Pay it forward...
#626
Senior Member
One 36h Araya Aero 1 World Champion 700C tubular rim with some brake wear but in otherwise nice condition--comes with glue residue--to anyone who needs it for the cost of shipping. Will include 36 nipples and 34 (for the life of me I don't know where the other two went when I delaced the wheel) spoke washers. PM me if you want to make a claim.
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...1#post10924811
#628
Pro status
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Location: Bremerton, Washington
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I just want to offer up my services if anyone in the puget sound, wa. area needs any bike related help.... or if you just want to chat about bikes I'm up for that too.
#629
aka: Dr. Cannondale
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Yours for the cost of postage:
A Sugino low end double crankset. 170 arms, steel rings, big one is swaged onto the arm, small one is bolted to that. Little bit of rust but nothing terrible and the teeth are in great shape. No nunbers on the rings but I would guess around a 50/40. These work great. CLAIMED
Two pairs of older Suntour DT friction shift levers. No idea what model these are, if they are complete, or, well, anything at all about them except they were in a box of stuff I got with a deal. For the price and if you need friction shifters, bet there's a working pair between them. CLAIMED
A Sugino low end double crankset. 170 arms, steel rings, big one is swaged onto the arm, small one is bolted to that. Little bit of rust but nothing terrible and the teeth are in great shape. No nunbers on the rings but I would guess around a 50/40. These work great. CLAIMED
Two pairs of older Suntour DT friction shift levers. No idea what model these are, if they are complete, or, well, anything at all about them except they were in a box of stuff I got with a deal. For the price and if you need friction shifters, bet there's a working pair between them. CLAIMED
Last edited by rccardr; 06-24-10 at 11:08 AM.
#630
Fuji Fan
^pmed on shifters
Edit: Nevermind
Edit: Nevermind
Last edited by beech333; 06-24-10 at 07:35 PM.
#631
New York Commuter
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Old leather saddle, a Speedic. Worn, but very rideable. Yours for shipping.
CLAIMED!
CLAIMED!
Last edited by kimronthomas; 06-24-10 at 06:51 PM.
#632
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61cm Nishiki Olympic. Decent condition, I believe it would clean up well. No shipping, must be picked up in Bettendorf, Iowa. I hope that with Summer travel in season, someone may be able to pick this up.I'm 8 minutes off I80 at the Iowa/Illinois borber.
BIKE HAS BEEN CLAIMED!!!
BIKE HAS BEEN CLAIMED!!!
Last edited by slushlover2; 07-08-10 at 05:02 PM.
#633
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Thats a gorgeous bike. Im sure someone in the clydesdales sub forum would be interested considering it is a big bike.
#634
Wherever I may roam....
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Location: Topton Pa
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Not all that exciting but, could be useful for a womans commuter. It's not rusty, it just needs a bath. It'll be freshly showered before it's trip. Yours for shipping
#635
Too many bikes
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Time sync
I am thinking this is an UO-8. Anyway, it is basically OK. Some rust.
Problem is someone reamed out the seat tube slightly and I have given up on trying
figure out what combo of shim and post works.
Headset is in OK condition, bottom bracket cups are good.
Free if you pick it up, otherwise I will try to keep the shipping to $25.
EDIT: Failed to list size: 56 c-to-c.
Problem is someone reamed out the seat tube slightly and I have given up on trying
figure out what combo of shim and post works.
Headset is in OK condition, bottom bracket cups are good.
Free if you pick it up, otherwise I will try to keep the shipping to $25.
EDIT: Failed to list size: 56 c-to-c.
Last edited by bikemore; 07-16-10 at 04:29 AM.
#636
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Indiana
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Paying forward...
I have an 80's "Manta" Mixte that needs to be fixed up in Central Indiana. I'd be willing to drive up to ~ 50 miles from the Indianapolis area to meet someone who would like to give this bike some love. I'm not convinced I know how to ship a bicycle, much less that this one is worth it.
More Photos, at higher res: https://w9zeb.org/gallery/?level=album&id=82
<--
I have an 80's "Manta" Mixte that needs to be fixed up in Central Indiana. I'd be willing to drive up to ~ 50 miles from the Indianapolis area to meet someone who would like to give this bike some love. I'm not convinced I know how to ship a bicycle, much less that this one is worth it.
