I see you've had some experience with this (I read your other threads) - my only question would be why is it like this in the first place? The saddle was like this since the day I took it out of the box brand new so it's not a matter of too much conditioning or getting wet of anything like that. I'm sure if I say I'm going to touch the tensioner bolt I'll be bombarded by people saying don't do it, that I'll ruin the saddle. I think I will try the lacing though. I'm glad you had that in your post about using a drill and the spacing and all.

edit: Ok. it's ready for its road test. I tightened the saddle a quarter turn and laced it. That took most of the hammock shape out though not 100%. I positioned the saddle level, and adjusted the standard Technomic to 1" above the saddle height.

Now if only it weren't snowing :(

I think it's pretty close now - 45 min in the trainer minus a few minutes to jump off and make adjustments. Now the newly tensioned and laced saddle is tilted just slightly nose up to keep me positioned on the wide flat rear section of the saddle and the stem is adjusted about 1 1/2" above the saddle height. It feels pretty good now. A longer ride out on the road will be necesary to determine if this is just right but that will have to wait for the weather to improve.

Brooks saddles can come from the factory with varying degrees of sling. Both of my black 17's were slightly hammocked, but my honey 17's were quite flat. Adjusting them for minimum perineal pressure is a matter of just dealing with the shape you are given from the start. Again, keep the web level and let the peak go where it will.

Scooting the saddle forward will keep your pelvis rotated upright so the ischial bones point more or less straight down onto the web. This has the function of also rolling your perineum back, off the peak. Looking at your first pics again, the steel frame under the rear of the saddle is pushing you forward, onto the peak, which re-curves up in front, essentially wrapping up in front of you. With the rear that high, it's inevitable that you'll ride the peak.

The statement that many riders of 17's are comfortable with the bars 2"-3" lower than the saddle may be true. But, I'll wager not as comfortable as riders who choose a different model for that posture. The 17/Flyers are for riders who prefer a semi-uprigth/upright posture, and who ride for many hours at a time. Typically, that's not done while riding a bike that is configured for racing.

I farted around with the Nitto stem on my XO-3, went through three or four iterations until I got it right.

Deluxe with about a 100mm extension
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2304/...ea5d88.jpg?v=0

Technomic with about a 60mm extension
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2112/...879ea9.jpg?v=0

Man, I wish my XO-3 was black! That is a nice looking ride! Almost antique looking? I will have to be satisfied with red I guess;),,,,BD


I bet British green with a honey saddle and wrap would be nice too.

It's actually Maroon. The swap over to the big 1.75" tires was the touch that brought it all together.

I put 1.75 Panaracer Hi Road tires on mine. Imagine the Wal Mart Kenda/Bell slicks but much higher quality with gumwalls. Very smooth! My newest favorite though is the Bontrager select Invert. Just messing around in my driveway, I can do things that a Schwinn MTB wasn't meant to do. They're BEYOND sticky:D.

From that pic, I'd swear that XO was black. Weird.

Oh well, back on the subject. Here's the deluxe Nitto on my Tesch S-22. I's a 120mm, and so long I can use it as a handle to roll the bike around. I needed the length though, given the frame is an inch under my size range. I wasn't going to pass on the bike for that reason;).,,,,BD


http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...TeschClean.jpg

Hey, glad to be of some use. FYI a punch does the job much better than a drill. The holes are far cleaner, easier to get two laces through and I suspect they will have less of a tendency to want to tear. In Canada I waited and eventually scored one at a junk store for $1, because my local hobby show wanted $15 for one. But here in Edinburgh there is a hardware store nearby selling them for £2. The drill works, but in my opinion it's definitely worth shelling out a little cash for this tool if you can find a good deal.

DObber that's hot!