match, which won't look good, or it will, which will be too matchy-matchy. Just my (unsolicited) opinion.
Beautiful bike - I love the curve of the fork. Elegant yet burly, like it means business.
Beautiful bike - I love the curve of the fork. Elegant yet burly, like it means business.
And then with the red seat and tape. (2)
12-14-12, 03:18 PM
#1440
Senior Member
a couple before and after pics of my latest projects.
12-14-12, 03:29 PM
#1441
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Nice work. Is that fire engine red on the Torpado? 
__________________
-Randy
'72 Cilo Pacer • '72 Peugeot PX10 • '73 Speedwell Ti • '74 Nishiki Competition • '74 Peugeot UE-8 • '86 Look Equipe 753 • '86 Look KG86 • '89 Parkpre Team Road • '90 Parkpre Team MTB • '90 Merlin Ti
Avatar photo courtesy of jeffveloart.com, contact: contact: jeffnil8 (at) gmail.com.
-Randy
'72 Cilo Pacer • '72 Peugeot PX10 • '73 Speedwell Ti • '74 Nishiki Competition • '74 Peugeot UE-8 • '86 Look Equipe 753 • '86 Look KG86 • '89 Parkpre Team Road • '90 Parkpre Team MTB • '90 Merlin Ti
Avatar photo courtesy of jeffveloart.com, contact: contact: jeffnil8 (at) gmail.com.
12-14-12, 03:35 PM
#1442
Senior Member
Nah, to slow I wanted something faster so I went with a performance red.
12-14-12, 06:00 PM
#1443
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What's going on with the seatpost on the Torpado?
__________________
Shimano : Click :: Campy : Snap :: SRAM : Bang
Shimano : Click :: Campy : Snap :: SRAM : Bang
12-14-12, 06:04 PM
#1444
Senior Member
i have a long quill stem in there so i can hang it to paint it.
12-24-12, 03:58 AM
#1445
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Started as a bruchpainted bargin...
And ended as a a commuter for spring 2013
Mavic gears. SR chainset, stem and handelbar. Trecto brakes and nutted Alexrims w 28mm tyres
Yepp i love Gulf colors
Next project...
And ended as a a commuter for spring 2013
Mavic gears. SR chainset, stem and handelbar. Trecto brakes and nutted Alexrims w 28mm tyres
Yepp i love Gulf colors
Next project...
12-24-12, 10:48 AM
#1446
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Bikes: 2015 Windsor Oxford; 2012 Trek T900; 2008 Iron Horse Commuter; 1999 Specialized Stumpjumper M2 Pro; 1999 Kona Lava Dome; 1992 Trek 520 Tour; 1980 Fuji Grand Tour SE; 1973 Raleigh LTD-3; 1956 Robin Hood; 198x Worksman Industrial Trike
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1956 Robin Hood
Here are some before and after pics of a 1956 Robin Hood I just finished rebuilding. It was in very bad non-ridable shape. Here are things I did:
1) stripped the whole thing all he way down to screws and bolts. De-rust, grease and lubed everything. The hub took almost a full week of soaking in diesel/oil mixture because there was a lot of internal surface rust.
2) Straightened the fork. It was probably bent by a 500 lb rider, LOL. I used a tube and a car (trying to jack up the car).
3) Removed the surface rust and put two coats of clear coat.
4) previous people painted the rear wheel/hub/spokes red. I Cut the spokes, removed the paint on the hub (using brake fluid), found a better wheel, and laced with new spokes and nipples. In the process, I obtained a lot of original Sturmey Archer new-old-stock spokes and nipples. These are 276 mm pokes. If someone needs to rebuild a 36-hole rear wheel, these are the right spokes and we can trade.
5) I am not sure if the rear hub is original because it only has 36 holes but is dated "56".
6) The front wheel is also rusted out so I found another 36 spoke wheel.
7) Used fenders/saddle from a 1988 Sheffield bike. Someday I will find some Raleigh fenders/saddle.
8) Installed some Altenburger Synchron brakes, cable housing.
9) New Nimbus tires.
10) DIYed a TravelPro Platinum tote bag so it can be hooked onto the saddle with quick release. It is a pretty big saddle bag and my frame pump can be put inside. It is very convenient so I can move it from bike to bike.
The bike rides and shifts very smooth.
1) stripped the whole thing all he way down to screws and bolts. De-rust, grease and lubed everything. The hub took almost a full week of soaking in diesel/oil mixture because there was a lot of internal surface rust.