More Photos, at higher res: https://w9zeb.org/gallery/?level=album&id=82
<--
#637
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I have a 50s girls' Schwinn Spitfire, 24" wheels, blue and white color scheme. In rough shape, spokes and rims are junk, good amount of surface rust but the colors do still come through. I picked it up off the curb but have no earthly idea what to do with it. If someone wants a rat-rod project...pick up only, in Madison WI.
I also have a very rusty Schwinn 20" cantilevered frame bike with the extra-thick BMX spokes. Very rusty, the hubs don't even turn, and someone hose-clamped the seatpost to the outside of the seat tube...
I also have a very rusty Schwinn 20" cantilevered frame bike with the extra-thick BMX spokes. Very rusty, the hubs don't even turn, and someone hose-clamped the seatpost to the outside of the seat tube...
#638
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Have a set of mavic gp4 tubular rims laced to a set of mavic hubs (cant remember the model) and I should have the original Quick releases also (need to find them).
Wheels are super true and no problems so far, ideal for a restoration. I live in 20164 just in case somebody from the area wants them. Offers? Pm me please.
Thanks.
Wheels are super true and no problems so far, ideal for a restoration. I live in 20164 just in case somebody from the area wants them. Offers? Pm me please.
Thanks.
You are missing the point of this "Pay it Forward" thread if you are trying to sell those here.
#639
Roadie in Training
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Have a set of mavic gp4 tubular rims laced to a set of mavic hubs (cant remember the model) and I should have the original Quick releases also (need to find them).
Wheels are super true and no problems so far, ideal for a restoration. I live in 20164 just in case somebody from the area wants them. Offers? Pm me please.
Thanks.
Wheels are super true and no problems so far, ideal for a restoration. I live in 20164 just in case somebody from the area wants them. Offers? Pm me please.
Thanks.
#640
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#641
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Wow, This is a nice touring bike. It will be a shame to cannibalize a nice bike like that. If I had it, I would use it just as it is or may be switch the frame to the men's frame I have, as I have a mismatched 27" wheel in the back and no brake or shift levers. Wonder how much it would cost to ship to 08820 from FL.
#642
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Location: Port Orange, FL
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I have already removed a bunch of parts, the fenders, racks, pfletcher kickstand, trekking bars, seat post, and MKS touring pedals are already removed. The crankset, drivertrain, brakes, wheelset, and stem are all still there. The spokes are corroded but the wheeset is good structurally. This was my wifes touring bike, but we bought her a new Long Haul Trucker.
#643
hi
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I have already removed a bunch of parts, the fenders, racks, pfletcher kickstand, trekking bars, seat post, and MKS touring pedals are already removed. The crankset, drivertrain, brakes, wheelset, and stem are all still there. The spokes are corroded but the wheeset is good structurally. This was my wifes touring bike, but we bought her a new Long Haul Trucker.
#644
PanGalacticGargleBlaster
Join Date: Apr 2009
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I've got a box of "Schwinn Approved" parts that anyone is welcome to pick from. Its all in good working condition
Its nothing special but it all works...the brakes stop a bike, the derailleurs change the gears...its all takeoffs from Varsities and Continentals and maybe a Super Sport or two.
PM me, let me know what you want its yours for postage.
In the box There are:
side pull Brake calipers
Brake levers w/suicide levers
Front Der's
Rear Ders'
Twinn Stick Stem Shifters
a Fork from a 25" framed '72 Varsity, Green.
possibly a schwinn approved headset
One Piece Crankset (that would be expensive to ship...it weighs a ton)
Its nothing special but it all works...the brakes stop a bike, the derailleurs change the gears...its all takeoffs from Varsities and Continentals and maybe a Super Sport or two.
PM me, let me know what you want its yours for postage.
In the box There are:
side pull Brake calipers
Brake levers w/suicide levers
Front Der's
Rear Ders'
Twinn Stick Stem Shifters
a Fork from a 25" framed '72 Varsity, Green.
possibly a schwinn approved headset
One Piece Crankset (that would be expensive to ship...it weighs a ton)
__________________
--Don't Panic.
