T-Mar

Txs for posting. It's great when we get such marvelous pictures. It's definitely from February 1985, but I could have told you that it was 1985 model even withou the serial number, due to the unique decal scheme. We don't know what the other numbers designate but they are probably a sequential build number. I don't have pricing for the 1985 Century but based on similarly spec'd models (i.e. 4130 PG main tubes, Shimano Z202 front derailleur, Z501 rear derailleur and Sugino No.5 crankset) it was probably around $175 US. I seriously doubt it would have been over the critical $199 price barrier.

T-Mar

The picture doesn't help nuch. Can you provide close-ups of the headbadge, rear derailleur and crankset/front derailleur?

NishikiPeugeot

Previous guy painted the sprockets red for some reason. Here you go T Mar.

TheCoconutKid

I was given a 1980 Nishiki. I don't know much about the bike. The front fork was replaced by the previous owner but does not fit the bike correctly. I am trying to find the correct fork for it. Does anyone know where I could get Nishiki decals for the bike? It was repainted at some point and the decals are gone. It still has the badge though.

T-Mar

https://www.velocals.com/servlet/Categories

T-Mar

Component mix is similar to 1983. Contrasting head tubes came in 1984 and head badge is similar to 1984 design. 1985 had unique decal style. Best candidate with current information is a 1984 model. Try checking the component date codes against the info on the components page of the Vintage -Trek website. If it's a 1984 model, component codes will typically be from late 1983-early 1984.

mikeinroch

Mine is a '92 Crossroads, 4130 Chromoly main tubes and fork, Shimano 200GS, 48-38-28 biopace rings, 21 sp, 130mm rear. Not a great picture, but it's the only one I've got, the wheels shown were my winter wheels (S/S spokes, sealed bearings) but were impossible to mount tires on, so I ditched them. Back to the originals now (Weinmann 36h), rust and all (and back to 1.95 tires too, which look much better with the fenders). Saddle and seat post are not original.

Serial number is R920610284.

made4blade

Hi guys. I'm writing from all the way across the world in New Zealand and I've bought a sexy new bike frame that I'm building fixie with near full 10 pitch Shimano Dura Ace grozup set (hubs, bb, cranks, chain etc.)
I'm trying to figure out what my frame is. I understand it xmight be Nishiki.
the serial number is CB 55-. Does that mean its a Canada built model from 1972 or 1982?
it has internal routing on top of top tube seat stays that wrap right up to top of top tube, lovely bottom bracket lugs, ornate lugs on bottle cage bosses and seat stay brake post etc.
TANGE stamp on bottom bracket lug.
the number 2 on one side of the head tube.

made4blade

More pics

T-Mar

I see what appears to be an S.V. on the upper fork blades? That immediately makes me think Super Vitus but I wouldn't expect that with a Tange BB shell, unless the forks are a replacement. Anything stamped on the steerer tube? Fork and bottom thread standard? Seat post diameter? Dropout brand and model? Rear dropout spacing? Front derailleur tab? Pump peg? Dual sets of bottle bosses?

made4blade

Yes quite possibly a replacement fork. The only thing on the steerer tube is the number 2 that is shown in the last picture (upside down)
it has an English thread bottom bracket.
Seatpost is 27.4mm
the rear dropouts are tange with screw adjusters in the back.
There is no front derailleur tab or pump peg. The two sets of bottle cage bosses are diamond type similar to what I've seen on the nishiki tri-a on the Internet.
Rear drop outs are 125mm
68mm bottom bracket shell.

T-Mar

A 27.4mm post would indicate a very high end tubeset. Assuming it is Tange, like the BB shell and stays, it would be indicative of Prestige or Champion Pro. The frame seems slightly newer than 1982 via the presence of the two bottle boss ets and internal cabling. Besides the 1982 and 1983 Canadian Nishiki literature still shows things like derailleur cable routing over teh BB shell and chromed dropouts.

The fork is proably a replacement. A Tange steerer would typically have Tange stamped on it, along with an alpha-numeric date code. The bottom inside would also have six spiral ridges.

It's looks the frame is made entirely from standard Tange product and that makes me wonder if it's a contract frame manufactured by Tange. Things like dual bottle bosses and internal brake cable routing would typically put it into at least the mid-1980s. By that time most major manufacturers were embossing logos or identifiable designs on things like stays caps, lugs and fork crowns.

Of course, the fact that it's a stripped frame complicates matters, as it's always possible that some of the features were added. Regardless, in it's current state, it appears to be a mid-1980s, contract manufactured Prestige frame for a relatively small brand. Could be a local brand. Maybe there's a similar Aussie/Kiwi forum you could post this on?

milmo

I've mentioned my Nishiki Semi-Pro here before, below are some pics. I bought it, new, in 1973 or '74 in NYC for $150. It was billed as light weight at 25 lbs at the time. There's a fair amount of rust for a bike that was never left outside, but in the garage. I attribute that to New England humidity. When the barend shifters finally ended all pretense of friction and the rear derailleur's penchant for skipping the middle gear (of 5 originally, then 6 cogs) on downshifts became an outright compulsion, I turned it into a fixed gear using the original Sugino Mighty Comp crank's small 48 tooth chainring with an 18 on the rear. The only new equipment was the rear cog, everything else stayed as original including the cable housing and brake pads (it had its tires, chain and brake cable replaced over the years of course). The only mod during the conversion was getting rid of the brake levers you could actuate while riding upright on the handle bars, putting new hoods on and using 3mm spacers between the crank spyder and chainring to get the chainline exact.

