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Heads or nuts.....
.....on the drive side when installing clamp on bits. It doesn't really matter, but I'm sure there's a correct way.
You know you're getting old when you have to move the shifters on your city bike from the downtube to the bars after narrowly missing a parked car. :o |
heads on the drive side. I dunno why I do this, didn't even know I did until you asked the question, and I went and looked.
Hmmm.... just feels right, I suppose. could it have something to do with the quick release orientation? |
I always do bolt heads on the drive side, too. It does just feel right.
Neal |
Originally Posted by luker
(Post 6499345)
could it have something to do with the quick release orientation?
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Hmm, I always do the nuts on the drive side I think, cause thats how I put it in the stand...
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All bolt heads on the drive side.
Rim labels read from the drive side. Hubs script read from the rear of the bike (i.e. sitting on the saddle). Handle bar tape is wrapped starting from the bar end to the bar middle so that the exposed edges are "downhill". Brake cable/housing routes to the rear of the handlebars (never in front). QR levers on the non-drive side because Tullio said so fifty years ago. And valve stems are boxed by the spokes. Why? Well, I just don't know.
Originally Posted by Dirtdrop
(Post 6499081)
.....on the drive side when installing clamp on bits. It doesn't really matter, but I'm sure there's a correct way.
You know you're getting old when you have to move the shifters on your city bike from the downtube to the bars after narrowly missing a parked car. :o |
cause if you're right-handed, that's the side you'd most likely use the "active" tool (screwdriver) while the left would hold the "passive" tool (wrench)...also why most seat-pin bolts have the "trapped" side on the left: most of us are right-handed and that's the tool hand.
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Originally Posted by grifone37
(Post 6499594)
Why? Well, I just don't know.
And QR levers go on the left because the rear would foul the derailleur otherwise. Doesn't make a lick of difference on the front, but it looks better. |
I would say bolt heads on the drive side because that is the preferred side for pictures and the bolt heads look better than the nuts. I never gave it much tought before, but I do try to have them all the same. If there is a clamp that has a captured nut that only works one way, then I use that as the basis for the rest.
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Bolt heads to the drive side it is. I've been doing it right.
Thanks everyone! |
Originally Posted by grifone37
(Post 6499594)
Rim labels read from the drive side.
Hubs script read from the rear of the bike (i.e. sitting on the saddle). |
Oh, by the way, this thread is an example of vintage OCP.
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Originally Posted by JunkYardBike
(Post 6500796)
Oh, by the way, this thread is an example of vintage OCP.
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Typically the bolt head faces out. If the screw threads face out, they are more likely to snag something.
That's just "general" mechanical practice. |
Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun
(Post 6502038)
Typically the bolt head faces out. If the screw threads face out, they are more likely to snag something.
That's just "general" mechanical practice. And I work on motorcycles a lot: sometimes you have a stud with a nut, sometimes you have a bolt threading into a subsection, sometimes you have a bolt and nut with the nut on the inside or outside, depending on what its holding on and how it gets serviced. In my experience, "general mechanical practice" taught me it varies on application. |
Originally Posted by Dirtdrop
(Post 6501084)
Absolutely.
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Originally Posted by Charles Wahl
(Post 6499540)
But . . . the QR nuts are on the drive side!
We're proud of that like a hot rod guy with a roots supercharger, though, right? |
Oh, and a long time ago, I was told that everyone in the peleton ran the skewers on the non-drive side, so that you didn't have two riders hooking quick releases in the pack. that would really be sucksville. no way that would end well.
So, I run 'em like I was told. |
Originally Posted by dbakl
(Post 6502436)
Great advice. So, which side is "out" on a two-sided bicycle?
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Just so we're all on the same page. Tire labels should be drive side and centered over the valve.
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Originally Posted by King of Kadence
(Post 6506557)
Just so we're all on the same page. Tire labels should be drive side and centered over the valve.
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First and foremost (on clinchers) it looks proper, and when repairing flats it's easy to find the corresponding shard in the tire in relation to the hole in the tube.
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Originally Posted by grifone37
(Post 6499594)
All bolt heads on the drive side.
Rim labels read from the drive side. Hubs script read from the rear of the bike (i.e. sitting on the saddle). Handle bar tape is wrapped starting from the bar end to the bar middle so that the exposed edges are "downhill". Brake cable/housing routes to the rear of the handlebars (never in front). QR levers on the non-drive side because Tullio said so fifty years ago. And valve stems are boxed by the spokes. Why? Well, I just don't know. |
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