--Don't Panic.
#645
Senior Member
#646
Senior Member
I've got a box of "Schwinn Approved" parts that anyone is welcome to pick from. Its all in good working condition
Its nothing special but it all works...the brakes stop a bike, the derailleurs change the gears...its all takeoffs from Varsities and Continentals and maybe a Super Sport or two.
PM me, let me know what you want its yours for postage.
In the box There are:
side pull Brake calipers
Brake levers w/suicide levers
Front Der's
Rear Ders'
Twinn Stick Stem Shifters
a Fork from a 25" framed '72 Varsity, Green.
possibly a schwinn approved headset
One Piece Crankset (that would be expensive to ship...it weighs a ton)
Its nothing special but it all works...the brakes stop a bike, the derailleurs change the gears...its all takeoffs from Varsities and Continentals and maybe a Super Sport or two.
PM me, let me know what you want its yours for postage.
In the box There are:
side pull Brake calipers
Brake levers w/suicide levers
Front Der's
Rear Ders'
Twinn Stick Stem Shifters
a Fork from a 25" framed '72 Varsity, Green.
possibly a schwinn approved headset
One Piece Crankset (that would be expensive to ship...it weighs a ton)
edit: found one at a BMX store!
Last edited by jet sanchEz; 07-22-10 at 11:57 AM.
#647
Senior Member
1954-ish Humber Sports [I will post photos asap]
EDIT: Link to photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/8214363...7624437546877/
EDIT: Eager beaver has already sent a PM. I'll edit this post it it's taken.
Do you have love in your heart and a flexible restoration budget?
This is a real fixer-upper. Small "men's" style frame.
The high points: Beautiful original Humber head badge. Incredibly sweet bi-tubal (is that a word?) fork and the awesome, distinctive five-guys-running-in-a-circle-and-sharing-one-big-head chainwheel. "Humber Sports" logo on downtube is still clearly visible. Front wheel is in OK condition, some chrome missing from the rim. Raleigh hub with oil port and Dunlop 26 x 1 3/8 rim. The apparently missing pump peg is in one of the bags of parts -- could probably be epoxied (or brazed, if you can) back in place.
The low points: Paint is in poor condition. No rear wheel. Substantial surface rust EVERYWHERE. The chainring cleaned up pretty well with oxalic acid, but I didn't get to the rest. Brooks saddle was broken at the nose and the leather has come free and looks like a blue corn tortilla chip. Saddle frame had some possibly structural damage to the rust. Chainguard is beat to heck and very rusty. I tried to remove rust from the frame with oxalic acid and managed only to leave a lot of that yellow residue in addition to a lot of rust (plus turtle wax over that). The frame looks bad. Handlebar is dented and scratched with surface rust. Hunt Wilde grips are permanently grimy and yellowed but intact. There is a very scratched aluminum seat post (I'm guessing not original) that fits which I'll throw in if you want it. Sachs chain is probably a replacement but it's in good shape -- you can have it if you want it. Chainstays look somewhat crushed from a previous, over-zealous kickstand installation.
MISSING: Rear wheel (got an extra 50s AW and dunlop rim?). There were some replacement parts on it which you probably don't want: non-raleigh rusted chrome-steel brake lever, cheap 70s rubber pedals, a very rusty non-raleigh brake. Some small parts disintegrated when I took this bike apart, but most of the key raleigh bits (e.g., clamp on stop and pulley for the shifter cable) are there.
Yours for the cost of shipping (or you can pick up in Bloomington, Indiana) if you meet my conditions:
You must be a C&V regular.
You must promise to restore the bike or at least get it back on the road. I would much prefer someone to have it who will put it back together and ride it around (or give it away to someone who will ride it around and take care of it).
You will post pics in C&V when the rebuild is complete.
EDIT: Eager beaver has already sent a PM. I'll edit this post it it's taken.
Do you have love in your heart and a flexible restoration budget?
This is a real fixer-upper. Small "men's" style frame.
