New/Old - A mechanical question of riding vs. admiring
 

First off, not sure if this belongs in C&V or Mechanics...so here it is...

Its time to think about getting more use out of the 501SL frame I’ve got sitting in the garage. It’s a mid-late 1980’s frame with 6-speed Shimano 600 components all over it.

What I’d like to end up with is:
A refinished frame
8 or 9 speeds
Integrated shifting
Possible compact double front for more options on using it as a commuter and/or Sunday rider

OK, time for some specific questions:

Is powder coating or painting the way to go for a durable, cost-effective surface? I’m only going to replace the 501SL decals, and they can go on after the refinish.

Is running a 130mm spacing group in a 126mm steel frame going to cause troubles with the frame (i.e. stress points, cracking or other issues I haven’t thought about)? Everything that I’d like to put on it is 130mm spacing. Is cold-setting (from the bible according to Sheldon) a worthy exercise to avoid any potential problems? Aside from the minor annoyance of having to pry the ends apart each time you reinsert the wheel, I can’t find any real evidence to HAVE to do this.

I’d prefer going Italian on the group; the bike just seems to be that kind of ride. Is Campy Mirage really that far down the totem pole that I should discount it as a long-term, light usage group? From what I can tell it would definitely sit above Sora in the Shimano vs. Campy scheme, and closer to Tiagra than some care to admit. Given that Mirage 2007 9-speed is on sale at PBK for $400 delivered, you can perhaps see why it’s an appetising option. Even Veloce 10 speed at $600 all told is good value I reckon.

I have no access to anything Italian (except my LBS owners new Ridley Damocles with Record) to compare groups for feel or build quality. I believe the Mirage levers are resin with an aluminium core piece, and the derailleur bodies are stamped, not cast. Is this correct? How does this affect lever feel in particular?

This also leads me to (yet more) expense: wheels. Though a nice set of used Campy suitable wheels shouldn’t run to more than $180. If I keep adding money to the project at this rate I’m heading for divorce country…

Jim

Get the frame cold-set to 130 spacing before getting it painted.
Powder-coating is very durable and cost-effective, but won't quite have the depth or finish quality of a wet paint job.
The more contemporary used bikes I come across, the more I like Shimano over Campy for their cheaper components. They just work really well, and are easy/cheap to get replacement parts for.

I think cold setting is the way to go also. It is very easy to do. The reason why I say this is because when I just put a 130mm wheel into a 126mm frame, only one stay would actually move, so my wheel was not aligned with the frame. This was not very noticeable but it will cause faster tire wear. I finally decided to cold set it, now everything is aligned.

As for Shimano vs Campy, well that is almost a religious debate. Some will say to go for Campy because you can get parts to fix it. Like Campy's brifters are repairable whereas Shimano's are not. But then Shimano people will say that you won't need to repair Shimano. Some people say Campy is smoother but Shimano is more reliable.

Since this bike will be for commuting and Sunday rides and not competition, I think any of the Campy or Shimano stuff will be good. The higher end stuff might be lighter and shift a bit faster, but will that really matter on a commuter or Sunday rider? Remember Sheldon's (pbuh) favorite brifter was the Sora. He thought it was good enough to use.

My opinions (from someone who's run a couple of 80's frames with 130 rear wheels): try the wheel in the frame before trying to cold set. You may be surprised how easily it slips in without messing with the spacing. I'm currently running a 86 Serotta with a campy 10sp group, and have run my 83 Gazelle with a Ultegra rear hub. Neither were a difficult fit as-is.

As far as durability, powder is probably the best. They can do some interesting things with powder now, not sure what your goals for the frame are. I would suggest taking the frame to someone who's worked with bike frames before and knows what sort of prep to do and the challenges of producing a quality finish on round tubes.

I love my Campagnolo Centaur group, never seen nor handled the Mirage gear though. I'd check the prices on ProBikeKit.com for a mix of Centaur (cranks, cassette at least) and Veloce. Probably the best price per performance factor in campy's line.

I'm running a 1984 Trek 760 that I had spread by the LBS to 130mm spacing, with Mirage 9 speed shifters and hubs. The jury is still out on comparative quality and durability. I feel slower and pedaling seems harder than I expected, though there are other considerations I need to sort through (I'm still tinkering with the set-up, and am regaining my legs after spending the entire winter off bicycles).

I'd say it's worth a go. If you find it isn't for you, you will be able to recoup almost everything you put into it.

As noted above, cold setting has advantages. A couple others not already noted: a knowledgable LBS (if you can still find one with a jig) can check/adjust the alignment. Also, when spreading the rear triangle, even if by hand, the derailleur hanger will be pushed out of parallel with the cogset; the LBS should be able to realign the hanger after cold setting.

I've never powder coated a frame, but in researching it I've read that a clear coat over the powder coat will improve the durability.

Another completely unsolicited opinion: why not just keep your Zini as is and use your planned budget on a modern bike, or a classic that's already been customized with modern components? True, it's not as fun as building your own, but in the long run it may be less expensive and you may find something slightly more upscale than your planned build (both frame and components).

I have found a factory here in Australia that will cold set and powdercoat for a reasonable price. For the Aussies interested they're called Grip Sport, in Victoria. I'll try the 130 hub in it and see if I really need to do it. It does seem quite loose on the 126mm hub when you undo the QR, so it may be easier than I though in that regard.

Thanks for the feedback on the relative qualities of the groupsets. I had read somewhere that the Centaur stuff was best for price v quality v weight, but dont know if my budget reaches that level just now.

JunkYard: I already have a modern bike. Actually I have a couple, truth be told. I've got a Giant OCR1 as my main roadie which I really enjoy, and an Avanti Blade Pro flat bar which I commute on sometimes. I'm just on a bit of a build kick with this one. I plead the Edmund Hilary/Everest excuse..."because its there".

Jim