Advice needed on a modernization question.
 

When I diddn't need another project, I get three...:D

My root question here is really too modern for C&V, but too retro for the Roadies, besides, it's you guys I trust!

On top of Neal's former Super Course, which is about to be converted to Campag Derailleurs. Phase two on the Bottecchia, (aka, white cotton bar tape and $30 worth of Campag Valentino from e-bay and Cyclotine) And finishing up the Motobecane, which I'm happy to say is allmost done, save for some issues with it's factory spindle and the Stronglight crank I wanted to use on it. I went and spent some of my tax return on two more steel frames from forum members, (Thanks gents!) Both of those frames are British, neither a Raleigh, both are 80's Lugged and Reynolds. Both will be built 1980's era-correct. and thats the last you will hear about them until they show up in the before and after. :rolleyes:

I swear, I can stop any time I want.....

On to project three, I was, for awhile thinking about buying a brand new modern bike, or a more modern used frameset and building something. Well, a last second, never thought I would win it with such a low bid, bid, has made me the owner. (When it gets here) of a ca, 1989, made in the USA Alloy Cannondale frameset. I have a plan, and as it happens I have an '89 era Suntour group that will work perfectly on it.

Now, to make a short story really long, my question.

My one worry is the Alloy fork, my other Cannondale (Way too big) had a steel fork, and it had a decent ride.
I'm thinking I would like to try a Carbon fork on this one. but, (and I think the parts are available either way) Do I go threaded or threadless?? I'd want a Alloy steer tube of course. I can find the stem and bars whichever way it goes easily enough.

I am going to attempt to keep this bike as light as possible. No fenders, racks, or anything like that. Are there advantages to one over the other??

It's a 1" headtube.

So, Threadless ...
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...20Road%20Forks

Or, Threaded..??
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...20Road%20Forks

Threadless is suppose to be lighter, I've never took the time to determine if this is true or not. With threadless, it is easy to change the stem to get different angles and lengths, unless you have a threaded stem with a pop top. People seem to like the ease of adjustment of the threadless better.

Threaded is better looking.

hard call, really a personal choice... personally I'd go for threadless for better stem options (you might have to use a shim with a 1 1/8" stem)... I assume this bike is for riding so go with the easier to use threadless stem, You can get it higher and have removable face plate etc...

Are you planning on riding centuries with it? I'd stick with the alloy fork unless you plan to do lots of long distance riding. I used to take mine on 20-30 mile rides, and it wasn't too punishing. Definitely more jittery and stiffer than any steel fork I've ever ridden, but not terrible. Ride 25s at a comfortable pressure. I tried 28s, but they wouldn't clear the fork at the crown.

One thing's for sure, that frame can accelerate and it climbs hills like a goat!

Lou,
+1 on that, but old C-Dales won't win any beauty contests anyhow. "purposeful " might be as far as I'd go. :D

Cyclotine,
It's definitely for riding, I try to ride everything I have with wheels. But the C-dale has a definite purpose.

JYB,
I'm really aiming for something lighter for centuries, I can't imagine that alloy fork is going to be comfortable for the long haul. I usually don't worry about weight all that much, but If I'm going to keep up with other people I need all the help I can get, hence the carbon fork. :D

Sure you can stop anytime just like the rest of us!

I would go threadless if it were me. Threadless allows you to easily change out the stem/play with spacers to get your desired bar height and reach dialed in. Plus, if you want the bars up higher it is much easier with threadless than threaded. If you want the bars higher threaded you basically have to pony up the dough for a Technomic or dirt drop stem. Threadless will also be stiffer and lighter as well.

That and I have a buddy in Michigan who usually has a pile of stems..:D

A number of them even say Cannondale on them!

While I love my cannondale, a CAAD9, I have to say that your frame might not be best suited for centuries. Some of those early cannondales were known for their incredible stiffness leading to a really bone jarring ride. A lot of this is over the top roadie speak from people saying the old is bad, but it might have some validity to it. I'm not sure that the stiffness or the 'crack n' fail' issue applies to your frame.

I think a carbon fork would really help soak up the road vibrations on this one.

I can't wait to see the build!

Thats exactly why I was thinking on the carbon fork. This one is from the insanely harsh ride era, but I will put up with that for all I'll be riding it. I'm pretty well set with relaxed, comfortable steel frames. So the C-dale is being built to a very specific purpose. 95% of the time I'll still be on steel. :D

Careful with those fully-threaded steer tubes.

As much as I dislike threadless, you might (I stress, MIGHT) be in for a nasty surprise when you tighten your stem. Had a Hawley USA-supplied (don't know the actual brand of the fork) steel fork split on me once due to the full-length threading and washer channel:

http://www.jaysmarine.com/Fork_disaster_1.jpg

Didn't even realized it split before I tightened it too much, and the headset started locking up.

If you do go for threadless, use a cheap, disposable stem to check the fork's strength when installing it first - I ruined a mint Cinelli 120mm 1E in the process above.

-Kurt

Another vote for threadless. Not really any harder to install and since you're going CF anyways you might as well take advantage of the stem availability that threadless offers.

Any stem you buy should have a shim so it'll work on a 1" fork. If not many of us probably have a shim or 2 lying around (if we also own a modern bike). I know I do.

I rode a C'dale starting in '86 and never thought the ride super harsh but I got back into riding with a college club after I decided to stop playing football and was a "bit" bigger than the average cyclist. Also my SR800 had steel forks.

:beer:

+1 On threadless... It is much easier to find $200+ stems for threadless.

It also opens your options to 31.8mm bar clamps so you can get the $400 handlebar you've been waiting for an excuse to buy. :)

The stiffness of the 1989 frame would depend on model. I believe that they ran the breadth from Touring to Criterium geometries in 1989. MY former Cannondale Touring was a pretty smooth ride, and I believe it was a 1989... It did have a steel fork though.

Guys,

Thanks for all the advice, I'm pretty sure now that I'm going threadless.. No $400 Bars though L.D. :D

Wes, Please keep us informed as to how this works out. As good fortune would have it, I just picked up a '91 Cannondale SR400 last saturday. Its all alloy and I'm asking myself the same questions about the fork. I found this thread VERY interesting. Thanks.

Well it's update time for the Cannondale build.

This is as close to a New Old Stock '89 Cannondale 3.0 as I'm ever going to come. By the look of it, and the auction. this was stripped for parts in '89 or '90. a few tiny scratches from sitting around for almost two decades, but nothing major.

In front of my fridge.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...f/100_0049.jpg

Here is where I need help, at some point someone snatched the shifter bosses.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...f/100_0053.jpg

I don't know what I'm looking for, but I can't do much else until I solve this.