The high points: Beautiful original Humber head badge. Incredibly sweet bi-tubal (is that a word?) fork and the awesome, distinctive five-guys-running-in-a-circle-and-sharing-one-big-head chainwheel. "Humber Sports" logo on downtube is still clearly visible. Front wheel is in OK condition, some chrome missing from the rim. Raleigh hub with oil port and Dunlop 26 x 1 3/8 rim. The apparently missing pump peg is in one of the bags of parts -- could probably be epoxied (or brazed, if you can) back in place.
The low points: Paint is in poor condition. No rear wheel. Substantial surface rust EVERYWHERE. The chainring cleaned up pretty well with oxalic acid, but I didn't get to the rest. Brooks saddle was broken at the nose and the leather has come free and looks like a blue corn tortilla chip. Saddle frame had some possibly structural damage to the rust. Chainguard is beat to heck and very rusty. I tried to remove rust from the frame with oxalic acid and managed only to leave a lot of that yellow residue in addition to a lot of rust (plus turtle wax over that). The frame looks bad. Handlebar is dented and scratched with surface rust. Hunt Wilde grips are permanently grimy and yellowed but intact. There is a very scratched aluminum seat post (I'm guessing not original) that fits which I'll throw in if you want it. Sachs chain is probably a replacement but it's in good shape -- you can have it if you want it. Chainstays look somewhat crushed from a previous, over-zealous kickstand installation.
MISSING: Rear wheel (got an extra 50s AW and dunlop rim?). There were some replacement parts on it which you probably don't want: non-raleigh rusted chrome-steel brake lever, cheap 70s rubber pedals, a very rusty non-raleigh brake. Some small parts disintegrated when I took this bike apart, but most of the key raleigh bits (e.g., clamp on stop and pulley for the shifter cable) are there.
Yours for the cost of shipping (or you can pick up in Bloomington, Indiana) if you meet my conditions:
You must be a C&V regular.
You must promise to restore the bike or at least get it back on the road. I would much prefer someone to have it who will put it back together and ride it around (or give it away to someone who will ride it around and take care of it).
You will post pics in C&V when the rebuild is complete.
Last edited by Roll-Monroe-Co; 07-22-10 at 09:55 PM. Reason: spelling
#648
Senior Member
50s Monark steel step-through cruiser with springer fork [I will post photos asap]
EDIT: Link to photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/8214363...7624437546877/
EDIT: Eager beaver has already sent a PM. I'll edit this post it it's taken.
Things you need to know:
1. The bike was obviously once in some kind of mishap, and the various fork parts are bent, the steerer tube eggregiously so. This thing (springy (leading link suspension?) fork) is so cool, I hope there's someone out there who has access to the tools/skills to bend it all back and get it working again (don't know why it didn't have some kind of bearing surfaces at the pivot points--the thing was frozen up with rust when I took it apart).
2. Lots of rust and some rust damage on the components (the frame and fork(s) are actually not too bad in terms of rust). Front hub is deeply pitted. Lots of missing chrome on rear hub. You'll see that some of the components I have treated with oxalic acid, to varying effect.
Here's what you get:
Frame: Repainted crappily with a brush. Looks like it was originally black and cream (cream paint hidden under headbadge is just beautiful--this bike must have been quite pretty in its day). Looks undamaged by whatever event mangled the fork (must have been some wreck -- this thing is solid like a frigging aircraft carrier).
Fork parts, as described above.
Rims: rusty, but they still seem to have their integrity. Could probably be sandblasted and repainted and look great.
Fenders: See "rims." Only one really bad dent.
Two very old, if not original, Michigan Safety Tread 26 x 2.125 tires, one of which was shot but the other could be reusable (some dry rot). Some very substantial Gillette (Ensign) tubes (orig?) -- one holds air, the other has a leak, but the rubber is remarkably supple.
Bendix front and New Departure rear hubs. Rear is missing a cap or sprung ball bearing for the oiler port. I took the hub all the way apart and I'm not so sure I put it back together right, but it's all there ... I think. In fact, there might be a few little pieces left over. Anyway, it's just put together dry. You'll want to rebuild it again.
Ancient leather hub polisher.
Cool 3D stamped Monark headbadge.