2) Straightened the fork. It was probably bent by a 500 lb rider, LOL. I used a tube and a car (trying to jack up the car).
3) Removed the surface rust and put two coats of clear coat.
4) previous people painted the rear wheel/hub/spokes red. I Cut the spokes, removed the paint on the hub (using brake fluid), found a better wheel, and laced with new spokes and nipples. In the process, I obtained a lot of original Sturmey Archer new-old-stock spokes and nipples. These are 276 mm pokes. If someone needs to rebuild a 36-hole rear wheel, these are the right spokes and we can trade.
5) I am not sure if the rear hub is original because it only has 36 holes but is dated "56".
6) The front wheel is also rusted out so I found another 36 spoke wheel.
7) Used fenders/saddle from a 1988 Sheffield bike. Someday I will find some Raleigh fenders/saddle.
8) Installed some Altenburger Synchron brakes, cable housing.
9) New Nimbus tires.
10) DIYed a TravelPro Platinum tote bag so it can be hooked onto the saddle with quick release. It is a pretty big saddle bag and my frame pump can be put inside. It is very convenient so I can move it from bike to bike.
The bike rides and shifts very smooth.
12-24-12, 03:13 PM
#1447
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Originally Posted by loubapache
Here are some before and after pics of a 1956 Robin Hood I just finished rebuilding. It was in very bad non-ridable shape. Here are things I did:
1) stripped the whole thing all he way down to screws and bolts. De-rust, grease and lubed everything. The hub took almost a full week of soaking in diesel/oil mixture because there was a lot of internal surface rust.
2) Straightened the fork. It was probably bent by a 500 lb rider, LOL. I used a tube and a car (trying to jack up the car).
3) Removed the surface rust and put two coats of clear coat.
4) previous people painted the rear wheel/hub/spokes red. I Cut the spokes, removed the paint on the hub (using brake fluid), found a better wheel, and laced with new spokes and nipples. In the process, I obtained a lot of original Sturmey Archer new-old-stock spokes and nipples. These are 276 mm pokes. If someone needs to rebuild a 36-hole rear wheel, these are the right spokes and we can trade.
5) I am not sure if the rear hub is original because it only has 36 holes but is dated "56".
6) The front wheel is also rusted out so I found another 36 spoke wheel.
7) Used fenders/saddle from a 1988 Sheffield bike. Someday I will find some Raleigh fenders/saddle.
8) Installed some Altenburger Synchron brakes, cable housing.
9) New Nimbus tires.
10) DIYed a TravelPro Platinum tote bag so it can be hooked onto the saddle with quick release. It is a pretty big saddle bag and my frame pump can be put inside. It is very convenient so I can move it from bike to bike.
The bike rides and shifts very smooth.
1) stripped the whole thing all he way down to screws and bolts. De-rust, grease and lubed everything. The hub took almost a full week of soaking in diesel/oil mixture because there was a lot of internal surface rust.
2) Straightened the fork. It was probably bent by a 500 lb rider, LOL. I used a tube and a car (trying to jack up the car).
3) Removed the surface rust and put two coats of clear coat.
4) previous people painted the rear wheel/hub/spokes red. I Cut the spokes, removed the paint on the hub (using brake fluid), found a better wheel, and laced with new spokes and nipples. In the process, I obtained a lot of original Sturmey Archer new-old-stock spokes and nipples. These are 276 mm pokes. If someone needs to rebuild a 36-hole rear wheel, these are the right spokes and we can trade.
5) I am not sure if the rear hub is original because it only has 36 holes but is dated "56".
6) The front wheel is also rusted out so I found another 36 spoke wheel.
7) Used fenders/saddle from a 1988 Sheffield bike. Someday I will find some Raleigh fenders/saddle.
8) Installed some Altenburger Synchron brakes, cable housing.
9) New Nimbus tires.
10) DIYed a TravelPro Platinum tote bag so it can be hooked onto the saddle with quick release. It is a pretty big saddle bag and my frame pump can be put inside. It is very convenient so I can move it from bike to bike.
The bike rides and shifts very smooth.
12-24-12, 03:39 PM
#1448
Hopelessly addicted...
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Central Maryland
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Originally Posted by mille
Next project...
12-25-12, 02:42 AM
#1449
Senior Member
before:
after(for now):
after(for now):
12-25-12, 04:13 AM
#1450
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Originally Posted by photogravity
Is that a lo pro? Cool. Whatcha going to do with that?
Needs full Dura Ace and aero 700 wheels.
Hope it will be finished in springtime but i have no hurry.
