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Compact Crank on 1983 Benotto?
I'm interested in running compact Centaur cranks on my Benotto. Will I run into any problems with clearance for the front derailleur? I can post some pics and measurements of the braze on if that would help.
Thanks! |
square taper or outboard bearing?
If anything compacts are smaller and don't run into any sort of issues with clearance as far as I know. If your FD is the brazed on variety, how high is it set up currently? I've heard of some frames running into a minor problem where they can't get the FD low enough because of the swap. |
Outboard, and I've never built the bike up yet, it's new to me.
By clearance, I meant getting the FD low enough for the 34 tooth. |
Much depends on how low you can set your front derailleur and on the tooth drop for which it was designed. Newer road cages are generally optimized for 53-39, but most will work quite nicely with 50-36, and if you can lower the mechanism far enough, 48-34. A 16-tooth or larger drop may cause rough shifting, chain drop, chain snag, and other nasty issues, unless one shifts very carefully at all times. (I have run 48-40-24 on my mountain bike in years past, and a successful 24-to-40 upshift does require "judgment, brains, and maturity.")
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So, ultimately, my goal is to take a little off the low end with this bike.
I have trouble pushing anything harder than say, 53- 16 or so. The only time I ever use anything harder than that is if I'm pushing hard downhill. Is that normal? I suppose I could run compact cranks with 50-36 or 39, instead of the standard compact 34 to make shifting a little smoother. Is that an option? |
My new-ish FSA compact 50-34 has no troubles with a non-compact Ultegra FD. There are compact specific front derailleurs if needed.
53-16 on the flats is fine; that's 26mph at 100rpm. |
Originally Posted by bbattle
(Post 6482294)
53-16 on the flats is fine; that's 26mph at 100rpm.
I never ride with a computer so I never know how fast I'm actually going. Maybe I'm doing alright then! |
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