Dogleg crank with complete bb assembly. Chainwheel has lost most of its chrome but is intact.
Really cool H. C. Jiffy drop forged steel kickstand. Really, for a 40-pound kickstand, an elegant and lovely device. It's just calling out to be sanded down and nickel plated.
Headset -- it's mangy, but I think it's orig.
Sprung Mesinger saddle and seatpost. Pan and undercarriage are pretty rusty, but I don't think it's structural. Original-seeming vinyl top is intact with no rips.
Chainguard is rusty and beat up, but seems to have all its original hardware.
Stem has severe rust freckling and chrome damage. I seem to have lost the bolt and wedge for it.
EDIT: Different pedals. I'm betting that the nicer one is original ... it's rebuildable and would probably clean up nicely with some TLC )... but what about a mate?)
Edit 2: You also get all the original spoke nipples that I was able to save.
Edit 3: I know that people here aren't so into these ballooner bikes. If you know and can vouch for someone else who is into this stuff, do let me know and we'll talk.
OK. That's it. Happy bidding.
Yours for the cost of shipping (or you can pick up in Bloomington, Indiana) if you meet my conditions:
You must be a C&V regular.
You must promise to restore the bike or at least get it back on the road. I would much prefer someone to have it who will put it back together and ride it around (or give it away to someone who will ride it around and take care of it).
You will post pics in C&V when the rebuild is complete.
EDIT: Eager beaver has already sent a PM. I'll edit this post it it's taken.
Things you need to know:
1. The bike was obviously once in some kind of mishap, and the various fork parts are bent, the steerer tube eggregiously so. This thing (springy (leading link suspension?) fork) is so cool, I hope there's someone out there who has access to the tools/skills to bend it all back and get it working again (don't know why it didn't have some kind of bearing surfaces at the pivot points--the thing was frozen up with rust when I took it apart).
2. Lots of rust and some rust damage on the components (the frame and fork(s) are actually not too bad in terms of rust). Front hub is deeply pitted. Lots of missing chrome on rear hub. You'll see that some of the components I have treated with oxalic acid, to varying effect.
Here's what you get:
Frame: Repainted crappily with a brush. Looks like it was originally black and cream (cream paint hidden under headbadge is just beautiful--this bike must have been quite pretty in its day). Looks undamaged by whatever event mangled the fork (must have been some wreck -- this thing is solid like a frigging aircraft carrier).
Fork parts, as described above.
Rims: rusty, but they still seem to have their integrity. Could probably be sandblasted and repainted and look great.
Fenders: See "rims." Only one really bad dent.
Two very old, if not original, Michigan Safety Tread 26 x 2.125 tires, one of which was shot but the other could be reusable (some dry rot). Some very substantial Gillette (Ensign) tubes (orig?) -- one holds air, the other has a leak, but the rubber is remarkably supple.
Bendix front and New Departure rear hubs. Rear is missing a cap or sprung ball bearing for the oiler port. I took the hub all the way apart and I'm not so sure I put it back together right, but it's all there ... I think. In fact, there might be a few little pieces left over. Anyway, it's just put together dry. You'll want to rebuild it again.
Ancient leather hub polisher.
Cool 3D stamped Monark headbadge.
Dogleg crank with complete bb assembly. Chainwheel has lost most of its chrome but is intact.
Really cool H. C. Jiffy drop forged steel kickstand. Really, for a 40-pound kickstand, an elegant and lovely device. It's just calling out to be sanded down and nickel plated.
Headset -- it's mangy, but I think it's orig.
Sprung Mesinger saddle and seatpost. Pan and undercarriage are pretty rusty, but I don't think it's structural. Original-seeming vinyl top is intact with no rips.
Chainguard is rusty and beat up, but seems to have all its original hardware.
Stem has severe rust freckling and chrome damage. I seem to have lost the bolt and wedge for it.
EDIT: Different pedals. I'm betting that the nicer one is original ... it's rebuildable and would probably clean up nicely with some TLC )... but what about a mate?)
Edit 2: You also get all the original spoke nipples that I was able to save.
Edit 3: I know that people here aren't so into these ballooner bikes. If you know and can vouch for someone else who is into this stuff, do let me know and we'll talk.
