Let's talk wheels...
 

It's an area where my head just seems thick. I want to get some 700c wheels that are campy compatible (10 speed).

I really have never paid attention to wheels. I have some bikes with the original arayas from the early 80's. But I also have a pair of deep v's set up for shimano. I like these wheels. I can feel a difference in them.

So, I can barter for some 700c wheels here on BF and have them remade for campy. I've heard it's not great for wheels to be remade.

I can order new rims and have them custom made. If I do that, why are the deep v's so much less expensive than other brands?

Next, do the wheels need to know if they're going to be used on a 10 speed? Are they dished differently?

What else do I need to know?

Do you currently have Campy-compatible hubs in hand?

Nope. I have nothing Campy wheel related right now. Wait.... I do have a campy rear hub for a 6 speed on another bike, but I haven't decided if I'm going to mess with that bike. I suspect not.

Are you talking new Campy 10 speed rear freehubs, or old Campy hubs using 5/6/7 speed freewheels?

Are you referring to a 5 speed freewheel or a 10 speed cassette when you say 10 speed wheel?

If the latter, and you don't have anything handy, either buy a new set of wheels online or get them built for you.

Because they are crap. Fixed riders toot them but they aren't using brakes. You can see daylight through the rim joint. They are a pain to true. And I have heard from some of my most trusted mechanic friends that they suck for building. They take longer because you have to spend more time to get it true. That is signs of a junk rim.

Rims: Basic types are tubular and clincher. Since you're looking at 700c size is no issue. Rims come in different widths but unless you're using some extreme size tire, this doesn't matter much. There are various contruction styles of rims - eyelets, double walls, non-symmetrical, etc, mostly to trade weight vs strength. Finally, they are drilled for presta or schrader valves.

Hubs: The hub and wheel must match the distance between the dropouts (OLD). The standard road sizes are 120mm (5 speed and ultra 6), 126mm (6 and 7 speed) and 130mm (8,9,10 speed or 7 with a spacer). There are freewheel hubs where the freewheel screws onto the hub and freehub hubs that use a cassette. Campy cassettes don't work on Shimano hubs and vice versa. Dura Ace parts don't always interchange on all Shimano parts. The OLD determines the dish so a wheel built for an 8 speed cassette can be changed to a 10 speed wheel just by switching cassettes. If you want to change a 7 speed wheel to a 8,9,10 speed wheel, it will need a new freehub body and need to be re-dished. If it had a freewheel hub you would need a whole new hub.

Spokes: Don't bother with anything but stainless steel. Butted or double-butted spokes are nice since they flex a bit more but are stronger near the ends where it counts. You can use alloy nipples to save weight but they're prone to stripping and only save a few grams; much better to use brass nipples. There are various wheel lacing patterns used but the old standard cross-3 is usually just fine.

Build quality is important if you want the wheel to last and stay true for a long time.

I'd get in contact with a good wheel builder and explain what you want. They'll probably ask you about your riding style and your budget and then recommend a set of rims and hubs. Labor for building wheels isn't that high, maybe $40 per wheel. It's not that hard to do yourself if you're patient but unless you really want to do it, you won't save much, and most likely your first wheels won't be your best.

I have a campy Centaur: 10 speed cassette, triple crank and derailleurs. I'm now trying to decide what to do with the brakes, and I'm thinking of getting ergo shifters. I'd like to get 700c wheels.

I heard that the deep V's were very strong! That they were a pain to true because they didn't use (forgetting the word--it's late, but the spokes fall through while they're building it, so they're a pain).

What would you guys recommend as an alternative wheel? I want 32-36.

Thanks, Iowegian. I think I will do that. Wheels are such a big investment that I was hoping I could find used ones, but I just don't have the knowledge to evaluate what's available.

solveg,

I think modern 10 speed hubs falls outside most of our knowledge. Bigbossman would be the exception. I believe Roadfan is converting his Mondonico to a modern drivetrain as well.

Thanks! I should fire him a PM. We're doing this to Mondonicos from the same era....

I have these on my 10 speed modern bike:
http://www.ital-tecno.com/shopexd.asp?id=245

I wouldn't recommend them for touring like they say. I am 185lbs so I qualify as heavier and I can make the wheel flex enough to hit the derailleur cage if I am cranking up a hill in the big cog. But so far so good for me and they are really inexpensive and look good IMHO.