Vintage frame construction
 

I am new to vintage and road bikes, so forgive my ignorance. Having cracked a mountain frame, I am uneasy about an old frame that I don't understand. (current commuter=lifetime warranty; I get that...)

I am looking at mid-level, Japanese, 80's road/tour bikes, which seem affordable, and easy to find, fix or upgrade components(yes/no?)(Unlike maybe a Puegot?). Are they reasonably fast; enough to hang with the "C" group, 12-17 mph, I assume? I can pretty much do that on my tank commuter.

These bikes have frames like Champion 5 chromoly, and Fuji chromoly 441. What is hi-ten, chromoly, lugs, butted...? It's all steel to me. If I can't afford hand-made Italian, what else should I be looking for, if not Japanese? Can these kind of frames support my wookie-like frame? Will a tall frame automatically handle a Clyde?(was 330, still a clyde at 210...) Any suggestions on what to look for in steel frames, how to rate them, links, etc.? More general tips on a starter vintage road/tour also accepted and appreciated; does not have to be Japanese. thanks

Howdy!

This is a lug:
http://www.rivbike.com/images/static/upload/lugs_1.jpg

The older frames you are looking at should have horizontal dropouts. The better ones should look like this:
http://www.bikyle.com/images/BikesRo...DropOutRed.jpg
Notice how it is thick and has a deraileur hanger? The adjustment screw is a good sign too.

Butted simply means the frame tubes have different inside diameters. This makes them lighter usually and can add a rather noticeable improved ride quality. Frames with tube sets that say things like:
Double butted, 4130 chromoly, Reynolds, Columbus, Vitus and a whole slew of other names will typically be better than high-tensile or hi-ten. If you are new to road bikes the most important thing is fit. I'd venture to say it's way more important than frame quality and component level. Do some research and figure that stuff out before buying. Also when looking for an old roadbike the better ones have downtube shifters and all alloy components as a general rule of thumb.

Best of luck in your search!
Kelly D

Oh ya! And an old steel roadbike should hold ya just fine at your weight. Just make sure your wheels are in good order and check your tire pressure before every ride. And yes.....Road bikes are much easier to maintain speeds of 12-17 mph than "tanks".

Thanks, Kelly; a lot of good info for a rookie wookie. I have found many road frames in my range (about 63cm). But I am having trouble telling good from bad, with so many makers and models. So you would say any chromoly frame is a 'decent' frame? And was I correct to think that other compnents are easily upgraded?
thanks again.

Generally chromoly is gonna be decent. Looking at the dropouts is really the best way for a newb to tell the differance. Also shifter location. Downtube good.....Stem bad. For the most part anyways. Bar end shifters can be a good thing too. Brake levers with those silly levers that are generally called "suicide levers" are a pretty good indication of a low level bike. There are always exceptions to the rules.
As far as components are concerned. Yes. For the most part it is very easy to upgrade them if need be. This area gets a little fuzzy when dealing with older French bikes among others but Japanese bikes are pretty much all standardized so swap away! If you find a listing that interests you on Craigslist or something go ahead and post it up! The peeps in these parts are a friendly bunch and we'll be glad to help steer you in the right direction. Might be worth it to post in the ISO/WTB section here in C&V too. You never know! A member may be local to you and could help you get hooked up.

Kelly D

Partially correct. Many older Japanese bikes used the now obsolete JIS headset sizing, which utilized a smaller headset cup diameter (30.0) and a larger fork crown race diameter (27.0). Can be over came by a competent shop with reaming tools.

***dropouts...shifter location. Downtube good.....Stem bad..."suicide levers"
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Well, you talked me out of the Centurion Lemans(Ebay 320273983381). It sure had a nice look,but all the negatives you listed were there, too. About $200 with shipping, maybe more before it's over. I think patience will get me a better ride, and I always have the tank:
http://www.fisherbikes.com/bike/utopia

I really like the older steel Treks. They pop up here on Craigs List frequently. Get one with 700cm wheels, those give you the most tire options (versus 27 inch rims). The Treks usually have either Reynolds tubing or True Temper. Either of them are fine (I have both myself). I prefer index shifting, mid 80s or newer usually. Weight is reasonable/pretty good and you will have a bike that will hold/increase in value.

Geez.....I can't believe I missed that! I've had no less than 3 bikes get a headset swap in the last year that required a trip to the LBS for some reaming and cutting....