OK. That's it. Happy bidding.
Yours for the cost of shipping (or you can pick up in Bloomington, Indiana) if you meet my conditions:
You must be a C&V regular.
You must promise to restore the bike or at least get it back on the road. I would much prefer someone to have it who will put it back together and ride it around (or give it away to someone who will ride it around and take care of it).
You will post pics in C&V when the rebuild is complete.
Last edited by Roll-Monroe-Co; 07-22-10 at 09:56 PM. Reason: important details
#649
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: West of St. Louis
Posts: 864
Bikes: (3) 1970's Raleigh Sports, (1) 1968 Robin Hood 3 speed, 1974 Raleigh Grand Prix, 1976 Raleigh Grand Prix, 1969 Peugeot UO-18, 1971 Peugeot UO-08, 1980 Giant road bike, 1954 Humber, 1940ish Hercules Popular, 1963 Dunelt, 2007 Trek 3700 mountain bike
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Do you have love in your heart and a flexible restoration budget?
This is a real fixer-upper. Small "men's" style frame.
The high points: Beautiful original Humber head badge. Incredibly sweet bi-tubal (is that a word?) fork and the awesome, distinctive five-guys-running-in-a-circle-and-sharing-one-big-head chainwheel. "Humber Sports" logo on downtube is still clearly visible. Front wheel is in OK condition, some chrome missing from the rim. Raleigh hub with oil port and Dunlop 26 x 1 3/8 rim. The apparently missing pump peg is in one of the bags of parts -- could probably be epoxied (or brazed, if you can) back in place.
The low points: Paint is in poor condition. No rear wheel. Substantial surface rust EVERYWHERE. The chainring cleaned up pretty well with oxalic acid, but I didn't get to the rest. Brooks saddle was broken at the nose and the leather has come free and looks like a blue corn tortilla chip. Saddle frame had some possibly structural damage to the rust. Chainguard is beat to heck and very rusty. I tried to remove rust from the frame with oxalic acid and managed only to leave a lot of that yellow residue in addition to a lot of rust (plus turtle wax over that). The frame looks bad. Handlebar is dented and scratched with surface rust. Hunt Wilde grips are permanently grimy and yellowed but intact. There is a very scratched aluminum seat post (I'm guessing not original) that fits which I'll throw in if you want it. Sachs chain is probably a replacement but it's in good shape -- you can have it if you want it. Chainstays look somewhat crushed from a previous, over-zealous kickstand installation.
MISSING: Rear wheel (got an extra 50s AW and dunlop rim?). There were some replacement parts on it which you probably don't want: non-raleigh rusted chrome-steel brake lever, cheap 70s rubber pedals, a very rusty non-raleigh brake. Some small parts disintegrated when I took this bike apart, but most of the key raleigh bits (e.g., clamp on stop and pulley for the shifter cable) are there.
Yours for the cost of shipping (or you can pick up in Bloomington, Indiana) if you meet my conditions:
You must be a C&V regular.
You must promise to restore the bike or at least get it back on the road. I would much prefer someone to have it who will put it back together and ride it around (or give it away to someone who will ride it around and take care of it).
You will post pics in C&V when the rebuild is complete.
This is a real fixer-upper. Small "men's" style frame.
The high points: Beautiful original Humber head badge. Incredibly sweet bi-tubal (is that a word?) fork and the awesome, distinctive five-guys-running-in-a-circle-and-sharing-one-big-head chainwheel. "Humber Sports" logo on downtube is still clearly visible. Front wheel is in OK condition, some chrome missing from the rim. Raleigh hub with oil port and Dunlop 26 x 1 3/8 rim. The apparently missing pump peg is in one of the bags of parts -- could probably be epoxied (or brazed, if you can) back in place.
