Hate it or Love it
 

Hey what's up everyone. I had recently just got into fixies and picked up a vintage Raleigh bike frame. Here are a couple of pictures after I had taken off all the unnecessary parts for rebuild.

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I'm planning on getting it repainted and up and running before july 4th weekend so any tips or suggestions will help. Thanks for viewing.

Looks like the paint is pretty good already.

Yep, I'd leave the paint alone. If it has nicks, touch it up. That paint scheme gives the bike context in its era; powdercoat makes it just another generic fixie. Keep it as is for your conversion, and years from now, if you decide you want it geared, you can always put it back, and you've got a classic. "Genericize" it now, and it will never be anything other than a generic bike frame.

Hey thanks for the comments guys. I've actually thought about keeping the original paint scheme since everyone I've spoken to and have seen the bike in person/pictures have pretty much suggested the same thing as BlueOrder. Only thing is, for me, there are lots of rusts and paint chips here and there. I guess I wouldn't mind keeping the color only if everything was in "like-new" condition. I try to be a perfectionist and I just want it looking like no other. Any suggestions with clean-up and preserving the original frame?

Here are the other pics btw:

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Patrick

Here's what I mean with paint chips and rust all over the bike:

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I think the only way to get rid of the rust and nicks is to "genericize" it. Although, I could be wrong...

Apply some naval jelly to the rusty scratches; that'll stop the rust. A Good coat of wax will make it nice and shiny.

Or, lightly sand the rusty spots; fold some sandpaper and use the crease to sand just the rust off. Clean the area thoroughly. Get some Testor's model airplane paints in the little glass jars. You may have to blend a couple to get the right color but it works pretty well. Test on a scrap piece of metal. Spray on some clearcoat. Be sure to get a compatible clearcoat. Again, test on the scrap piece of metal, not the bike. Or, just apply some good carnauba car wax.

If you do decide to repaint it, don't powdercoat. Powdercoat is the devil to remove and if you ever want to convert the bike or heaven forbid, sell it, you'll be much better off with a regular paint job.

That's a decent frame with Reynolds 531 tubing and pantographs and lugs.

Do a search on oxalic acid. Many of us have used it and it will remove all rust, external and internal. Very easy to do.

here's a camera pic of my fixed raleigh. Mine had some surface rust on the chrome parts of the fork but it all came off using a brillo pad. I didn't need to go as far as sanding with sandpaper. I don't know if it'll work on your non-chrome parts however. I was considering painting too but I'm glad I didn't...I like the vintage look of it. I'm thinking of maybe throwing on some chrome fenders.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l.../IMAGE_026.jpg

I have a few suggestions:
1) touch up and preserve the original paint;
2) do not do anything irreversible to the frame, such as amputating the derailleur tab;
3) save all of your original parts for potential resale;
4) install at least a front brake, and preferably a rear brake, as well.

Hey good stuff guys. I appreciate the suggestions. I'll definitely look into it. I just hope some of the products will cost less than getting the whole paint job. BTW, roughly, does anyone know how much paint job costs and which hardware stores carry the waxes, clear coats, acids to preserve the bike? I'll do more research on it.

What's the deal with getting it powder coated and getting a paint job? Sorry, I'm so new to the whole Idea.

A one color with clear coat by someone that knows what they're doing costs about $300 - $350. Powdercoating would look good, and be cheaper.

That being said, I'd try to save the original paint if I could.

Hey, that could be a nice bike. Personally, I'd clean up all the original components and put them back on it. But then I don't like fixies. But you should do what will make you happy. As for rust, that headset will clean up with a can of Nev'r Dull (any auto parts store) and your fingernail or a plastic knife. Thin rust like that on chrome is almost always fixable. Contrary to what you read elsewhere, don't take steel wool to chrome or aluminum parts. You don't need it and it does more damage than good. Use some Nev'r Dull on the rust, rub it well, then use your fingernail or the plastic knife to scrape it abck. Nev'r Dull will make aluminum shine like a mirror. For somewhat pitted non-anodized, aluminum bits, 1500 or 1000 grit wet sand paper followed by... Nev'r Dull, will shine up just about anything. Be very careful with the sand paper on detailed edges.

