any help attaching rear rack? or: I'm an idiot
 

Hello,

well, I picked up an old spring-loaded clamp rear rack for 5$ off craigslist today, but I can't figure out how to put it on. The bottom attaches normally/easily, but the top part of the rack does not have seat stay clamps or anything which I recognize from normal racks. Instead of clamps, there is just a flat panel with two screw holes, and then another separate flat panel with matching holes.

Embarrassingly, I can't seem to figure out where this fits onto my bicycle. I thought maybe it would sort of clamp around both the stays, but the screws are too short for this application. Anybody have any ideas? I feel pretty silly and have spent a while trying to figure this out, with only failure to show for it.

thanks!

You're on the right (t)rack! The idea is that the separate plate fits in front of the seat stays and the front panel of the rack fits behind them, held together with the screws. You will probably need to bend the ends of the plate to fit around the front of the stays - that's how the short bolts supplied are long enough to fit. The problem with this fitting is firstly it's not very secure, plus the front of the rack can often f=slide forwards between the stays, also it can slip down and damage your paint. Instead, I cut a T-shaped bracket out of aluminium plate, with holes drilled to fit the rack at the top of the "T" and a larger hole at the bottom of the "T". This larger hole goes over the brake centre bolt in front of the brake bridge and is held in place by the brake nut and a washer. Or if you have rack bosses on your frame, simply use some metal strips to go between the bosses and the rack holes, one on each side. (Also works if you've got Canti or V brakes or no hole in the brake bridge). Alternatively, do the same but bolt the front ends of the strips to "P" clips around the stays, or to the seat binder bolt. With all of these ideas you'll need to bend the "T" bracket or metal strips to fit. It's just to anchor the front of the rack firmly so it doesn't move back and forwards, the legs should take most of the weight.

Hmm........Sounds like someone gave you to short of screws. Get some longer ones......And maybe wrap the seat stays with a piece of old innertube or electrical tape to help protect the finish. Got a pic of the rack so we're all on the same page? Is it a Pletscher or whatever those old school alloy ones were called?
Like this?
http://www.cyclofiend.com/working/im...hpPUoI1OPM.jpg

It was made by schwinn, I think, but it looks a lot like the pletscher. Unfortunately I don't have a picture, or a camera right now, but it is very similar to the photo you posted.

will the adhesive from eletrical tape damage the paint?

I might have a similar rack attachment. Two plates, one flat, one bent, straddle the seat stays. Bolts go through the rack and these plates. Here's a pic with simulated(!) seat stays. (I cut a slot in the front of the rack so I wouldn't have to remove the center-pull cable when the rack is installed/removed.)

Nice!

I've never seen it (electrical tape) damage paint. But it seems like it could trap moisture and dirt and possibly cause corrosion. But still........I haven't seen it. I have however seen damage from racks, clamps and kickstands by either:
*A ham fisted installer who over tightened it and dented and in some cases crush tubes.
*Things moving around and scratching the heck out of the paint thus causing rust.

I would be willing to bet that the "Schwinn Approved" racks were most likely built by Pletscher. You can get replacement hardware from them or from Wald. I use a small scrap of innertube for padding rather than the electrical tape. In this part of the country it gets overheated and oozes. I have also used scraps of fabric handle bar tape with passable results.

Aaron:)

Whenever I use electrical tape on the bike, I put down one layer upside down, then another layer sticky-side down. That way it's a protective layer, without adhering to the paint. Who knows if it's doing any good, but at least it's easy to remove cleanly.

Good idea eagleb! I guess if you cut twice the length you need and fold it in half (sticky side to sticky side, it's easier to work with as a single strip of tape and easier to cut to exact lengyj. I'm going to try this next time I mount a light!

Just be sure you offset the pieces, so you can stick the tape to itself as you wrap it around. Helps keep it snug. (hope that makes sense?)

Perfect, thanks!

I've had a rack like this that had a "T" shaped piece of sheet metal with holes at the 3 tips. The top two mount with the 2 bolts through the rack and braket and the bottom is secured with the brake bolt (to keep the rack from sliding up or down on the stays). And I have personally had electrical tape pull the paint off when I removed it so I use old innertubes now.

Sounds like one of my home-made alloy brackets! Obviously gtreat minds think alike - the "T" bracket on the brake bolt certainly works.

Good thoughts on careful use of electrical tape. I inocently covered a Reynolds 531 sticker with electrical tape to make my old Peugeot less attractive to the Metro vampires in Washington, DC, but when I removed it several years later I removed part of a previously perfect sticker. Groan! Padding all clamps is a good idea if you want to preserve the integrity of the paint. Cheers. tom