The low points: Paint is in poor condition. No rear wheel. Substantial surface rust EVERYWHERE. The chainring cleaned up pretty well with oxalic acid, but I didn't get to the rest. Brooks saddle was broken at the nose and the leather has come free and looks like a blue corn tortilla chip. Saddle frame had some possibly structural damage to the rust. Chainguard is beat to heck and very rusty. I tried to remove rust from the frame with oxalic acid and managed only to leave a lot of that yellow residue in addition to a lot of rust (plus turtle wax over that). The frame looks bad. Handlebar is dented and scratched with surface rust. Hunt Wilde grips are permanently grimy and yellowed but intact. There is a very scratched aluminum seat post (I'm guessing not original) that fits which I'll throw in if you want it. Sachs chain is probably a replacement but it's in good shape -- you can have it if you want it. Chainstays look somewhat crushed from a previous, over-zealous kickstand installation.
MISSING: Rear wheel (got an extra 50s AW and dunlop rim?). There were some replacement parts on it which you probably don't want: non-raleigh rusted chrome-steel brake lever, cheap 70s rubber pedals, a very rusty non-raleigh brake. Some small parts disintegrated when I took this bike apart, but most of the key raleigh bits (e.g., clamp on stop and pulley for the shifter cable) are there.
Yours for the cost of shipping (or you can pick up in Bloomington, Indiana) if you meet my conditions:
You must be a C&V regular.
You must promise to restore the bike or at least get it back on the road. I would much prefer someone to have it who will put it back together and ride it around (or give it away to someone who will ride it around and take care of it).
You will post pics in C&V when the rebuild is complete.
#650
Senior Member
THIS IS STILL AVAILABLE. The main part of the fork is pretty messed up. The steerer is bent at the fork crown and midway up. Perhaps it could be straightened, but maybe the steerer needs to be replaced. Don't know if the bike is worth this. In addition, the fork legs are bent out of plane ... probably these could be bent back pretty easily. I sure would like to see this bike saved.
Things you need to know:
1. The bike was obviously once in some kind of mishap, and the various fork parts are bent, the steerer tube eggregiously so. This thing (springy (leading link suspension?) fork) is so cool, I hope there's someone out there who has access to the tools/skills to bend it all back and get it working again (don't know why it didn't have some kind of bearing surfaces at the pivot points--the thing was frozen up with rust when I took it apart).
2. Lots of rust and some rust damage on the components (the frame and fork(s) are actually not too bad in terms of rust). Front hub is deeply pitted. Lots of missing chrome on rear hub. You'll see that some of the components I have treated with oxalic acid, to varying effect.
Here's what you get:
Frame: Repainted crappily with a brush. Looks like it was originally black and cream (cream paint hidden under headbadge is just beautiful--this bike must have been quite pretty in its day). Looks undamaged by whatever event mangled the fork (must have been some wreck -- this thing is solid like a frigging aircraft carrier).
Fork parts, as described above.
Rims: rusty, but they still seem to have their integrity. Could probably be sandblasted and repainted and look great.
Fenders: See "rims." Only one really bad dent.
Two very old, if not original, Michigan Safety Tread 26 x 2.125 tires, one of which was shot but the other could be reusable (some dry rot). Some very substantial Gillette (Ensign) tubes (orig?) -- one holds air, the other has a leak, but the rubber is remarkably supple.
Bendix front and New Departure rear hubs. Rear is missing a cap or sprung ball bearing for the oiler port. I took the hub all the way apart and I'm not so sure I put it back together right, but it's all there ... I think. In fact, there might be a few little pieces left over. Anyway, it's just put together dry. You'll want to rebuild it again.
Ancient leather hub polisher.
Cool 3D stamped Monark headbadge.
Dogleg crank with complete bb assembly. Chainwheel has lost most of its chrome but is intact.
Really cool H. C. Jiffy drop forged steel kickstand. Really, for a 40-pound kickstand, an elegant and lovely device. It's just calling out to be sanded down and nickel plated.
Headset -- it's mangy, but I think it's orig.
Sprung Mesinger saddle and seatpost. Pan and undercarriage are pretty rusty, but I don't think it's structural. Original-seeming vinyl top is intact with no rips.
Chainguard is rusty and beat up, but seems to have all its original hardware.
Stem has severe rust freckling and chrome damage. I seem to have lost the bolt and wedge for it. EDIT: When I was examining the fork, I realized that I don't have these because: (1) The stem bolt snapped off when I was removing it and (2) the wedge is stuck in the steerer.
