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Another ebay mystery
Why would someone pay 33.52USD + $6.50 shipping (really do these need anything more than some bubble wrap and an envelope?)... for used cable clips:
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...MEWA:IT&ih=020 when they could pay. $24.99USD + $5 or less in some cases ($3) for NOS ones? http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...MEWA:IT&ih=003 http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...MEWA:IT&ih=023 there is always tons of these on ebay and all the sellers seem to have agreed to charge $25 a set... You can even see some dirt (possibly rust on the used ones and they have rusty nuts and bolts). These are definitely the exact same unlike the $150 ones from last week. Just bizzare.. I bought NOS ones for $15 over a year ago for corky.. |
if you want to be, need to be period correct, the first set in CHROME are required for mid 70's and earlier.
The second set is stainless steel, functionally the same, actually better as they don't rust, sometimes a bit different in perimeter shape but not correct for the period correct crowd, actually a bit on the low side for the Chrome ones, perhaps due to the rusted fasteners. I did not bother to look at the third set, took too long to load. |
Originally Posted by repechage
(Post 6166285)
if you want to be, need to be period correct, the first set in CHROME are required for mid 70's and earlier.
The second set is stainless steel, functionally the same, actually better as they don't rust, sometimes a bit different in perimeter shape but not correct for the period correct crowd, actually a bit on the low side for the Chrome ones, perhaps due to the rusted fasteners. I did not bother to look at the third set, took too long to load. |
3rd set were stainless steel also.
I've seen NOS versions of the chrome ones go for well over $50 for a set of 3. |
Originally Posted by lotek
(Post 6166330)
3rd set were stainless steel also.
I've seen NOS versions of the chrome ones go for well over $50 for a set of 3. oh man, it never ends does it? I guess it's okay since I am going to use DT SS spokes...:rolleyes: |
Originally Posted by cyclotoine
(Post 6166355)
Oh no! This means the ones have for corky are probably SS. I HAVE TO HAVE CHROME!:eek:
oh man, it never ends does it? I guess it's okay since I am going to use DT SS spokes...:rolleyes: I did just score some Robergel butted stainless spokes on ebay... everything is out there somewhere! |
Vintage spokes are something I know little about... but I am going to stick with DT because I have made myself sick enough with the details... I have been considering a spoke threader though so I can better reuse spokes...
As for the cable clips...I am going for the fresh look with corky since it has fresh paint so I am trying to polish as much of the patina out of the parts as possible... I will sooner use SS than rusted ones, but thank-you for the offer.... That being said the whole reason I started on investigate this is I have been buying parts to flip lately and I bought 7 NOS sets of Clips not to mention the 2 NOS sets I already have... so I'll keep one spare and use one on corky.. there is a chance that some of them are chromed... like the ones in the white bag with blue lettering (while the others are the blue background with white lettering)... I have to investigate when I get back to my current accommodation (away from home). Next week I'll be selling a bunch of stuff again including 6 or 7 sets of NOS clips, to help fund corky an the gazelle. Believe it or not corky is still costing me... I bought a polishing kit mostly for corky's parts and those repo hoods last month, and right now the debate is use the really beat up and really sanded down (so much that he flutes are almost gone at the pedal end) period record cranks, use the TA cranks I have or get another set of period record crank in better condition to strip and polish... and I still need to buy spokes to build the rear wheel.... |
Cyclotoine, since you brought it up I just received a set of 74 (i think) NR from Neal. I want to strip and polish them. Sanding them by hand is going to be a apin. Do you use a buffing wheel or drill attachment when you strip parts?
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Originally Posted by cyclotoine
(Post 6166355)
Oh no!, ... it never ends does it?:rolleyes:
I'm not going for "period correct", just cool & functional. Starting with the Merlin frame/fork, I added the Selle San Marco Rolls saddle atop a Mavic pin. Also the retro-friction (Simplex?) shifters were on-hand, as were the upwrong bars & stem. Added so far... Rear hub (Record hi flange 40 hole).................$60 Rims G40's 27"............................................$180 Paul Love Levers black/silver...........................$90 Campy drop bolt...........................................$32 Campy seat QR.............................................$29 Regina freewheel 14-32................................$125 Regina chain................................................$42 Campy 2nd gen. Rally deraileur.......................$180 Campy SR front drlr.......................................$44 Campy Record calipers...................................$90 Campy Record triple crankset.........................$200 Tires & tubes................................................$50 Grips...........................................................$20 Wires/housing...............................................$20 Spokes & alloy nipples....................................$95 Thats $1,257 added to the $200ish for the frame for about 15 bills total. Course it'll all come crashing to an end when the wife see's this post! :eek: You are not alone, Cyclotoine!;) |
Originally Posted by cmdr
(Post 6166793)
Cyclotoine, since you brought it up I just received a set of 74 (i think) NR from Neal. I want to strip and polish them. Sanding them by hand is going to be a apin. Do you use a buffing wheel or drill attachment when you strip parts?
CMDR, use easy off oven cleaner to strip the anodizing. Dr.D., I know I have invested around $1500 probably more into corky but I don't even want to attempt to add it up. |
Don't open the packages, just do the magnet test, only the fasteners will be attracted.
The Chrome versions for sure came in the glassine envelopes semi transparent, they got discolored by the lube that rust protected the fasteners. For a rider, keep the stainless. Soon Chrome will be a status symbol for very rich, the cost of toxic disposal is climbing fast, not to mention worker protection. A few painters in Southern California have lost their chromer. so it goes. |
Originally Posted by repechage
(Post 6167108)
Don't open the packages, just do the magnet test, only the fasteners will be attracted.
The Chrome versions for sure came in the glassine envelopes semi transparent, they got discolored by the lube that rust protected the fasteners. For a rider, keep the stainless. Soon Chrome will be a status symbol for very rich, the cost of toxic disposal is climbing fast, not to mention worker protection. A few painters in Southern California have lost their chromer. so it goes. |
Some kinds of stainless aren't attracted to magnets is what I think repecharge is refering to. For the record, this was more my price : http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....m=120187299710. (Stainless, but not campag)
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As always, hi.campy has some interesting clips.
http://translate.google.com/translat...language_tools |
Originally Posted by iab
(Post 6167893)
As always, hi.campy has some interesting clips.
http://translate.google.com/translat...language_tools |
Originally Posted by tspoon
(Post 6167228)
Some kinds of stainless aren't attracted to magnets is what I think repecharge is refering to.
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Well i got back to my little hoard and grabbed a fridge magnet. Oddly enough the bag that the 7 sets came in had one loose spare clip... this one spare is not attracted to the magnet. Every other set of the 7 is. And visually the chrome ones glisten and shine while the one that is apparently stainless is rather dull by comparison. WHOOPIE! Thanks for your help guys, turned out to be an even better investment than I thought.
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