Karl

I've had good luck with nail polish for touch up. Go to a beauty supply with a good selection; you'll probably find something pretty close. Whatever you use, if you're going to miss a bit on the color it's better to be lighter that the original rather than darker.

If it was me....

1) my first choice would be to do it right-- send it off for a faithful reproduction repaint and reproduction decals. Get the frame stripped, rust removed properly, and properly primed and painted. AND apply framesaver on the inside of the frame.

2) My second choice would be to go to an auto paint & body shop, and get the paint matched. They'll do it for about $40. Two colors like yours would probably be $80, but it looks like you only have nicks on the bue, so it would probably only be $40 for the blue. I'd get some for brush on application, and see if they could put some in a rattle can for me.

I'd also take proper photos of the decals, noting the dimensions and proper position. I'd then commission a new set of reproduction decals.

Meanwhile, I'd apply framesaver on the inside of the frame. Then I'd thoroughly clean the framesaver off the outside of the frame (it gets messy), as part of the prep for painting. I'd remove all rust from the frame, prep the frame properly, prime the bare metal, and do a rattle can job on the large area on the chainstay-- I'd probably just paint the entire chainstay, and blend the touch-up color with the original where the stay meets the dropout and the bottom bracket.

[EDIT: I just took another look at the chainstay, and realize now that I was looking at a chainstay protector, and not damaged paint. So it may be that all you need to do is touch-up work, which could probably mostly be done after assembly (the only exception being if there's a nick you can't reach after assembly). And of course, do the framesaver before assembly.]

Then I'd touch up any spots that I can't reach once the bike is assembled. I'd fill in the nicks with the brush-on paint, let the paint dry for a few days, then fill, let dry a few days, repeat, until the paint has filled the nick. Then I'd sand it level with the surrounding good paint, taking care to blend in the touch-up with the surrounding paint. Buff it out, and it's done.

Then I'd assemble the bike. Once it's assembled, I could take my time replacing damaged decals and touching up the remaining nicks.

3) My third choice would be powdercoat. It's inexpensive, and tougher than paint. The downside is it will take away the unique paint scheme that this bike has. I think powdercoat has its uses, and plan to powdercoat some beaters as well as some touring bikes. But this particular bike is one I would paint, not powdercoat.



And thinking about it, I think my second choice, while more labor-intensive than my first choice, would probably be the best approach, because it preserves the originality of the bike.

If you're serious about getting the bike on the road by July 4, powdercoat may be the fastest. Or maybe touch-up is the fastest, if the powdercoater cant turn it around that fast. A complete re-spray will be the slowest method, however. Personally, I would place the integrity of the bike above getting it on the road by July 4th, but that's just my personal choice. You may have reasons you want it on the road that fast. Still, doing the touch-up approach might get you there, especially if the only thing you have to do before assembly is framesaver and rattlecan the chainstay (and save touching up all the nicks and new decals for after the bike is assembled and on the road-- then you can do it at your leisure.). If I had to get it on the road ASAP, and wanted to preserve the integrity of the bike, this is the approach I would take.

And to second an earlier comment, don't cut anything off the frame, and save all your original parts (if you have them) for the future. You (or somebody else down the line) may appreciate that, even if you don't appreciate it all that much today.

Good luck!

That's a beautiful frame, largely due to the paint scheme (IMO). If you lived closer, I have an old Centurion about the same size that would be great for what you want to do. It's absolutely hideous, so a different paint job wouldn't be a loss of any kind. :lol:

Do the right thing keep the origional paint =). The above suggestions sum up my thoughts about the bike. It looks gorgeos will be a very classy and unique fixie if you keep the 2 tone color scheme. that head badgeis awesome.

Sweet Jesus. Thanks for the input guys. I'm going to run to the store right now and see what I could come across. You guys just talked me into keeping the original color scheme and preserving it. One more thing that I can't seem to find is the type of bike it is. I've looked at raleigh catalogs, possibly under 1983 grand prix models and it just doesn't seem to match. The patent on the bottom says this:

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"7AN1409 M"

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"Racing Geometry 12 speed 49-107"

Meaning?! :wtf:

Also, I was wondering if whether or not I should "sand-off" or "shave-off" (however that might work) the little "nipple-like" bungs that are sticking out. I'd hate to get injured by it in the future. :roflmao2:

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Forgive my bad snapshots, for I am only using my iPHONE.

you can't shave off the shifter bosses, how you gonna put 'em back on when/if you want to sell it? I realize it's not gonna look clean. I think it is ironical to put the shift levers on to cover the bosses, with no cables attached. You know, for joke?