EDIT: Different pedals. I'm betting that the nicer one is original ... it's rebuildable and would probably clean up nicely with some TLC )... but what about a mate?)
Edit 2: You also get all the original spoke nipples that I was able to save.
Edit 3: I know that people here aren't so into these ballooner bikes. If you know and can vouch for someone else who is into this stuff, do let me know and we'll talk.
OK. That's it. Happy bidding.
Yours for the cost of shipping (or you can pick up in Bloomington, Indiana) if you meet my conditions:
You must be a C&V regular.
You must promise to restore the bike or at least get it back on the road. I would much prefer someone to have it who will put it back together and ride it around (or give it away to someone who will ride it around and take care of it).
You will post pics in C&V when the rebuild is complete.
Things you need to know:
1. The bike was obviously once in some kind of mishap, and the various fork parts are bent, the steerer tube eggregiously so. This thing (springy (leading link suspension?) fork) is so cool, I hope there's someone out there who has access to the tools/skills to bend it all back and get it working again (don't know why it didn't have some kind of bearing surfaces at the pivot points--the thing was frozen up with rust when I took it apart).
2. Lots of rust and some rust damage on the components (the frame and fork(s) are actually not too bad in terms of rust). Front hub is deeply pitted. Lots of missing chrome on rear hub. You'll see that some of the components I have treated with oxalic acid, to varying effect.
Here's what you get:
Frame: Repainted crappily with a brush. Looks like it was originally black and cream (cream paint hidden under headbadge is just beautiful--this bike must have been quite pretty in its day). Looks undamaged by whatever event mangled the fork (must have been some wreck -- this thing is solid like a frigging aircraft carrier).
Fork parts, as described above.
Rims: rusty, but they still seem to have their integrity. Could probably be sandblasted and repainted and look great.
Fenders: See "rims." Only one really bad dent.
Two very old, if not original, Michigan Safety Tread 26 x 2.125 tires, one of which was shot but the other could be reusable (some dry rot). Some very substantial Gillette (Ensign) tubes (orig?) -- one holds air, the other has a leak, but the rubber is remarkably supple.
Bendix front and New Departure rear hubs. Rear is missing a cap or sprung ball bearing for the oiler port. I took the hub all the way apart and I'm not so sure I put it back together right, but it's all there ... I think. In fact, there might be a few little pieces left over. Anyway, it's just put together dry. You'll want to rebuild it again.
Ancient leather hub polisher.
Cool 3D stamped Monark headbadge.
Dogleg crank with complete bb assembly. Chainwheel has lost most of its chrome but is intact.
Really cool H. C. Jiffy drop forged steel kickstand. Really, for a 40-pound kickstand, an elegant and lovely device. It's just calling out to be sanded down and nickel plated.
Headset -- it's mangy, but I think it's orig.
Sprung Mesinger saddle and seatpost. Pan and undercarriage are pretty rusty, but I don't think it's structural. Original-seeming vinyl top is intact with no rips.
Chainguard is rusty and beat up, but seems to have all its original hardware.
Stem has severe rust freckling and chrome damage. I seem to have lost the bolt and wedge for it. EDIT: When I was examining the fork, I realized that I don't have these because: (1) The stem bolt snapped off when I was removing it and (2) the wedge is stuck in the steerer.
EDIT: Different pedals. I'm betting that the nicer one is original ... it's rebuildable and would probably clean up nicely with some TLC )... but what about a mate?)
Edit 2: You also get all the original spoke nipples that I was able to save.
Edit 3: I know that people here aren't so into these ballooner bikes. If you know and can vouch for someone else who is into this stuff, do let me know and we'll talk.
OK. That's it. Happy bidding.
Yours for the cost of shipping (or you can pick up in Bloomington, Indiana) if you meet my conditions:
You must be a C&V regular.
You must promise to restore the bike or at least get it back on the road. I would much prefer someone to have it who will put it back together and ride it around (or give it away to someone who will ride it around and take care of it).
You will post pics in C&V when the rebuild is complete.
Last edited by Roll-Monroe-Co; 07-25-10 at 09:59 AM.