I really didn't like riding the fixed setup so gave a single speed a try, again with an 18t cog, and now it's really a pleasure. It's a very simple process to convert, costs almost nothing, and makes the old technology enjoyable again.

blackbones

Bare with me here, this might be a dumb question. Above is a '73 International. Headset is 21.15mm, was this standard on the early Nishiki's and if what was the standard quill that came with it?

Lastly… Before i pop the headset out, would it be safe to assume i can put a modern 1" threaded headset in there? In other words - any info on the head tube size of a '73 International?

Thanks

RubberLegs

I think this is an 84, but perhaps an 85, Nishiki
Handcrafted by Kawamura
Make: Nishiki
Model: Riviera
Year: 1984?
Made in Japan
Color: moss green
Serial #:
Speed: 12
Frame size:21"
Frame: Tange 900 Double Butted
Frame type: Lugged
Handlebar: WIN-steel
Handlebar stem: Alloy
Brake levers: Dia Compe-alloy
Brakeset: Dia Compe size pulled-alloy
Shifters: Suntour RV
Derailleurs: Suntour RV
Crankset: Sugino VT-alloy
Pedals: MKS AR-2 Japan-alloy
Pedals Clips: N/A
Hubs: Sansin-alloy
Rims: Araya 27" X 1 1/4"-alloy
Tires: 27" X 1 1/4"
Quick releases: Front & Rear
Seatpost: SPK-alloy
Saddle: Nishiki by Vetta
Kickstand: N/A

T-Mar

Rubber Legs even without the serial number, I can tell you that it is a 1985 model.

RubberLegs

The only ID I am seeing stamped on it looks like KD06 981 on the BB Shell

T-Mar

That looks the Nishiki proprietary headset. 21.15mm should be the quill diameter. IIRc, the cups should have 30.1 flanges and the crown race inner diameter should be 27.0mm. This one of the two, common standards. However, to be sure, measure after you remove.

The overall stack height is extremely tall, so you'll either have to cut the steerer or use spacers with the replacement headset. If you cut the stem you're going to lose about 10-15mm from you maximum bar height. The replacement headset will also have a larger opening in the locknut for a 22.2mm stem but this is not an issue except for moisture entry. Simply get a smaller than 21.15mm rubber O-ring, grease it lightly, slip it over the stem and once the stem is tightened, slide the O-ring down to contact the locknut.

T-Mar

That's a 1984 serial number, but it's definitely a 1985 model. The logo was unique to that year.

bykemike 

Serial # KF0405, stamped under the BB.

T-Mar

1987 Nishiki Altron 7000, for those who do not already know.

theblackbullet

oddly enough, after checking the serial number over a year later, the correct serial number is KF2 098

is it possible nishiki had the framsets for multiple years produced all in one run, and then painted/equipped appropriately to the model year?

T-Mar

Well, there definitely was a Sante equipped Altron 7000 cataloged in 1988. It's ironic that you mistakenly posted the serial number using what would have been the correct year identifier!

It not abnormal to see a year code from the previous year but two years prior is atypical. There are several possible reasons. While I wouldn't rule out your scenario, I think it's more likely that the forecast volume of sales did not materialize and some frames were carried over and finished in the following year's livery. Another possibility is the frame got rejected for some reason and got caught up in a rework cycle. Finally, somebody could just have used the wrong stamp.

The serial number decryption is a dymnamic process. They'll always be exceptions. Some will be eventually explained and some will remain mysteries. Even in cases of brands where we have a factory supplied key, anomalies still pop up. I certainly would like to know both K and W prefixes were being used on Kawamura built product for the USA market after 1984. Regardless, the system seems to work in the vast majority of cases.

BTW, the 1988 Altron 7000 I've seen are more of a 3 colour fade; royal blue to medium blue to white.

theblackbullet

that would be a more accurate description of the paint scheme

MrMartini

Hello everyone - first post. Great database @ T-Mar. Here's what I got to add.

Nishiki Performance Sport - Road Bike
Color - Black, Red brake lines & Decals
Serial # GC901219
Frame - MR-CR 4130 - 56cm?
Tire - 27x1x1/4 (Continental Sport 1000)
Rim - 27x11/4
Shifters - Shimano Exage Motion
Gears - Exage Motion
Crank / Big Gear - Shimano Biopace

I had bought this as my first road bike a few years ago. One day I had a flat and decided to take apart the hub (yeah, this was a dumb idea in post haste) and now I cant get the hub back together correctly to fit the fork (the bolts and spacers got mixed up during rebuild)... this has been a few years ago, and I've learned enough to give it a 2nd shot.

So, I was researching parts for this bike, (stumbled upon this thread) and thought it might make for an entry level build / disassemble. I understand these parts are not standard these days but was looking for any links or references for doing a rebuild. Any tips or suggestions are welcome too. Primarily looking for a set of rims / tires to get her rolling again. Also, wanted to add my serial # to the DB, b/c I didnt recognize it using the guide on the first page. Any help is appreciated. Also, I can add pics later.

thx -

Mr. Martini