Seriously, hacking off all the braze stuff is what drives these guys apoplectic when it comes to fixie conversions.

Sorry to disagree with the purists. I love Raleighs, but anything from their "seafoam and lilac" era with that much rust is crying, begging to be powdercoated.

I do wonder why folks who want a fixie buy a frame that has braze-ons, though. Someone should make a beautiful little anodized alloy thing that covers the DT shifter bosses elegantly. they could be engraved with "This, too" on the left, and "will pass" on the right.

Thanks for you opinion muccapazza. What should I do? I'd rather not leave it hangin' around for no reason. Plus, it'll shave off a couple of pounds or so off the bike as i'm riding. Any suggestions?

As for resale in the later future, if I do, I'm sure all the parts I get will make up for "the shaving off the shifter bosses" since I plan on spending more than the usual. I want the high end stuff! :thumb:

If you want the "high end stuff" why save change on a poor defenseless classic? Why not get a NJS frame or have one handmade by your local framebuilder? Why don't you just go buy a Motobecane Messenger or a Kilo TT, part it out and buy all the high end stuff you want (Which is what? A Sugino 75 craptastic crankset and an Aerospoke front wheel with a Nitto Jag stem and gold risers with Ouri grips? Don't forget the white tires and Turbo saddle!) Then you'll have a new "track" frame and all your fancy parts. It would probably cost less anyways..........

Good point kpug. But suggesting to buy a beautifully finished fixed gear isn't really going to help me here. Even though it might save me time and money, It's still wouldn't be the same as having it put together by your own hands. It's supposed to be a project/hobby with whatever "fancy parts" I so desire.

Aside from already having a fairly decent classic frame, that was given to me for free BTW, I'm fortunate enough to have such a frame with the choice of keeping it original, or giving it a new look. I'm sure you know that this frame, with its high potential of becoming even something better, 'is/will be' just as good as any other frame for a customized fixie.

Thanks for you opinion.

That Raleigh is fairly decent, but not by any means classic. It isn't even an English Raleigh, and at least a few steps down the ladder.

Have fun with your project! :)

OK.........First I'd like to apologize for being snarky.

I do however think you mis-understood what I wrote in my previous response. The suggestion of buying a Kilo or the like specifically......... Lets say you buy said Kilo. Then you part it out to a point. Then you rattlecan, powdercoat, decoupage with comic book strips and clear it to your hearts content. You pick up your replacement parts with the cash +or- some $ from parting it out and voilà! Built and recolored by your own hands. Not to mention it will have ZERO brazeons, proper dropouts for a fixed and the flicky handling that we all love and enjoy so much on the street!
As far as the "just as good" for a fixie comment. What's the definition of good? Road frames typically have lower bottom brackets then track bikes. That pretty much forces you to:
A. Ride slow and cautiously in turns for fear of pedal strike (Been there and done that. Not good.)
B. Be forced to run short cranks compromising fit and personal performance.
I could keep going about it for awhile but I won't. I can say however that a road conversion can be great. I ride one almost everyday. In fact I have 2. Reasons why.........Fender and rack eyelets. I love fenders. They were both 27" and have been converted to 700c so they now have huge tire clearance. Almost zero maintenance. Reliability. I don't have to worry about it falling over and trashing my RD. I live in a flat part of town and don't need to shift. Trackstanding and skidding is fun. Blah, blah, blah. Difference is I picked up 2 frames with no downtube brazeons for shifters and kept every thing else. They are not typically desirable models either (Motobecane Mirage and Schwinn Sprint). Have you checked the prices of anything made of Reynold 531 lately? If the good frames keep getting destroyed what about the hobby ten years from now? Paint is one thing. Grinding things off is another. I know someone who tried to remove shifter bosses off of their frame and ruined it. The steel is kinda thin in the middle being butted and all............
Anyways........Why is this not in the FG&SS forum? And after reading my response here I notice I come off as rude or cranky again.........Sorry. It's late.