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next project
Ok I'm already thinking about my next project. I want a bike to donate to our Church auction next Spring so I have a lot of time to get this one together and want to really put a lot of features that will appeal to most everyone so I think I might try one of those 8 speed Shimano Nexus hubs. I'm thinking of using a Trek 520 or something along those lines with 700X 28c tires any other suggestions on frame selection that won't break the bank are welcome. I will probably use the elkhide barwrape from Velo Orange. Other than that I think this bike should be more of a MUP around town grocery getter/ cruiser. I know thats asking a lot but. Suggestions? I know you all will have a them so help me out.
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SB,
I have a 24" Super Sport frameset (not Sporty) I'll donate for the effort. It will need 27" rims, however, which I'll also throw in. I like the multi-speed hub idea. Have you priced SRAM hubs? Are you thinking of a quick, single color powder coating? I'm feeling your spirit of generosity! |
PB: Thanks for the offer I will keep it on my list of possibles. I just did check out A.E. Bike and the Srams and Shimanos aren't as pricey as long as you go with the non coaster brake variety. I wonder the reliability of each brand, is there a general feeling as to which one is the more realiable I can do the two step powder coat like I had done on the mixte for less than a hundred bucks so I think I'll probably go for that. How large is a 24 inch frame in metric sizes about a 56cm?
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I'm working on a similar project. I'm using a '74 Raleigh Competition frame with an unknown but nice replacement fork.
You can order a wheelset with a red band Shimano 8 speed, DT Competition spokes and polished Sun CR-18 rims from the QBP catalog from most any bike shop. I don't like the full length shift housing held with zip ties setup I've seen, so I'm going to use a Sturmey Archer fulcrum clip on the downtube and bare cable under the bottom bracket to a clip on the chainstay and then housing to the hub. I'm going to try to make a Shimano shifter work by using a Shiftmate because I don't like the plastic grip shifter. I think it was Neal Lerner that posted that he had some success with that setup. It's going to have Cinelli Priest bars, Soma inverse levers, a Record crank with a Super Record ring and rubber block pedals so I can ride it barefoot at the beach. |
Originally Posted by Metrically Challanged String Breaker!
How large is a 24 inch frame in metric sizes about a 56cm?
(Just one little way to figure the conversion!) |
Nitpick: actually, 24" is just over 61 cm (2.54 is the conversion factor)
I think that the 8-speed hubs have a fairly wide OLD, so some frame spreading would be necessary. |
Originally Posted by Charles Wahl
(Post 6839505)
Nitpick: actually, 24" is just over 61 cm (2.54 is the conversion factor)
I think that the 8-speed hubs have a fairly wide OLD, so some frame spreading would be necessary. |
Cold setting a frame is a very simple operation if you follow Sheldon Brown's instructions to the letter. All you need is a 2X4, a piece of string and a ruler. I lay the frame on an old rug so it doesn't get scratced on the garage floor. I've cold set all of my frames to some extent, either because I want to use a later hub or just because I want to be able to slide the wheel in or out just by flipping the qr, the way it's supposed to work.
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Originally Posted by Dirtdrop
(Post 6839751)
Cold setting a frame is a very simple operation if you follow Sheldon Brown's instructions to the letter. All you need is a 2X4, a piece of string and a ruler. I lay the frame on an old rug so it doesn't get scratced on the garage floor. I've cold set all of my frames to some extent, either because I want to use a later hub or just because I want to be able to slide the wheel in or out just by flipping the qr, the way it's supposed to work.
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I converted a Schwinn World Voyageur to run a Nexus 8 hub. I would suggest that since you will be powder coating the bike and brand is not critical, using a mid 80's Japanese road bike frame. Steel, lugs, inexpensive and all standard sizes and threadings. Also the rear will already be spaced at 126mm. The OLD of the Nexus 8 with no coaster brake is 132mm. That distance is not to difficult to cover via cold setting.
Also there is a good desription of how to cold set on vintagetrek.com. Skip desribes using a threaded rod and some nuts and washers to spread the rear triangle. That is how I did my bike. It was easy and I could take my time. I have lots of parts I would be willing to donate so let me know if you need anything along the way. |
Here are a couple of pics as it was sold on ebay.:( I am moving and had to pare down the fleet. Plus it was always a bet small for me.
[IMG]http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k292/bylar13/013.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k292/bylar13/022.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k292/bylar13/019.jpg[/IMG] |
I tried the threaded rod method of coldsetting once and it was a disaster! There's no reasen to believe that the stays will bend equally, especially when only the drive side is crimped. I ended up using Sheldon Brown's method to realign the frame.
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Originally Posted by fender1
(Post 6841420)
Here are a couple of pics as it was sold on ebay.:( I am moving and had to pare down the fleet. Plus it was always a bet small for me.
[IMG]http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k292/bylar13/013.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k292/bylar13/022.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k292/bylar13/019.jpg[/IMG] |
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