Bike Project Question
 

I've changed to a new bike for the summer; but I don't feel like letting go of last summers bike, a Panasonic Sport 1000. I've grown attached, not sure why, but I'm thinking of keeping it. Anyhow, its main issue is reach. It's too long--I ride holding onto the flat parts of the bars, wishing for it to be even closer! Otherwise, it rode fine, albeit every bearing was worn out and out of true rims.

I've been keeping an eye out for a good English 3 speed; I found a women's last year but it's too small. So... In my mind I'm thinking of combining the two for fun. I don't remember the spoke count on the SA hub (it's a '69), but for now I'd leave it on the old rim to just set things up. I think the 40T chainring and 19T cog will work ok, at least for now. I'm not sure what brake levers I'd want to use, but I've seen posts about that before on here, so I'd probably go use the search function for that.

But what about the reach? I'm thinking of buying a threaded to threadless stem convertor, then using a more modern stem, then using a set of North End bars (alloy of more recent vintage). I figure, it's easier to swap stems with the newer style. But would this wind up potentially with the handlebars being too far away for comfort?

Unless you already have a minimum-reach stem, just substitute a new one with shorter reach.

You probably won't be able to put a (26") 3-speed wheel in your Panasonic, which is presumably designed for 27" wheels.

For the reach, I would look for a 60 mm stem. They were used mostly on smaller or women's frames. I have a shorter reach and changing the stem made a big difference in the comfort level. The larger sized bikes usually had a 100 or 110 mm stem.
A lot of the later 3 speeds use a 36 hole hub, so you could relace your 27 inch rims to the 3 speed hub. Your brakes would not reach a 26 inch rim. 40x19 would be a good choice for gearing. That would give you a 42, 56, 75 inch range. I put together a Kabuki last year, only with 39x18 and a shimano hub.

I probably would go 700c. I don't think I have any good 27" rims, so if I have to relace (which I've never done before), I probably would go 700 for tire selection.

As for just putting the wheel on there, that was to just a) figure out what was required in terms of spacers on the hub, b) getting chainline figured out, and c) just ride-able enough to determine if the reach was ok. I really don't want to do too much work in case it's simply a poor combination.

I'll look and see what is out there for short reach stems. I don't understand the reasons behind it, but I do recall reading that short stems make for poor handling, though. Although, that's probably moot with a very different set of handlebars... I'll have to start looking around for these handlebar bits then.

Shawn, I have a set of 700c rims you could have for this project and possibly a shorter reach stem. Let's talk over the weekend.

Maybe this is obvious, but you can also reduce the reach by moving the saddle forward.

Sure PB! I should be around. Actually, with the wife headed out on Sunday, I have a good chunk of time--and I need a good reason to not spend it at work. :)

Moving the saddle forward can introduce some other problems with your pelvic region, since you are changing the reletive angle of your hips to the pedals.

Changing to a shorter stem does change the weight distribution toward the rear slightly, and it also gives you slightly less leverage to turn the bars. I have three bikes set up that way and I have never had a problem. I will take the twitchier handling over the pain in the back from the too long stem. The old thumb rule was if you couldn't see your hub because it was blocked by the handlebar, you were good for stem length.